New bp parent!!...pumped but almost as nervous as I was with my newborn daughter!!..

alright guys, i got a couple pics up under members galleries names gabriel. i still havent figured this site out completely so let me know if you guys have any trouble. i had a video of him running around his tank but it took too long to upload!!!!....

If you go to imageshack you can set up a free account and post the photos there. You can then use the picture link button to paste the URL and post the picture here on this thread

Imageshack- 10-4!!!...he seems highly active, but my mentor said it was normal at their age. Still haven't gotten him out for any longer to check on him (literally 30 sec to a minute).

As far as me asking about traveling with him. I have no plans to go far with him, and nowhere with him at his age. Just curious bc I see owners carry theirs around to shows and schools, eventually I would like to carry to places here n there, but never far or for prolonged periods...

tomorrow will be my first attempt with feeding him the f/t pup, my friend will be over Wednesday to check up on my set up n help feed if he doesn't take to his new diet. She has had mixed responses in her experience with swapping diets...

thanks guys!!...you're being a great help!!...

Ok sweetie, I'll add a little bit.

A humidifer is NOT NEEDED. Especially an in tank one, there is a real danger of baby getting inside it and getting stuck. I could tell you some horror stories. Do yourself a big favor, visit the husbandry forums here and read, read, read. There is a LOT of info on tanks and tank setups. Tanks are much harder to maintain, but it can be done. In general, you do not want a screen top. Screen tops do not hold humidity at all. You can purchase or make a plexiglas top, you only need a small area left open for circulation. Heat lamps are unnecessary unless your house is cold. Ambient temps should be around 75-78, which is what most houses are normally kept at. Make sure his heat mat has a thermostat, that is critical, because they can and will cook your baby.

It's a very good idea to black out the back and both ends of his tank, he needs privacy and security, and that will help immensely. When you purchase items for his tank, be sure to buy snake safe items. Nothing with small holes, no plants with plastic loops where baby can get caught, nothing metal that might rust, nothing with chemicals or paint that will flake off or anything that might mold or mildew, with the high humidity it will happen if you aren't careful. If you choose a decoration for baby to climb on, make sure it is low and very stable. Ball pythons are not normally climbers, and are very clumsy and will fall easily.

As far as traveling with baby, you can now and then, but a big thing to remember is traveling exposes baby to all kinds of nasty things, including bugs and diseases. And a huge thing for us reptile keepers is, not everyone out there loves our pets the way we do, and it is up to us to make sure to respect that. Don't take baby to parks or stores or other public places without express permission or an invitation. The last thing you or any of us needs is to cause a scene with a phobic person and give the politicians and crazy animal groups more ammunition to take our pets away from us.

This place has the most info anywhere for caring for and loving our terrific pets, so read, read, read, read.

Gale

Hey Gale! Thanks a ton, based on what you've said I got his home adequate. I'll read the husbadries section for sure. And tonight I will make the first attempt to feed him f/t food. What is you personal take on feeding inside or outside his tank?...

Inside hon. Always inside. There is a persistent myth out there that feeding in the home enclosure causes aggression. With ball pythons that's just baloney. If anything, you are MORE likely to get bitten moving a recently fed snake who is still in hunt mode back into it's home enclosure, than you ever will be by feeding in the home enclosure. I have a total of 37 ball pythons, counting babies. And every last one get's fed right in it's tub. I've never been bitten as a result. I've had a few close calls as a result of being too slow with dinner, but that's not aggression. If you take too long with my food when I'm hungry, I'm liable to try and bite too.

There is a trick to feeding f/t. First you must make sure the prey is totally and completely thawed all the way through. I had a bad experience with thinking the food was thawed when it wasn't and it caused me a few sleepless nights when someone got sick as a result. Once the prey is totally thawed out, remove the hide or hides from the tank so the baby knows something its up. Make sure you DO NOT handle the prey just before reaching into the tank! Bring the prey next to the tank and lay it down. Get a hairdryer and a set of tongs, because an excited ball has lousy aim sometimes and accidents do happen. Use the hairdryer to gently warm the prey all over, being sure to blow the warm rattie/mousie breezes in the direction of the tank. Once the prey is nicely warm all over, grip it by the loose skin on the nape of the neck, and hit just the head with the hair dryer for 15-30 seconds. You want that head super hot. Ball pythons see in heat, and you want dinner giving off a massive heat signature when you offer it to minimize the chance of baby mistaking your warm hand for dinner. Offer the prey close to the baby, but not right in front of. Off to one side is best. Don't move it about wildly, just a gentle little giggle and if things go well, baby will have it off those tongs before you even know what happened. If baby is reluctant, do a slow and gentle wiggle back and forth an inch or two, make it seem like dinner is moving around on it's own. This is called the "zombie dance". The idea is not to imitate the Rockettes, but just to entice baby with this tasty, wiggly morsel. If baby still hesitates, gently remove the prey and rewarm the head before offering again. It's ok the second time to do a little more of a zombie dance. If baby still refuses. Gently lay the prey down, cover the tank, dim the lights and leave the room for 30 minutes. When you return, most likely dinner will be gone. If not, time to remove dinner and wait at least 5 days before trying again.

I wish you guys all the best.

Gale

He took it!!!!...I ran very very hot water over the lil moussie for a while, I did put Gabriel in a small box, and dangled the food over and around him. I feel bad though, it startled me the first time he snapped and I pulled away, with his dinner, I then sat it down, he scoped it out, but didn't take, I waited, rewarmed, the dangled again. He took it!!!...I very easily placed the box back in his tank, and when he crawled out and under I removed the box, and replaced his decor...it's awesome, truly!!!...

Gale: I didn't read this before I fed him, my phone died and I can't use the Internet at home while my wife is taking online test, I get a sense you're dead on though, I could be a little off w/ your formula above, and next time I'll be more persice...but it was a smaller dinner than I thought, I may try n give him another meal in a few days....honestly I need measurements to give so you guys can let me know exactly what size and/or how many he should be given....


Im so pumped right now!!!....like when I taught both my daughters how to ride their bikes w/ no training wheels, only down a couple notches, I mean it's not my flesh n blood, but highly priding!!!....

Glad to hear that he ate for you. The next time he poops, try to get a weight on him so that we can determine what prey size is appropriate for him. You can use a kitchen type digital scale that is commonly available at stores like Target or Walmart. I got mine at Walmart for about $20 and it can handle up to 5000g (11lbs). Ideally you want to feed him prey that is about 10-15% of his body weight, and large enough to produce a small lump in his body. You should also pick up a combination thermometer/hygrometer. Walmart also carries these....I bought Accurite model 00325W digital meters for all of my tanks for $8.94/each.