Vote for BP.Net for the 2013 Forum of the Year! Click here for more info.

» Site Navigation

» Home
 > FAQ

» Online Users: 787

0 members and 787 guests
No Members online
Most users ever online was 47,180, 07-16-2025 at 05:30 PM.

» Today's Birthdays

None

» Stats

Members: 76,067
Threads: 249,217
Posts: 2,572,780
Top Poster: JLC (31,651)
Welcome to our newest member, Inky Clouds

Belly Heat Temperature

Printable View

  • 12-13-2004, 07:17 PM
    epilover
    Hmm, i'd agree with you there, but the same confounding variable comes into play with placing the sensor outside the tank. There you have a heat buildup between the UTH and the table 1/4in below it (using corner spacers around the tank to elevate it slightly). Not to mention, the ambient room temperature would then also come into play. There's no real "weight" over the sensor under the lizard liner, as nothing weight bearing is on top of it. Even if my bp were lying directly on it, he weighs 1/2lb and maybe 5-10% of that weight would be concentrated directly on the 1/2 dime size sensor.
  • 12-13-2004, 07:22 PM
    epilover
    Sorry, let me clarify a bit:

    The sensor over the UTH is a thermometer sensor, NOT a thermostat probe. I'm controlling the wattage of the UTH with a dimmer.
  • 12-13-2004, 07:24 PM
    Adam_Wysocki
    wow dude, you're thinking about this WAY too much!

    I put the probe on the heat tape and set the thermostat to 94 degrees .... 200 snakes, 320 tubs .... snakes move from hot spot to cool as needed ..... works great for me!

    -adam
  • 12-13-2004, 07:28 PM
    epilover
    Any other input from others would be appreciated.

    Thanks for the info adam.
  • 12-13-2004, 07:33 PM
    kavmon
    hey all, you can't really regulate the heat source with a dimmer. the dimmer only varies the voltage to the heat source. your temps will go up and down with the room/house temps. installing thermostat probes real close or on the heat source will prevent it from becoming too hot. you need a good thermometer to double check the temps inside your cage and adjust the thermostat to get your desired temp.


    vaughn
  • 12-13-2004, 07:37 PM
    Adam_Wysocki
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by epilover
    Sorry, let me clarify a bit:

    The sensor over the UTH is a thermometer sensor, NOT a thermostat probe. I'm controlling the wattage of the UTH with a dimmer.


    OHHHHH!!! .... ok, makes more sense now .... If the UTH is on the "basking end" of the cage, adjust the rheostat until the temp is 90 - 95 degrees. I prefer around 94, but you'll have to figure out what works best for your snake.

    -adam
  • 12-13-2004, 07:55 PM
    epilover
    Ok, well, i moved the sensor to the UTH on the outside the tank as you suggested. Should I keep it around 95?

    As far as the thermostats are concerned, I already have a herpstat proportional thermostat controlling my ambient heat lamps. Are you saying I need to blow another $100 for a proportional thermostat for my belly heat? I can't see how a UTH's temp would vary nearly as much as heat lamps would in relation to room temps.
  • 12-13-2004, 08:00 PM
    kavmon
    can you describe your setup? i would try to ditch the overhead light and get a heat source big enough to keep your temps(belly heat for a bp). if you have a prop. stat that should be fine and the only one you need.


    vaughn
  • 12-13-2004, 08:00 PM
    Adam_Wysocki
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by epilover
    Ok, well, i moved the sensor to the UTH on the outside the tank as you suggested. Should I keep it around 95?

    I suggested that when I thought you were talking about a thermostat. For a thermometer, the probe should be inside the cage. You should keep it at whatever temp works for you and your snake. Hot spots for a ball python are normally 90-95 degrees.

    Quote:

    Originally Posted by epilover
    As far as the thermostats are concerned, I already have a herpstat proportional thermostat controlling my ambient heat lamps. Are you saying I need to blow another $100 for a proportional thermostat for my belly heat? I can't see how a UTH's temp would vary nearly as much as heat lamps would in relation to room temps.

    I'm not "saying" that you need to "blow" anything. What I am saying is that having a thermostat on each side is hands down the best way to ensure that your snake has optimal temperature. It's your decision how much is "too much" for the proper care of your snake.

    -adam
  • 12-13-2004, 08:13 PM
    epilover
    Ok ok, i'm not looking to start any kind of argument. I'm just trying to figure out what's best for my bp, and unfortunately, my budget as well. I am ordering a second herpstat thermostat for my belly heat. As for right now, until it comes, i'm working with a thermometer + dimmer switch setup for my UTH. So i've got the sensor affixed to the UTH outside the tank, and I'm aiming to keep it reading around 97 degrees. When the herpstat arrives, I should attatch the probe to this same location, and set it to 97, is that all correct?

    I know this is getting a bit long-winded, but I just wanna get this figured out right for the sake of my bp. I was horrified when I hooked my temp sensor up to the UTH and it read 115 degrees. No wonder he's never laying on the ground over the UTH, it was way too hot before. I'm just glad I caught this before any real damage could be done, and am so gratefuly that my bp didn't get burned. I routinely would feel the substrate over the UTH with my hand and it felt comfortably warm, but I guess you can't detect 115 degrees with your hand. I know better now, and am doing everything I can to get this right before something goes wrong.
Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v4.2.1