Hydrofarm Thermostat Help!!

Dang it satomi325...I was getting there with the questions :P

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Willie76

Yes, it does take a little while for it to get into sync. This isn't a five minute process. What type of enclosure (glass, tub, etc)? Where is the heat tape (taped to the bottom of the enclosure, running along the back of the enclosure in a rack)? Where is the t-stat probe (sandwiched between heat tape and bottom of tub-if taped, taped directly on top of a back-run of the heat tape)? If you're using papertowels there should be less of a difference. I was using 1/2" Cypress and I did have to crank mine up a bit to get a decent hot spot. I never really fret about a single degree up or down...better than running the UTH at 130 wide open!

Normally shouldn't have to work that hard though. I would maybe get another in then send that one in for warranty replacement and you'll have a spare if one craps out. I would highly recommend getting a proportional t-stat eventually vs the on/off action of the hydrofarm.

---

I have had it running since yesterday evening. The probe is taped down on the flex watt beside the tub. It's a 15 quart tub, and it's sitting on a Plano shelf. http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/06/9era4ane.jpg

It sounds more to me like a defect, which is unusual. I have three hydrofarms hooked up and all run accurately. Either that, or your heat tape is defective and the probe is reading inaccurately because of the way it's taped down...? I'm not sure on that one, because I don't tape the end of my probe, I tape the first part of the cord instead and have the probe exposed but against the heat tape.

Good luck, I hope you get it worked out! This is odd!

I'm so frustrated! Urgghh

Don't use foil tape to secure the probe. It retains and traps heat. Its reading hotter than what its suppose to be.

Just tape down the cord closest to the probe.

And make sure the probe is in the middle of the flex

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

I'm sorry, it IS frustrating! If you can afford to, I would order another Hydrofarm (if you want to try Hydrofarm again), and return that one when you get your new one... so that you aren't waiting to return that one and then receive a replacement and not having a thermostat in the mean time. I do kind of feel like it's the heat tape though.... Best of luck - it'll get sorted out! :)

Thanks everyone I guess ill just keep tryin different stuff till I get it right!

You're doing so much right. Try not to get discouraged, they make a million of those at a time so there's bound to be a bad one or two in the batch. :gj: for even using a t-stat and thinking about the welfare of your animals first and foremost. I know proportional thermostats can be cost-prohibitive for many, but in the end, it's well worth the simple investment.

There are a number of issues with hydrofarms. I have looked very hard at them for adapting to an other use, extensive testing and many confabs with tech at hydrofarm.

The issues, well as mentioned, the foil tape is not helping. Flexwatt will also vary a few degrees in the length.

Hydrofarms have poor accuracy to start with they are spec'd at 2ºC up or down (that is just short of 4ºF) so set at 100 it could actually be 96-104. This is the beginning, they also have hysteresis this is the amount over and under the set point before it shuts down this is 1ºC up and down. This runs the possible error to 94-106º. The third issue is backlash swing. This is more complex and is compounded by cool room temps. It is the sample speed and the amount of time that big metal probe takes to respond. The heater heats up the probe heats up at a slower rate the unit shuts down the heater cools the probe cools and the unit kicks on again. The backlash is when the heater heats and cools faster than the probe. In the case of reptiles faster enclosure heats and cools. Cool room temps with plastic tubs are simply the worst for this condition. IMO they should NEVER be used on a tub with a UTH (carbon heater) connected to it with no gap. They are marginally ok with a indirect heat where there is a gap between heater and tub (like a rack) if used with an ACCURATE thermometer one better than 2ºF +/- (accurite units are 2ºC +/- for example they are not good enough the range is too great.) They are better suited to glass bottom glass acts as a buffer and levels the temp spikes.

In my tests I was able to get 15º spikes and 20º drops. With a tub direct heat, (wire type heating pad) in a room with an ambient air temp of 68ºF With a set point of 100º I got spikes of 121º with drops to 74º and back up again. Every 2 seconds. I personally would never recommend them I have had 8 units now in two groups (3 and 5) not one was even close to correct. I took the best 3 home as 'fail safes' these are they.
The best was 2ºF high and the worst was 5ºF high. If you don't have an accurate thermometer all you can do is guess.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by kitedemon

There are a number of issues with hydrofarms. I have looked very hard at them for adapting to an other use, extensive testing and many confabs with tech at hydrofarm.

The issues, well as mentioned, the foil tape is not helping. Flexwatt will also vary a few degrees in the length.

Hydrofarms have poor accuracy to start with they are spec'd at 2ºC up or down (that is just short of 4ºF) so set at 100 it could actually be 96-104. This is the beginning, they also have hysteresis this is the amount over and under the set point before it shuts down this is 1ºC up and down. This runs the possible error to 94-106º. The third issue is backlash swing. This is more complex and is compounded by cool room temps. It is the sample speed and the amount of time that big metal probe takes to respond. The heater heats up the probe heats up at a slower rate the unit shuts down the heater cools the probe cools and the unit kicks on again. The backlash is when the heater heats and cools faster than the probe. In the case of reptiles faster enclosure heats and cools. Cool room temps with plastic tubs are simply the worst for this condition. IMO they should NEVER be used on a tub with a UTH (carbon heater) connected to it with no gap. They are marginally ok with a indirect heat where there is a gap between heater and tub (like a rack) if used with an ACCURATE thermometer one better than 2ºF +/- (accurite units are 2ºC +/- for example they are not good enough the range is too great.) They are better suited to glass bottom glass acts as a buffer and levels the temp spikes.

In my tests I was able to get 15º spikes and 20º drops. With a tub direct heat, (wire type heating pad) in a room with an ambient air temp of 68ºF With a set point of 100º I got spikes of 121º with drops to 74º and back up again. Every 2 seconds. I personally would never recommend them I have had 8 units now in two groups (3 and 5) not one was even close to correct. I took the best 3 home as 'fail safes' these are they.
The best was 2ºF high and the worst was 5ºF high. If you don't have an accurate thermometer all you can do is guess.

---

Wow that a lot of fluctuation!! Yea I don't know what to do the hydrofarm is reading 102 and my accu rite says 84 at the hot spot!!!