Okay,okay...you guys have won me over

Hey Jonah,
Thankyou for the awesome writeup on this topic !!! The information is going to really help me in my efforts to get my herps on pre-killed. I am going to let my snakes work up an appetite to get them good and hungry and I am then going to attempt to feed them utilizing the jiggle method....I think my big boy Apok will probably be the first to go for it because he gets crazy even SMELLING prey in the same room...he will lash out at thin air in his feeding frenzy...isnt that crazy for a Ball Python.??? Once again thanks for the info and wish me luck...

EyeLashViper

LUCK!!!

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Originally Posted by Marla

Excellent job, Jonah!

Two minor additions to the info:
1. Some snakes react better to more movement, some to less. You will have to figure out what works best for yours. I've had snakes that wouldn't even sniff prey until I walked away, and I've had snakes insist on dinner and a show.

2. Normal body temp for rats and mice is the same as humans. Some snakes, including Tigergenesis', seem to prefer feverish rodents, but in the wild the rodents they'd be most likely to encounter would generally have a body temperature between 98F and 101F, so that should be your target temperature range, generally speaking.

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I can't emphasize Marla's point #2 enough. Just remember the key is to get them to recognize F/T as food. I used to have to measure the temp of my boy's food. Absolutely had to be a minium of 108 degrees outside body temp (then I had to make it 'dance' and drop it in front of him - he'd strike when it hit the ground) for him to even bat an eyelash - well, you know what I mean. 114 degrees and he would strike from the tongs immediately. After several months of this he will now take food at temps around 100 degrees right from the tongs. I just had to find what worked for him...my snakes are quirky. My BP is also 'potty trained'.

How did you measue the temp of your frosty rat??