Assist feeding didnt work, snake thin

How old is this snake? I'm only assuming it is a young snake, under 100g. If that is the case,

I would get a 6qt tub from Walmart/Target/etc. If you have belly heat, put it under the tub so that the warm side will be 91F. (you will have to put some holes in the tub for air flow). Place two small hides in there if possible and a small water bowl.

Around 8pm, Get a frozen hopper mouse. Put it in a Ziploc baggie and submerge the baggie in warm water until the mouse is no longer frozen. Once it feels "squishy", put the baggie into a bowl of the hottest tap water you can get from the sink. let it sit for about 5 minutes. Now take the mouse out of the baggie and put it in the tub with the snake and leave it over night.

If this doesn't work, wait and try it again in two or three days. Just keep trying this until the snake eats.


I would not try to handle the snake at all until it eats at least two meals (on it's own). Moving to a smaller tub and raising the temperature will likely help you a great deal. that little snake just wants to feel warm and safe.

Very sorry to hear about Bob's wife! Sad news :(

Please note that I'm following her advice. My original set up was actually based on her other posts, so I was just caught off-guard by the tone. I guess I've been a social worker too long.

I'm aware that a mouse pup is too small. I'm considering her safety if I leave it in with her longer than the typical 15 minutes. What if I offer her appropriate size for 15 minutes, then leave the pup in for a few hours or even overnight if she refuses again? Thoughts?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by anthroterra

AM1GROSS- ty.

Deborah- Uh... thanks for the degrading reply. I was asking how to improve the husbandry, and my setup and such is similar to that described in your linked post and others like it "[COLOR=#333333]Whether you dislike tubs or have the perfect 10 gallons setup ready to go it does not matter what matter it to provide the optimum setup which means cramped."

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Degrading? More like reading something that's not here and being too sensitive?

Sure I could have tell you to keep doing what you were doing instead, it's working great :rolleyes:

It's not about how I feel (or even keep my animals) it's not about how YOU feel it's about what is PROVEN TO WORK method, you can take it or leave it, YOUR choice.

This little write up has help many overcome the issue you are experiencing including people that were even tube feeding their animal. Assist feeding (failed one at that) and a 57 grams animal failing to eat is not a good thing and you better find what works and do it fast.

OMG no wonder I haven't gotten a reply. What a terrible thing for Bob to go through.

I hope your girl pulls through. My baby female went 3 months without eating, I kept making adjustments until I discovered that she doesn't seem to like her tub as hot as my male does and she just needed to be left alone. She's still pretty picky but now I can get her to eat a decent meal 2/3 times a month.

Also the difference between tubs and tanks can be great. The setup has to be more than just cramped. If your tank had fluctuating temps and humidity that could be causing her to be uncomfortable and not eat.

And I don't think anyone is trying to be harsh or degrading. Everyone here just really loves these animals and wants them to be healthy. Good luck! I hope to add a banana to my little snake family one day soon.

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Originally Posted by anthroterra

[/COLOR]86*/76*

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This might be your problem - I always aim for 92f inside the hot hide and 82f inside the cool end hide. I'd try raising those temps a little and see if it makes any difference.

Also with F/T defrosting it slowly near their enclosure seems to let mine know to expect food and makes a big difference. Hope this helps.


dr del

I indeed took Deborah's tone wrong at first and felt like what I was being told was that I was doing *everything* wrong, which was not what she said. I shouldn't read posts so late at night lol.

I've seen posts on choosing proper prey size and frozen vs live, but not much on how often to offer after the first week, when to try switching type if they refuse for long periods, etc. Is there one out there I'm not finding? 15 minutes seems to be the recommended time limit for live prey and overnight for F/T. The setup is being corrected, but I'm still unsure about these concerns.

I have one young snake here who simply will not strike unless the prey item has had its head dipped in boiling water and is practically steaming still Hun. May be worth hearing it a tad more xx


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Chiquita refused live again after 1 week in the new setup, but I'm happy to report that she ate a fuzzy rat tonight after running away from it for a half hour. Woohoo! Thanks for your suggestions, all :)

i agree with the others, the enviornment must be spot on, and the more you fuss them them the less they will have a positive food response. I have a girl that is very humidity sensative, and if it drops below 50% she won't eat, so i am ultra careful with her temps, humidity. She also won't eat ft. or any color rat other then white. She is just an ultra picky eater, but she is young, and very sweet, and i really love her, so i cater to her. Your little noodle might be just picky. Get those temps, and humidity spot on, then if its used to live feed live, even though a little small, a fuzzy rat every 5 days. good luck.