I think my Male Spaz has more issues thaan just not feeding..

Rack system.. Unsure of the size of tubs but they are pretty big so they have hides on both sides. Hotspots set at 91 (heat tape reading) so it keeps ambient temperature in the tub between 78-85. Also am using reptibark bedding. He is just nervous so i make sure he feels comfertable. If I get him out after about 3 min of him being in a ball he realizes i'm a good guy and will start to explore.

Not worried about spaz not eating because he started eating today.. Had 3 Fuzzy Mice. Since they were small i knew 3 would be okay. He just needed a cool down period. I'm just wondering if their weights are Low for their age. I figured they would fluctuate but didn't know it would be that extreme.

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Originally Posted by Tat2Guy

Spaz is 95g :O:Oand he did finally eat last night. He was born Nov 2013 per records
Dinker is 150-160g Born Oct 2013 per records
Sheeba is 150-160g Born Oct 2013 per records
Pagani is 169g Born Oct 2013

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I think that 2 rat pups in one feeding will be too much for any of your snakes. While it does vary, pups are generally in the 20-30 gram range. Following the 10-15% guideline (not everyone follows this, but I believe it's a good guide), this is more like what they should be eating:
Spaz: 10-14 grams
Dinker: 15-22 grams
Sheeba: 15-22 grams
Pagani: 17-25 grams

So Dinker, Sheeba, and Pagani should get 1 rat pup every 5-7 days, and I would probably give Spaz a rat fuzzy every 5-7 days until he gets a bit bigger.

You're also offering food too often. If you're doing a 5 day schedule, offer food once every 5 days (whether they eat or not). If they don't eat, they wait until the next feeding day. You don't want to offer them food too often, or it stresses them.

Make sure you avoid handling them until they're eating regularly.

Will start doing that as well.

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Originally Posted by Tat2Guy

Off topic, I noticed you have a Male Cinny.. Want to loan him to me for a little in a year or so? I really want some pewters :P LOL

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Lol... I'm not very close to Indiana :P

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Originally Posted by Tat2Guy

Rack system.. Unsure of the size of tubs but they are pretty big so they have hides on both sides. Hotspots set at 91 (heat tape reading) so it keeps ambient temperature in the tub between 78-85. Also am using reptibark bedding. He is just nervous so i make sure he feels comfertable. If I get him out after about 3 min of him being in a ball he realizes i'm a good guy and will start to explore.

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That's good :) everything sounds perfect. I just wanted to make sure. But I think they will be just fine :) you just got some little guys but you never know they may end up being huge once they are full grown!


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At many breeders' facilities, hatchlings for sale are fed less than the holdbacks. Nothing bad or unethical about that practice. It's to keep overhead costs low, which let the breeders sell at competitive prices. If breeders fed their hathcling the same way hobbyists do, feeding cost will negate profit margins. Just feed as recommended and your snakes will catch up.

OK awesome. Just wanted yo make sure that they were okay

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Odd question, which substrate did the breeder use, my 1400g pied, will NOT touch live/ft/ hell prolly not even a hamster on coconut bedding, she will strictly eat on paper or separate tub for whatever reason it may be. So i have all my snakes on Kraft indented paper until shed then i will put some eco earth coco husk in to help with humidity. She declined meals right when they switch of bedding happened, So possibly try that, also if you do feed F/T besides overall warming time of them i like to put there head up to a light to make it a lil bit warmer, helps my pick eaters strike faster then being nosey.

He used Aspen and I use the reptibark

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