About ready to give up!!!

Ok, thanks so much!! First snake and I was worried!!

She cruises but also looks for a way out, so I thought she was super upset.

She's sleeping outside her cold hut right now....behind it, so I thought something was wrong.

Again, thank you!!!!

Like everyone said everything will be ok. The light would work with it on its own dimming thermostat but you don't need it since your temps are around what they should be. If it ever gets cold in your house where your cool side won't stay 75+ you can use a lamp dimmer with the light over the cool side to keep it in range.

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Originally Posted by Yzmasmom

Without the extra light the hot side is 84-85

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Under the substrate?
Shouldn't be.
If your snake wants more heat it will move the substrate OR you have too much substrate.

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Originally Posted by PitOnTheProwl

Under the substrate?
Shouldn't be.
If your snake wants more heat it will move the substrate OR you have too much substrate.

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No, at substrate top level. Glass level is 91-94.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Yzmasmom

The thermostat keeps the mat between 91 and 95. But on top of the bedding it only reaches 85, so I put the extra light on it.. it's not the thermostat, it's the ambient air that keeps changing in here..

So a month in the high 80s is ok?

She's got a Zoomed Hygrotherm. It does humidity as well.

Right now she's at 91.2 and 82.4 but in an hour she could be at 89 and 80....

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How much bedding so you have? Mine only have maybe half an inch. Go by the bottom temp, I'd get rid of the heat light. And is your thermostat probe and temp probe taped under the tank sandwiched between the tank and the uth?

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Go buy a Sterilite tub and use paper towel for substrate. You'll have better heat transfer and fewer temp swings.

Your temp readings sound fine. You don't want the top of the bedding to reach 90F because that means the glass surface will be 100F+. A surface temp on the glass of 91-94F is a bit hot but since you've got substrate to block it off it should be fine. Even if she pushes the bedding aside, 91-94F won't burn her. I would potentially think about lowering the temps so they fall a bit closer to 90F but your current readings sound great.

As far as for the ambient heat there's no reason to ditch it if you don't want to, just get another thermostat to control the lamp. I would honestly suggest a CHE over a light, since you can leave it on 24/7 without disrupting their day/night schedule. If you keep the ambient heat, whether you choose to stay with the light or go with a CHE, it needs a dimming and pulse-proportional thermostat. ON/OFF thermostats can lower the lifespan of a CHE, and a light definitely needs dimming so that it's not just repeatedly turning off and on.

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Originally Posted by CloudtheBoa

Your temp readings sound fine. You don't want the top of the bedding to reach 90F because that means the glass surface will be 100F+.

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It all depends on how much substrate you use. For the ones I use uth for I run at 93 at the bottom of the PVC cages and the top of my substrate stays 89-90.



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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Yzmasmom

No, at substrate top level. Glass level is 91-94.

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Then you are fine.
I you feel you must use something overhead then use it on the cool side.

Don't know why everyone over complicates heating.........

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Originally Posted by CloudtheBoa

ON/OFF thermostats can lower the lifespan of a CHE

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Actually it lowers the life of a light. Doesn't do much of anything to a CHE.
I have several that have been going close to five years now on my dragons.