Pros/cons of tortoise ownership?

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Originally Posted by John1982

The statement stands, their high mortality rate is compounded in the hands of a novice because they do take more attention to detail and are much less forgiving of keeper errors.

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Yes, a novice keeper who is uneducated in proper tortoise care does compound mortality rates. However, as the OP mentioned earlier, there is a TON of outdated, misleading and just plain incorrect information on the internet regarding basic tortoise care.

But, substandard breeding practices still stand as a major hurdle to a thriving hatchling. Many breeders will have dozens of mating pairs of torts producing large clutches multiple times a year. Frequently these babies are grouped together, and fed communally in a large enclosure. If care isn't taken to soak hatchlings, and maintain humidity standards, it is very possible to receive a dehydrated hatchling that wasn't eating.

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Originally Posted by JoshSloane

If care isn't taken to soak hatchlings, and maintain humidity standards, it is very possible to receive a dehydrated hatchling that wasn't eating.

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Honestly, soaking is only required if your environment is substandard. Them wild ones don't have someone placing them in a tub of water every day and you never see pyramiding there. It's a good practice if you're unsure but I think dialing in your parameters better is a healthier remedy longterm. Seems we both agree on one thing especially, buy from someone who is reputable and offering well started tortoises. Buying a yearling makes it harder for a seller to deceive you though. They all look pretty perfect right out of the egg but if they look good at a year - the seller is doing something right.

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Originally Posted by John1982

Honestly, soaking is only required if your environment is substandard. Them wild ones don't have someone placing them in a tub of water every day and you never see pyramiding there. It's a good practice if you're unsure but I think dialing in your parameters better is a healthier remedy longterm. Seems we both agree on one thing especially, buy from someone who is reputable and offering well started tortoises. Buying a yearling makes it harder for a seller to deceive you though. They all look pretty perfect right out of the egg but if they look good at a year - the seller is doing something right.

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The thing is that at least for sulcatas, they hatch during the rainy season, turning their environment into a marshy wetland. Hatchlings typically inhabit small burrows that frequently have small pools of standing water, resulting in natural 'soaks' and extremely high humidity.

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Originally Posted by JoshSloane

The thing is that at least for sulcatas, they hatch during the rainy season, turning their environment into a marshy wetland. Hatchlings typically inhabit small burrows that frequently have small pools of standing water, resulting in natural 'soaks' and extremely high humidity.

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Easily replicated, even with a tortoise table. :gj:

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Originally Posted by John1982

Easily replicated, even with a tortoise table. :gj:

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In a dry state like CO the ambient humidity will never be able to come close to the necessary 70-80% with a tort table.

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Originally Posted by JoshSloane

In a dry state like CO the ambient humidity will never be able to come close to the necessary 70-80% with a tort table.

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There are no rules against covering the top of a tortoise table. A false bottom is also good to have. It might not be needed but starting with one is a lot less work than adding it if you find you're having to make tortoise soup often. A couple inches of drainage layer, some mesh on top, substrate above the mesh. Really, so long as you reach your goals in the burrows/hides where your youngster is going to spend at least half of their time, you'll be fine.

A closed chamber sounds good for hitting humidity levels easily but terrible for everything else. I've always been a fan of high air exchange though and try to reach my goals with as much ventilation as possible. I'm in Florida though, everything humidity related is much less hassle here. If I lived in CO I'd probably turn my reptile room into a jungle with a bunch of water loving houseplants to help raise the ambient humidity in that room, then go from there.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by John1982

There are no rules against covering the top of a tortoise table. A false bottom is also good to have. It might not be needed but starting with one is a lot less work than adding it if you find you're having to make tortoise soup often. A couple inches of drainage layer, some mesh on top, substrate above the mesh. Really, so long as you reach your goals in the burrows/hides where your youngster is going to spend at least half of their time, you'll be fine.

A closed chamber sounds good for hitting humidity levels easily but terrible for everything else. I've always been a fan of high air exchange though and try to reach my goals with as much ventilation as possible. I'm in Florida though, everything humidity related is much less hassle here. If I lived in CO I'd probably turn my reptile room into a jungle with a bunch of water loving houseplants to help raise the ambient humidity in that room, then go from there.

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Ah yes, in a warm humid climate like Florida things get a lot easier. Cold and dry CO makes it difficult. My closed chamber has some minimal ventilation, and has full air exchange daily during feeding time.