Right now your priority is for your animal to eat not let it get worse to the point of no return so F/T is not your priority. A well established animal (an animal that eats with consistency) will switch a lot easier than one that is not. Do not offer more than once a week, the more you offer the more it will lead to a refusal.
Fuzzies are also too small a hopper is the size you are looking for. If the animal is a fresh hatched a month or a little more it is not a consistent feeder and you MUST do everything you can to get it on track ASAP, at that age/size things can go down the hill pretty fast if not addressed.
Provide proper temps 24/7 with minimal fluctuation and no night drop, smaller enclosure, no handling, those are the 3 most important things. (I highly encourage you to make the changes I suggested above.
Also VERY IMPORTANT: BUY a thermostat and place the UTH at the bottom of the tub, there is also no need for additional light a darker environment is preferable anyway as those animals are nocturnal. Remember that without a thermostat you will end up with a burned snake whether the UTH is on the side and a reptile carpet is placed between the side or bottom of the enclosure and the snake.
Ah, they were feeding Gannon f/t at the pet place with no issue so we didnt want to suddenly switch an animal that has never been fed live to live. But if that is the way to go then we'll get some live (hoppers). She already has a thermostat and a UTH under the tub. She had those from the beginning. This is not her first snake in general. Just her first ball python. =]The temps are not fluctuating now that we switched to a tub. The temps *were* fluctuating in the viv. And it was getting up to 115 F (which is what the other site said was optimal based on their C to F conversion chart. which we now know was garbage.). The temps are now stabilized where they need to be and the humidity is *much* better. We are wondering if the temperature/humidity issue may have been what caused her to go off feeding (again, she fed well and regularly before we brought her home). Do you think we should just give her a week or two in her new setup and go from there?
03-20-2016, 03:23 PM
M.P.C
Your humidity is probably still off, those stick on guages are useless and inaccurite
03-20-2016, 03:32 PM
GoingPostal
I would ditch the light which may be stressing the snake out more. Maybe bump up the warm side to 88-90 if you can. Get a tight fitting hide in there, no half logs and maybe crumple up some newspaper to clutter the tub up. Are you checking temps on the substrate where the snake is and directly on the tub warm side with a temp gun, not just a probe or gauge type thermometer?
03-20-2016, 03:50 PM
gavindestroys
Re: BP Won't Eat
The humidity is as high as it is because I was used to spraying the viv heavily, so therefore the first time I sprayed the new enclosure, I sprayed too much. I have yet to spray it again. I'm letting it drop back down into the 50's. The issue with feeding predates the hood light, and she seems to be a-okay with it being there. She's also used to there being light in her enclosure as well, being I bought her from a pet store.
03-20-2016, 06:07 PM
Igby
UPDATE: Finally ate
03-20-2016, 06:08 PM
gavindestroys
Re: BP Won't Eat
Assist fed. Also acts like she has head wobble. xD
03-20-2016, 07:33 PM
Stewart_Reptiles
Re: BP Won't Eat
Quote:
Originally Posted by gavindestroys
Assist fed. Also acts like she has head wobble. xD
Why assist feed? This is jumping the gun and should only be done as a last resort when everything has failed. Fixing your husbandry as suggested is getting on the right track assisting is not.
03-20-2016, 07:36 PM
M.P.C
Ok but your sprayig to raise humidity numbers you actually dont have an accurite read on, thats why im telling you that stick on guage is useless, it can be reading 50% and actually is more like 20% or could be even higher then what it reads.
