New user with new python

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by BCS

I am not sure but every 6 weeks may be a little too little. I have never heard of a ball python being offered less then 2 weeks. If he refuses then it is so, but I think he should be offered food more often. Ball pythons do not need a light or UV lighting at all. Light can actually stress them out and ball pythons do not make good decorative animals to even need a light. If the room has enough natural light then a light is not needed. Ball pythons hide for a good portion of the day, making the UV lighting completely useless.

Things to look for before purchasing, especially if this ball python is coming from an owner and not a breeder would be any health issues. Mouth looks nice and pink. Scales are healthy. Check for scaring especially along the belly. Listen to his breathing and make sure there are no popping noises. Check for mites (on the snake, in the heat pits and you may see it in the bedding) and check that the owner has kept his cage clean.

Ball pythons need to have belly heat, which means you will need a heat pad. I am not sure what you mean by "heater" whether that is a ceramic bulb heater or pad but you need the heat pad regardless. Along with a heat pad you will need some sort of thermostat. There are many offered on amazon. The more accurate ones will be more expensive.

Being eighteen years old, he is definitely not old. He could live up to 30+ years so be sure you understand that even though he is older, it will still be a very long commitment. Good luck with your new friend and post pictures once and if you get him.

---

Ball pythons dont need belly heat had one for a year always on ceramic no heat mat never missed a feed in brilliant health, in the wild heat comes from the sun which is above not below

Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ChelseaV

I'm going to strongly agree with what the others stated regarding the light fixtures. In the wild ball pythons get their heat source from the warm burrows they hide in, not the sun above. So belly heat is essential for healthy digestion and a healthy snake. All of my snakes aren't even active during the day, unless it's feeding day than most will come out when they smell the rats. I only provide natural sunlight through the Windows of the room they are in and this is only to mimic a natural light cycle for them.

Unless the snake is consistently refusing food, feeding every 6 weeks definitely does not sound like enough. I feed all mine every 5-7 days generally unless they refuse, which I have one girl whose currently in a 2 week food strike. Also, keep in mind all my snakes are still pretty young and still growing. So for a mature snake like this one, I'd say maybe once a week would be fine and if he refuses, just wait a week and try again. As for feeding live, that's a personal preference. I feed all mine live because in my opinion it's more natural for the snake to hunt it prey but if you continue to feed live, please please make sure you monitor the process! A small rat has the ability to do some serious damage with those teeth of theirs. In fact, I'd rather be bitten by a snake than a rat lol

Make sure your provide two hides, one on the warm end and one on the cool end. My favorite expression I've heard on this forum "a hiding bp is a happy bp!" lol
Also, make sure to invest in a quality thermostat for the heat pad.

Hopefully some of this helped!

---

Still pretty sure the sun will warm the burrows lol

Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Tyson88

Still pretty sure the sun will warm the burrows lol

Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

---

That may be the case but it doesn't change the fact that ball pythons are not basking snakes. They do not lie on top of logs or rocks in order to obtain a heat source. They hide in burrows in the wild and in captivity they hide in the provided hide. So unless your ceramic heater is hot enough to heat through the hide you have provided for your snake and warm him to appropriate levels in order to maintain proper health and digestion than it is highly recommended for all new owners, such as the OP, to use a regulated UTH.

That is why hides have holes in point is ceramic is the more natural one. Newbies get your ceramics 100x better and safer 😊

Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Tyson88

That is why hides have holes in point is ceramic is the more natural one.

---

:confusd::confusd::confusd::confusd: What......

Pretty sure the general consensus throughout the ball python hobby is that back/belly heat is the most recommended source of heat.

If I'm wrong and ceramic heat is the best option, than I'd love if you could provide a link to the information where you are pulling these facts from.

- - - Updated - - -

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by PitOnTheProwl

:confusd::confusd::confusd::confusd: What......

---

Lol, I said the same thing.

Its the cheapest and easiest for people with racks etc. Doesnt make it the best

Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

Again, can you provide links to the sources of where you got your information from? I've read numerous articles and information that is conflicting with what you are stating. If we are to give the OP and all new owners the best, most relevant information possible, it is necessary to be able to provide credible background sources and not base any advice given off of our own personal opinions.

Overhead heat sources, such as heat lamps or CHE's, are not recommended for any enclosure where the snake requires high humidity as they permit too much warm, humid air to escape out the top; the heat source must be separated from the animal and the air escapes around or through the fixture. A head source like an RHP works since the top of the enclosure is solid and the RHP is physically in the enclosure, but it's not really hot enough to burn your snake.

Heat pads or UTH's are recommended not necessarily because overhead versus belly heat is better, but because it's ideal for snakes that need high humidity in the enclosure.

Actually if you do the math Tyson, whole room heating is the cheapest when done correctly. :gj:

They don't need to have belly heat and racks are better for us once your collection starts to grow.