Wow this is wrong

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Originally Posted by nightrainfalls

We might start with the unregulated UTH. How many posts have we seen on this forum about burnt snakes?

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This is the only thing that bothered me at all. Would be nice if they included a thermostat on their list of must-have items.

The rest didn't bother me. Some is pointless, some is sub-optimal, but it's all workable with some slight modifications.

Those articles are why people come to forums like this - to get better information. To get help where the pet store can't help without costing bookoo bucks. It's helped me at least.

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Originally Posted by Eric Alan

If you don't mind my asking, what did you find so egregiously terrible and misleading about the article?

Also, to clear up any confusion, Drs. Foster & Smith is an online pet retailer (owned by Petco as of earlier this month) - not a veterinarian.

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Wow DrF&S got bought out, huh? I remember when I was a kid my mom used to get their mail order catalogs (I think she purchased all her shots through them and vaxed her persians herself). Idk why, but I loved looking at the fancy pet stuff and day dreaming about spoiling my critters with useless crap, lol.

From the way the information is worded the newbie keeper is left with the impression that an unregulated UTH will provide a hot spot of 90*F.

Also it says at the end that 2 ball pythons can be housed in the same enclosure.

I think a really important thing to point out is, most of the people looking to these guides ARE total newbs. The article says the hot spot should be at 90, but it doesn't discuss HOW to regulate it, and a first timer may make the common mistake of assuming the heatpads are set up right out of the box. Or worse, they'll think all heat is created equal and buy a hot rock for inside the enclosure. D: The plant clutter looks nice, but two appropriate sized hides is cheaper and easier (and probably better for cleaning). Screen top tanks can have their humidity managed, but the article doesn't discuss options for it, or even tell potential buyers that in could be a problem. So yeah, the set up will work with some fiddling, but the new snake owner won't necessarily know that, or even how to start adjusting and fixing problems that will pop up with the suggestions here. Like it's been pointed out, this is a care sheet designed to sell products, not optimize the care of the snake. It's just worded so that you think that's what you're doing. Not wrong, but some what dishonest.

In my opinion, if you believe everything you read on the web. Well you get what you deserve. There are multiple sources of information to be had. And your already on the web if you were reading that. Even on here a contributor named Skiploder just posted information on feeding and other husbandry issues, that made a lot of people think about how they were going about things. It's like when someone asks a question on here about a ball. And someone else answers, well my blood python or brb or gtp. They weren't asking about another species. It makes no sense. I believe if you go on Vpi. com It states; Ball pythons require a secure, well-ventilated cage. A glass aquarium with a secure ventilated top (screen wire or perforated metal) makes a satisfactory cage. Plastic storage boxes, with numerous perforations for ventilation, can be satisfactorily used to maintain ball pythons.

This facts sheet is outdated but it's tons better then may others I've found online. drFosters&Smithb is and always has been more about dogs and cats then anything. They have great departments for rodents and ferrets as well but their reptile department is slim. I can see a newbie taking this an expert guide which isn't ideal but it could be worse. I agree it should mention a form of regulating the heat source but since they do not sell thermostats then it doesn't suprise me that they left it out. As for the co-habitating, housing 2 BP together is possible with the right size enclosure and proper setup. They do not mention having 2 seperate hot spots but they did say it's doable with larger tank and plenty of hides. That is, again, better advise then other fact sheets I have found in the past

Sorry I could'nt fix my edit in time: In my opinion, if you believe everything you read on the web. Well you get what you deserve. There are multiple sources of information to be had. And your already on the web if you were reading that. Even on here a contributor named Skiploder just posted information on feeding and other husbandry issues, that made a lot of people think about how they were going about things. It's like when someone asks a question on here about a ball. And someone else answers, well my blood python or brb or gtp. They weren't asking about another species. It makes no sense. I believe if you go on Vpi. com It states;( Ball pythons require a secure, well-ventilated cage. A glass aquarium with a secure ventilated top (screen wire or perforated metal) makes a satisfactory cage. Plastic storage boxes, with numerous perforations for ventilation, can be satisfactorily used to maintain ball pythons.) Sorry I can't figure out how to change the font back. My point is there is probably lots of differing opions out there. And it's up to you to figure out what works best in your situation. I've been doing this for thirty years, and I'm still learning. Sorry if that turned into a rant.

Malnutrition is pretty fatal due to not eating because of stress caused by possible burns, another snake. low humidity causes stuck shed, stress which will lead to more stress. And again prolapse due to dehydration again is fatal. Another snake striking another snake due to mistaking it for food, is a serious injury if not fatal. I could go on but my break is over.

This feels like a witch hunt. There is more than one way to raise a snake and there are recommendations we make to new people that aren't necessary. What if I told you most of my ball pythons don't have hides and not a single cage has two hides? What if I told you all of my ball pythons have the same half pint water bowl? What if I told you I don't have that glorious accurite thing recommended everywhere in any cage because I think they are garbage? What if I told you I don't give a second thought if my ambient temps are at 70 degrees because I left the window open? eh I probably don't know what the hell i'm doing either, those all break caresheet recommendations.

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Originally Posted by kylearmbar

Malnutrition is pretty fatal due to not eating because of stress caused by possible burns, another snake. low humidity causes stuck shed, stress which will lead to more stress. And again prolapse due to dehydration again is fatal. Another snake striking another snake due to mistaking it for food, is a serious injury if not fatal. I could go on but my break is over.

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The snake will not get burned at 90 degrees, end story. You don't have to have a thermostat, you can use a rheostat as well. I don't see people running their house furnaces unregulated, most people understand the concept. Properly cohabitating snakes do not stress out. They recommend 50% to 60% humidity, not low humidity. I see they have a water bowl in there (even give a ridiculous water temp recomendation), so I don't see how the snake would be dehydrated. Properly cohabitating snakes won't mistake the other for food.

Can we stop the witch hunt now? is it a care sheet with an obvious agenda? yes. There nothing wrong with emailing them and asking for clarification on points, but I think most of us can agree it is not that bad, just vague. I do feel some of straw man arguments in this thread are worse than the caresheet. We should be better than that.