Vote for BP.Net for the 2013 Forum of the Year! Click here for more info.

» Site Navigation

» Home
 > FAQ

» Online Users: 795

0 members and 795 guests
No Members online
Most users ever online was 47,180, 07-16-2025 at 05:30 PM.

» Today's Birthdays

None

» Stats

Members: 75,905
Threads: 249,107
Posts: 2,572,120
Top Poster: JLC (31,651)
Welcome to our newest member, Pattyhud
  • 03-01-2013, 01:44 AM
    The Serpent Merchant
    Here is a design that I just came up with. This certainly isn't a finished product, but is a good proof of concept:

    The rack is made from 1/2" Oak Plywood and uses #10 wood screws that are 1.5 inches long. It is designed to house 6 ARS 70 series tubs (41 qt):

    http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7539c8d4.jpg

    http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...psf056fcd1.jpg

    http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...ps338efca4.jpg

    http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...ps52f41bee.jpg

    http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0ff545de.jpg

    http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...psd896c28e.jpg

    http://i1186.photobucket.com/albums/...psac7c5625.jpg

    The screws on the sides are counterbored and have wood plugs to cover the holes, while the screws on the back are just countersunk and exposed.

    I used the dynamic simulation tool in the CAD software that I use to test the design. Even with the back panel completely removed the rack could withstand 50 + pounds of force applied to the sides or top with minimal deflection.
  • 03-01-2013, 07:25 AM
    BHReptiles
    Re: Rack design and heat tape maintenance.
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by whispersinmyhead View Post
    I am just reading a lot of people replacing every 5 years. I am adding the door or at least a section that is easy to remove.

    Thanks. I know it lasts a whole especially if it is recessed.

    I wonder about the RBI racks if you can replace it. They don't look like you can dismantle.


    I don't think I can take the back panel off, but they do have little holes in the side panels so you can access the flexwatt. It's not too bad.
  • 03-01-2013, 08:38 AM
    whispersinmyhead
    Re: Rack design and heat tape maintenance.
    [QUOTE=I used the dynamic simulation tool in the CAD software that I use to test the design. Even with the back panel completely removed the rack could withstand 50 + pounds of force applied to the sides or top with minimal deflection.[/QUOTE]

    That is good news. I was planning on using 3/4" stock to make sure it doesn't warp. Also wanted to use plugs over the wood screews. I did that on my large cage and it looked awesome.

    The 3/4" stock was also going to help keep the heat in better because it is in a room at 70f.

    I think if I have a 3" section at each corner that will help the strength and screw in the back panel to keep it strong instead of a hinge. I won't be back there all the time. This is going to be heavy so I am going to put this on locking casters.
  • 03-01-2013, 09:12 AM
    kitedemon
    My rack is pvcx not the strongest of materials. With the back off I usually turn it 360º to get at the upper sides. It is quite rigid. The shelves are rabbited in place. It is about 1/2 inch I would suggest that 3/4 baltic birch would be 3 or 4 times stronger that pvc I would think 3/4 to be way over kill. It is the best ply I have ever worked with other than marine grade.

    The 6 mm BB is 5 ply it has more stability (warp resistance) than regular fir 3/4 which is also 5 ply the 3/4 BB is 13 ply. It will not warp, you might be able to save space and weight there. THG tape is not cUL or CSA approved at all. Some insurance companies will not cover any electrical appliance that is not approved it might be worth looking in to. Flexwatt has cUL, but there is an argument for using regular UTH especially new higher grade ones that have lower heating temps I do not like using heat sources that exceed 100ºF.
  • 03-01-2013, 09:59 AM
    whispersinmyhead
    I am going to get some pricing done on Baltic birch very soon. I have a feeling it may be considerably more than oak but I will find out. 1/2" Baltic birch would be ideal. I have to draw up my cut sheet for 60"x60". As it stands I am just over 2 sheets of 4'x8' so I have to buy three. I think I may need 4 sheets of 60x60. That may end up going over my budget a little. I am going to check out some lumber places because homedepot doesn't seem to get great quality ply. If I can't get Baltic birch or cost is too high I will stick with 3/4". With wheels I can move it to clean underneath and access the back if need be. This will be replacing a much larger and heavier cage and cabinet I built. So even 3/4" ply and just having wheels and space saving will be a huge plus.

    I am toying with the idea of runners under the tubs instead of recessing the shelf. Something along the lines of paint stir sticks. That way the shelf itself and the heat tape stay in good condition for much longer. (Just esthetics).
  • 03-01-2013, 10:54 AM
    AKA Reptiles
    [IMG]http://i1155.photobucket.com/albums/...ps4063fa0f.jpg[/IMG]

    [IMG]http://i1155.photobucket.com/albums/...ps00bc9ed4.jpg[/IMG]

    Here are a couple that I put together earlier this year. I don't have the backing in yet but was going to use hardboard as it is cheap and would give the rack better insulation for retaining heat. I didn't recess the heat tape because I saw no need for it. This is the fourth rack that I've built and still use the first one I built with no problems in the heating system. The tubs ride along the foil tape and never touch the heat tape directly. Ive never changed out or replaced my heat tape and my oldest rack is over 7 years old. I also used the new style heat tape. It works loads better then the older crimson connectors.
  • 03-01-2013, 06:36 PM
    mechnut450
    I designed and built a 14 tub rack ( held 36-41 quart tubs with the lids on them. I set the rack up as a 7 shelf unit with 2 tubs per shelf. I needed 2 sheets of 3/4 plywood ( sides and back) and If I remember 3 sheets of 1/4 ( was too thin) plywood for the shelves. I did use some 1x2 to attach the shelves to the frame so they have a nice tight fit. ( I also made my bottom shelf so it was 4 inches off the floor ( and a strip of 1x4 as a kick/bump guard. ) I did this all as a precut set up an then simply assembled it in the room I was having it spend the working life of it ( worked out great for me until I moved) and It currently sitting dismantled in my mother's shed until either such time I want to dispose of the wood or if I have to move back in.

    I think the total cost with out heat tape( flexwatt and the t-stat) was just under 400 bucks.
    I liked it cause was too heavy to move and with 12inch wide by 3 ft long strips of watt it worked out great for my snakes. lol ( once I made and installed some braces in the shelves the sagging was not an issue.)

    I come to enjoy making rough drawing for making racks. I even take the time to figure out the wood cutting and how many pieces you have to buy lol. ( just cant set the price since every store price might be different lol
  • 03-01-2013, 07:09 PM
    whispersinmyhead
    That is a good sized rack! I am going to stick with small racks because I don't have a ton of room. Right now I working on getting second female and a male this summer. Then depending on the snakes size I want to attempt a little breeding next season or the season after.

    It will be a fun project for my daughter and I. My wife isn't much of an animal person but she likes reptiles and snakes. I think this is the first time I have ever seen her excited about animals. My daughter is 8 right now and I will let her pick out one of the babies as hers when they hatch.

    Right now my goal is just to have a good handful of snake I like as pets and try some breeding. If we like it (I sure I will) I will continue to do some small scale breeding on a purely hobby basis. I don't want this to be a business but I love in an area where there just isn't anyone producing locally (Northern Ontario). So if I can help educate friends and family it will be good for the hobby up here. I get so much joy out of ours reptile experiences and I want to share that. I do have quite a few people that already have dibs on the babies once we hatch some and get them feeding.

    This is going to be a good start. I am enjoying researching everything and once I get the racks built and buy an incubator, I will give it a go. I am stoked.

    - - - Updated - - -

    That is a good sized rack! I am going to stick with small racks because I don't have a ton of room. Right now I working on getting second female and a male this summer. Then depending on the snakes size I want to attempt a little breeding next season or the season after.

    It will be a fun project for my daughter and I. My wife isn't much of an animal person but she likes reptiles and snakes. I think this is the first time I have ever seen her excited about animals. My daughter is 8 right now and I will let her pick out one of the babies as hers when they hatch.

    Right now my goal is just to have a good handful of snake I like as pets and try some breeding. If we like it (I sure I will) I will continue to do some small scale breeding on a purely hobby basis. I don't want this to be a business but I love in an area where there just isn't anyone producing locally (Northern Ontario). So if I can help educate friends and family it will be good for the hobby up here. I get so much joy out of ours reptile experiences and I want to share that. I do have quite a few people that already have dibs on the babies once we hatch some and get them feeding.

    This is going to be a good start. I am enjoying researching everything and once I get the racks built and buy an incubator, I will give it a go. I am stoked.
  • 03-02-2013, 06:54 PM
    AKA Reptiles
    Good luck. I know the addiction will spread. MUAAHAHAHAHAAHAHA!!! Evil laugh a little much?
Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v4.2.1