Questions about AP cages and RHPs.

I have pretty well decided on a t10 and t12, with 80 watt RHPs from reptile basics, and I will go ahead and get the basking shelf for the carpet python. If i can't keep it at a safe temperature I will remove it.

This thermostat is from reptile basics and I have a suspicion that it just a rebranded herpstat:
http://www.reptilebasics.com/ve-200

Does anyone know if it is?

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Originally Posted by Twisted_Angel

I have pretty well decided on a t10 and t12, with 80 watt RHPs from reptile basics, and I will go ahead and get the basking shelf for the carpet python. If i can't keep it at a safe temperature I will remove it.

This thermostat is from reptile basics and I have a suspicion that it just a rebranded herpstat:
http://www.reptilebasics.com/ve-200

Does anyone know if it is?

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I like tall for carpets but Dennis has been going about things fine as well. If you are worried about a shelf skip it and make perches. Heat will get to the floor and you will have different levels of heat up on the perches and below them if you want to make a display cage you can wrap the perches in vines it will look great. I will post pictures of my setup later if you'd like to see what it looks like. I use a radiant heat panel from Proroducts it works very well. All of this depends on what you want out of your caging. Great displays, or fast efficient and smaller. Both options are fine. If you are going with a shorter cage the shelf is an option for more floor space, but some properly spaced perches will provide a similar experience. Perches will allow light and heat to reach the floor. Also, a strip LED light from a hardware store will be nicer than a Flo light and probably less money. I'm on a cell phone now. If I remember I will post pics and info when I get home.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Twisted_Angel

This thermostat is from reptile basics and I have a suspicion that it just a rebranded herpstat:
http://www.reptilebasics.com/ve-200

Does anyone know if it is?

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It is absolutely not a rebranded Herpstat, the ve-200 though is a good thermostat. The ve-200 is pulse proportional or on/off and has no additional settings really. The Herpstat can be set to dimming, pulse or on/off and has a ton more settings.

Since you are buying 2 different cages that have different heights you will need 2 thermostats or a ve-300x2 or Herpstat 2. You do have the same heating device but you will need the same exact cages in order to only use 1 thermostat. If you plan on stacking the cages you will need a Herpstat 2 or ve-300x2 bc the rhp on the bottom cage will heat into the top cage. So make sure you put rhp in the same place in both cages so the bottom cage will help heat the top.


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Vivarium Electronics makes a good stat. I have one but I still prefer my Herpstats.

You will be able to put your cage on a 4' x 2' table if it is a quality table. I have a table made by Lifetime that will hold a lot of weight. I would put a sheet of wood that is slightly larger than the area of the table top on the top of it so your cage doesn't over hang on any of the edges.

If you really enjoy realistic caging, I would go with perches and consider a background to spice thins up.

This coastal mix is over 6 feet long and easily fits and seems to enjoy this 48" x 24" x 24" cage. She uses every bit of it at different times of the day and night.

http://i772.photobucket.com/albums/y...a/IMG_3278.jpg

In this photo the daytime LED strip light is toward the back and behind the RHP, well half of it, and the other half is not. It is centered in the cage but obviously the RHP intrudes into the center of the cage as well. The other light is an Arcadia LED Moonlight.

I set up all 3 of my cages similar to this and enjoy them immensely. Part of the hobby for me is the display factor. I only have a collection of 3 so it allows me to spend a bit of time with decor.
http://i772.photobucket.com/albums/y...a/IMG_2638.jpg


As far as the climate zones, the snake can climb into different zones, and as I said earlier, the perches do not block all of the heat going to the floor like a shelf may. However a shelf, especially for a more terrestrial species is a bonus because it is another level of ground floor.

You will still have a cool and warm side on the floor with perches, and "ceiling" offers vertical areas of climate. The snake can choose where to lie, or perch.

When using perches, spacing them properly helps the snake distribute body weight more evenly. With a heavier species like a boa constrictor, it is more important to do so if you want to see them use their perches. Too much pressure in one area isn't as comfortable for them as being spread out.

http://i772.photobucket.com/albums/y...a/IMG_3277.jpg


As Dennis M stated, you can use a cage with less ceiling and enjoy success too.

The top cage here is actually for our Royal. 48" x 24" x 14". I think if I were to get a carpet that got very large, my current female could easily go into the top cage here. However she could still grow another foot or two.

The boa constrictor has very thick perches here on the bottom and needs this 48" x 30" x 20".

http://i772.photobucket.com/albums/y...a/IMG_2657.jpg

Ultimately, you won't go wrong in choosing a shelf or perches. Personal preference, time, space, and number of animals come into play, finances play a role as well.

Animal Plastics makes a good cage. I would choose the sliding doors if I were to buy an AP unit.

My cages are Pro-Line from Constrictors NW. I know folks that have both AP and Pro-line and they are happy with both brands.

When you get set up I'm sure there are a number of folks that can guide and assist you here.

Good luck.

Sidetrack for a minute- @Gio, I want to put backgrounds in my AP cages but they would cover the ventilation holes in the back....any suggestions?

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Originally Posted by xcjumper

Sidetrack for a minute- @Gio, I want to put backgrounds in my AP cages but they would cover the ventilation holes in the back....any suggestions?

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Enough air goes between the cracks of the doors. Covering the ventilation holes are fine. Plus theres sill vent slots in the sides. All my vision cages and my ap T10 have the vent holes covered to help with humidity.

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Originally Posted by chrid16371

Enough air goes between the cracks of the doors. Covering the ventilation holes are fine. Plus theres sill vent slots in the sides. All my vision cages and my ap T10 have the vent holes covered to help with humidity.

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I appreciate you answering this. I don't have AP cages but have heard they have side vents. I have Pro-Line cages. On that same note, my tallest cage of the 3 has more covered up venting in the back than the other 2 cages. Because of that it holds humidity much longer but still breathes.
Perfect response above.

Thanks Chrid and Gio! I didn't think about the front doors. I was concerned because my humidity is really high in my AP cage but is slowly coming down (and I mean slowly!). But I want the pretty background especially for my new larger cage I have coming for my Carpet.

To the OP, Vivarium Electronics is not a rebadged Herpstat. It is it's own company. Herpstats are actually Spyder Robotics. My vote is go for the Herpstat. I got a Herpstat 1 and Herpstat 2 and next month I will be ordering a Herpstat 6 so I don't have to worry about a T-stat for awhile as I'll have the 2 and 1 as backups and I have 2 Hydrofarms laying around too lol. Think i'm going to order a 3rd AP T10 this week so I can make a clean sweep on the cages for my gals and probably throw the ProLine up on CL. Either way though, VE or Herpstats both work well. I have even been hearing some good reviews of the new to stateside ISTAT t-stats. Heard mixed reviews about them from EU guys but a few guys I've talked to here seem to like them.

Just set up my T11 a few weeks ago... still waiting on my first shed since moving my two BP's into the divided habitat. I ordered it around the 1st of the year.. it Arrived near the end of April. It is located on a custom built/stained entertainment center that we ordered with other furniture in late 2015 so the "stand" matches the rest of the suite's furniture. Glass sliding doors. Lock. No basking shelf. Ordered the LED strip in Red. I have the divider in the middle, two 40 watt Pro Products RHP's, one in each "inside" corner. Heat and humidity monitored/controlled by a Herpstat 4. The T11 is 18Hx24Dx48W... its partitioned into two 18x24x24 cages, each with two to three hides and some vertical relief... and big water bowls in one corner. The Herpstat gives me 88 degrees in the hot corner during the day and 80 degrees there at night. Temp probe lays on top of the bedding, directly under the respective RHP's. I installed the RHP's using gorilla glue on the back face of the RHP's and then I through-drilled the Enclosure top via the RHP's mounting hole and used a single pop rivet to ensure the panel doesn't fall. I've never.. EVER.. had a gorilla glue failure, so the pop rivet is simply belt and suspenders. I will get a flexible drill shaft if I want to get up close to the divider and through-drill the other hole.. but its low on my list.

I'm still finding the sweet spot with humidity. I previously had a glass cages with screen tops and basking lamps/UTH for heat. Previously the glass case with screen top required lots of screen being covered, and a mister/humidifier being piped in to keep humidity up, particularly during shed times.. The AP cage with cypress mulch goes to 98% humidity at first.. a month later its just now getting to 75%.. my next bedding will be a little drier, and I will just bump the humidity when shed starts either by spritzing it a bit, or tossing some fresh mulch in. No supplemental humidification used thus far.

My habitats are not complete yet.. and will have some sort of perch arrangement devised that will allow them or their prey to climb in the cage. The glass cages had a vine that my adult was fond of hanging along... I DID have a fake plastic log in the adult's cage that was awesome looking but was just hollow enough for him to go completely INTO but not get out of. We had to cut it apart to get him out as he wasn't appearing able to back out. Will be sealing the hole on the next fake log.

So far: The LED crapped out on day 1 and went from steady on to continuously pulsing. There are no user controls to adjust this. I think it was a faulty power supply. Just haven't gotten around to getting another one yet, but if the replacement craps out I will do my own led lighting install. Holds heat and humidity like a champ. I will need to revise my procedures to adapt to the humidity issues and keep it on target.

If I order another AP enclosure, I will likely not be using the LED lights. I would otherwise do it all the same again: Glass sliders, lock, RHP's

Not an expert.. just a few steps above noob, but sharing what I've done, based on what I learned on this forum myself.