Won't eat update

D- I don't keep BPs anymore, and every snake is different, but I don't think the enclosure is the issue. A little more clutter would be cool but I don't know if that's what's causing him not to eat. I don't believe your ambient humidity is a problem either but you may want to boost it when he sheds. You said you have 2 hides and the temps are dialed in. Maybe he's just a slow starter or perhaps he's just doing what BPs do :). I'd try a small live feeder and see if he takes that. If he refuses I'd keep offering food every 7-10 days until he catches on. The hunger always wins in the end regardless of whether the animal is in a 1 gallon or 1000 gallon tank. I haven't seen a healthy snake starve itself to death yet.

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Originally Posted by Sensei345

Where are you getting your readings from? Is it from the very bottom under the substrate by probe? The reason I ask is because I have only ever used two hygro/thermo meters at the top of either side of my tank and most times my humidity is reading between 30%-35%, higher during a shed as i mist more often. I have never seen any signs of any respiratory problems at that reading and each shed he goes through is one full piece, like a balled up sock. Thats just relative humidity though. I personally find it easier to go by the clumping substrate rule of thumb. Basically just keep your substrate moist enough that if you squeeze it, its able to hold its shape but not leak a whole bunch of water. Also you could try setting his/her water dish on the warm side of his tank to increase humidity.


You will definitely want more objects such as silk vines/plants, fake stone objects such as pillars or outcrops. If you would like I can try to get a picture of my tank setup for you to see, possibly give you some ideas as to what you can do to change the layout of your tank a bit. I have only had my BP reject a feeding once and that was only because the feeder had gotten some freezer-burn.

The other thing you could try is live food (if you haven't already), it may trigger that feeding response better than the F/T. If you do try this though, NEVER leave your snake unattended with live food as it could result in injury or even death for your snake.

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the readings are from the acurite digital thermometer seen in the picture and the readings on the temperatures are what the herpstat is set for. I live in Laporte tx so low humidity won't be a problem.
Back to the temperature readings, everyone hails a infared thermometer as the holy grail for temp readings but unless you spend som money on one of the high end models their accuracy is + or - 4 degrees f. That's no good.

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Originally Posted by EL-Ziggy

D- I don't keep BPs anymore, and every snake is different, but I don't think the enclosure is the issue. A little more clutter would be cool but I don't know if that's what's causing him not to eat. I don't believe your ambient humidity is a problem either but you may want to boost it when he sheds. You said you have 2 hides and the temps are dialed in. Maybe he's just a slow starter or perhaps he's just doing what BPs do :). I'd try a small live feeder and see if he takes that. If he refuses I'd keep offering food every 7-10 days until he catches on. The hunger always wins in the end regardless of whether the animal is in a 1 gallon or 1000 gallon tank. I haven't seen a healthy snake starve itself to death yet.

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Im with you ziggy. I think eventually he will eat the f/t offering, after all he has taken one during all of this and I really hate to give into offering live if I don't plan on continuing with that.
On a side note, shag completed his shed last night and also consumed a rat pup. This is the first rat I have ever fed anything. Sadly Edith refused a fuzzy mouse even though she seemed quite interested in it but I'm not too worried because she has only been with me since Wednesday.