Could Really Use Some Help! New Owner!

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Originally Posted by Crazymonkee

The probe of the thermoSTAT goes directly between the uth and bottom of the tank. The thermoMETER probe goes on the glass directly above the uth on the inside of the tank. The body of thermometer goes on the cool side of the tank.

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Thank you thank you thank you. That really helped clear things up. What kind of ThermoSTAT should I buy? Like brand wise. And also if my uth is a stick on one does thats matter?

Yes, you need a thermostat to control the UTH. (The UTH just plugs into the thermostat.) It will have a probe on a cable that you place directly over the heat mat. This will keep the UTH from getting too hot and injuring your snake.

In addition the Acu-Rite indoor/outdoor thermometer hygrometer works very well. I place the unit on the cool side and run the small probe to the same location as the thermostat probe. Be sure and scrape the little sticky pad off of the temperature probe. This will prevent the snake getting stuck to any adhesive (a related word of caution - never use tape or anything with adhesive inside the tank).

To prevent the snake from bumping the thermostat and thermometer probe away from the UTH I secure it in place with clear silicone sealant. It's the same thing that's in the corners of your tank so is harmless when dry.

Thermometer/Hygrometer http://www.walmart.com/ip/Acu-Rite-I...mometer/896347

My choice of thermostat http://lllreptile.com/store/catalog/...re-controller/

The best type of thermostats are called "proportional". They adjust the power going to the heat device according to need, not just on/off like the more economical one in the link. The proportional one's are, however, significantly more expensive.

That is thermostat I use, due to the fact I ordered my rack from C Serpents and on their website they say they use these. The Zilla that was mentioned above.

There is also the Hydrofarm found on Amazon

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Read through this, if you haven't already, it should answer most of your questions:
http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...-With-Pictures!

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Originally Posted by Saber402

Yes, you need a thermostat to control the UTH. (The UTH just plugs into the thermostat.) It will have a probe on a cable that you place directly over the heat mat. This will keep the UTH from getting too hot and injuring your snake.

In addition the Acu-Rite indoor/outdoor thermometer hygrometer works very well. I place the unit on the cool side and run the small probe to the same location as the thermostat probe. Be sure and scrape the little sticky pad off of the temperature probe. This will prevent the snake getting stuck to any adhesive (a related word of caution - never use tape or anything with adhesive inside the tank).

To prevent the snake from bumping the thermostat and thermometer probe away from the UTH I secure it in place with clear silicone sealant. It's the same thing that's in the corners of your tank so is harmless when dry.

Thermometer/Hygrometer http://www.walmart.com/ip/Acu-Rite-I...mometer/896347

My choice of thermostat http://lllreptile.com/store/catalog/...re-controller/

The best type of thermostats are called "proportional". They adjust the power going to the heat device according to need, not just on/off like the more economical one in the link. The proportional one's are, however, significantly more expensive.

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Okay this is exactly what I wanted thank you!

You're getting a lot of mainstream advice, which is accurate, but a bit overkill here and there as well as a few major "Do nots, in my" opinion. I have two specimens of python regius right now, one that I have had for going on 8 years (my first snake actually) and my newly acquired 2013 pastel. One I am mainly concerned about is your use of a towel, you are just begging for some mildew there bud, my adult ball python has shed successfully for almost a decade with a heat lamp over his head and me watering the substrate every week. My pastel also just shed this morning and humidity was provided by the moist substrate in her tub. I personally do not use thermostats on any heat pads I use simply because my specimens know when it's too hot and I will happily adjust things when I go through with the temp gun. I do not record humidity via a gauge, I go by what I see,smell, and what I know my animal's require. For example, I mist my pair of Morelia viridis daily and allow it to dry completely in 24 hours. For my retics and balls, I allow slight condensation to be maintained on the sides of the cage, I do not reapply moisture until all the condensation is gone. My boas are avid soakers so I simply mist them heavily twice a week...same schedule for my scrub pythons as well. You need to find your own niche and methodology, you have started with a fine species and it's good that you can ask for help but at the same time do not let your husbandry become too much of a laundry list. Good luck and hope that helps. I will also include a picture of my young one's cage if you need something to bounce ideas off (notice the condensation soon after I misted the cage)...
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-j...141403_945.jpg

I have a 20 gallon long and my set up is as good as I believe it will get...i have 2 hides( one on hot side one on cool side),i use a 75 watt bulb overhead for heat,cover 80% of the tank with a damp rag!have one large water bowl and a small bowl filled with very damp sphagnum moss..and in this tank I have no UTH because it's a 20 long and have overhead heat.. Hot side is around 90 and cool side is around 82 and humidity stays at average around 40-50 always.

http://i1287.photobucket.com/albums/...psf740e76b.jpg

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Originally Posted by Physician&Snakes

You're getting a lot of mainstream advice, which is accurate, but a bit overkill here and there as well as a few major "Do nots, in my" opinion. I have two specimens of python regius right now, one that I have had for going on 8 years (my first snake actually) and my newly acquired 2013 pastel. One I am mainly concerned about is your use of a towel, you are just begging for some mildew there bud, my adult ball python has shed successfully for almost a decade with a heat lamp over his head and me watering the substrate every week. My pastel also just shed this morning and humidity was provided by the moist substrate in her tub. I personally do not use thermostats on any heat pads I use simply because my specimens know when it's too hot and I will happily adjust things when I go through with the temp gun. I do not record humidity via a gauge, I go by what I see,smell, and what I know my animal's require. For example, I mist my pair of Morelia viridis daily and allow it to dry completely in 24 hours. For my retics and balls, I allow slight condensation to be maintained on the sides of the cage, I do not reapply moisture until all the condensation is gone. My boas are avid soakers so I simply mist them heavily twice a week...same schedule for my scrub pythons as well. You need to find your own niche and methodology, you have started with a fine species and it's good that you can ask for help but at the same time do not let your husbandry become too much of a laundry list. Good luck and hope that helps. I will also include a picture of my young one's cage if you need something to bounce ideas off (notice the condensation soon after I misted the cage)...
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-j...141403_945.jpg

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i know plenty of ppl that don't use thermostats for her UTH pads...there snakes never were affected either

Well I for one would not want to take the chance. For a couple extra bucks I KNOW my snake will not get burned

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Originally Posted by Crazymonkee

Well I for one would not want to take the chance. For a couple extra bucks I KNOW my snake will not get burned

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And then then the thermostat fails (lol). This is all fine and dandy but in all honesty if a machine absolutely needed something watching it 24/7 I honestly would not use it...just my perspective though.