Over-exaggeration or extremely factual... BP eating habits?

Eating habits are entirely dependent on the individual snake. I have rock solid eaters, some that go on and off, and one truly picky eater...all provided with the correct temps, humidity, etc... I've had one go off feed for just over 11 months at 1,100-1,200 grams, and lost less than 100 grams in that time. She was seen by my vet, I tried all the tricks in the book to get her feeding....she just wouldn't touch a thing in that time. That's a more extreme case, but it does happen.

Corn snakes, on the other hand, which I have owned several of, rarely miss a meal(missing several in a row is a sign of a problem, unlike with ball pythons). They can be nippy when they're young, but can't break skin. They're usually past that at around 6 months or so, and a well handled corn snake, more often than not, will not be flighty at all as they mature. And although there is tons of info out there on keeping either to avoid this---> corn snakes are a bit more forgiving of husbandry errors.

Either make a good starter snake...as do California Kings, Eastern Kings, Gopher snakes, rosy boas, sand boas, and more. I've recently added a woma python, and they are another great, fairly simple to keep snake. They tend to have a more acute feeding response, and will get a little larger than the others I've mentioned, but handle like a charm. You'll likely be best off keeping what interests you most...as that is what will make things easiest for you.

@toritheballpython: full adult size of a ball python is not an issue, but I would not venture into a larger sized snake. I do like their girth however.

Oh also, I think the whole "balls are finicky eaters" came from a LONG TIME AGO when they were importing a lot. WC imports have eating problems in captivity (I hear). But a nice CBB from a breeder shouldn't trouble you too much as long as you have good husbandry.

Wild caught balls, which were by far the norm back in the 80's, did have a rep as picky eaters and were sometimes hard to start, especially if they were recent imports. They also often came in with active parasitical issues, I even saw an import shipment of balls that had ticks visible on several, (parasites and RI's with WC animals...fairly common back then... contributed to that "myth" of balls being picky feeders IMHO). Once disease/parasite free, healthy & acclimated, I had very few that refused to eat, so I think the species kinda got a bad rap which seems to have persisted (undeservedly so IMHO). I haven't had any of those issues with any of my CB BP's....in fact, they are very active aggressive feeders, and shed perfectly; all five of them.

Any snake is sensitive to temperature being ectothermic, and all usually thrive when provided temps replicating their natural habitat, but in my experience I don't believe that balls are any more, or any less sensitive to dysfunctional husbandry than any other species, (in my experience they are actually quite adaptive and hardy). I've always considered CB Balls as one of the least problematic species to keep; small size, dependable eaters and mellow attitude...doesn't get much better than that. I had far more issues with various kingsnakes and milksnakes than I ever had with a ball.

Humidity can and is an issue in some climates, but that can be readily improved with a "wet" hide filled with moistened moss, vermiculite or even potting soil. My ambient humidity is generally between 50-60%, and I haven't had any shedding issues at all, (and haven't needed a moist hide). Keeping a moistened hide box can provide proper humidity quite easily, just remember to also provide a "dry" hide so they can self-regulate as needed. They also should have hot, and also cooler basking areas so they can self-thermoregulate as needed.

In my opinion ball pythons are among the top choices as a first snake, but like any snake they simply need correct conditions to thrive, (which is easily achieved with BP's). Of course, asking whether a snake is eating prior to purchase is basically "Snake Keeping 101", and should be the first question asked of a seller.

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Originally Posted by Ssnakey87

edited for answering direct questions

I have two concerns which cause pause in getting a BP as I keep reading these two statements about balls all the time:
1.) balls are picky, finicky eaters
2.) balls are very temperature and humidity sensitive
3.) However the eating aspect is very discouraging. Is this usually the rule and not exception?
4.) If you had to put going off feed on a percentage scale what would it be?
5.) And if going off feed is so common should I not worry initially if I get a ball?
6.) Are balls really unforgiving in minor husbandry mistakes compared to corns?

I want a calm, mostly non-nippy (especially as a baby), can hang with on the couch type of snake. I would also prefer a juvenile as opposed to a baby that is well-started. I also want to feed f/t, more economical than buying live and I'm not to keen on feeding live if I can avoid it.

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1) This statement is an exaggeration. Ball pythons can seasonally go off feed, but it's not because it's being "picky" about what kind of food it wants. While some individuals are picky about types of feeders, my personal experience is that it is not typical and they are more often fantastic eaters than not.

2) This statement is an exaggeration, particularly when comparing ball pythons to herps that really are quite temperature sensitive. There is a huge difference between temperature sensitivity and cold tolerance, these are not snakes that tolerate true cold unlike some colubrids or other python species. Keep the winter air temps above 75* for best results, but really there's a good window for optimum temperatures. These guys do have bad sheds with low humidity, and consistent low humidity can lead to respiratory problems for them.

3) I've had more problems with my western hognose snakes than my ball pythons. Both make excellent pets, which would not be the case if feeding was an actual issue that prevented them from thriving in captivity

4) Every ball python I've had has refused a feeder. Then again, every snake I've had has refused a feeder, with the exception of ONE of my two youngest carpet pythons. It's not a big deal, most refusals or feeding strikes are short lived.

5) Again, ball pythons make excellent pets, and that wouldn't be the case if they never ate and just starved themselves to death.

6) Don't compare them to corn snakes. Corn snakes are freaking bulletproof. They'll overeat until they explode and their wild range includes true cold climates and dry conditions. Is steel soft compared to diamonds? Heck yes. But I still wouldn't call steel soft, it's still an excellent building and armoring material, and I wouldn't punch it with a closed fist.

If you want a lap snake that eats F/T rats, ball pythons are an excellent choice. There is nothing in their husbandry that isn't easily provided. The issue is that the people who don't take the time to read the optimum husbandry choices tend to have health problems when long-term errors are made. It really is as simple as getting some temperatures and humidity levels squared away. A water dish, substrate choice, heating element, and t-stat take care of most of that pretty easily.

I got my first Ball Python August 2011. Since then we have only had a few times that she has refused to eat. Usually we just wait until the next scheduled feeding and things are back to normal. She has been a total joy to own and I love her so much that I got another Ball Python this past September! I haven't had problems keeping the proper heat in their tanks and the only real prior experience I had was keeping my Leopard Geckos. Both of the BP's we got were babies and we went right to the breeders house to get them. We've had a great support system. Both BP's enjoy hanging out while we are sitting on the couch with us and are truly a joy to own. Using large water bowls and humid hides I have only had one shed that was less than ideal on either of my BP's and that was back when we first started.

I had friends with a corn snake when I was younger and kept thinking I wanted to have one. I did a lot of research about a year ago and thought I wanted an adult/young adult vs a baby. I finally found one (May 2012) that wasn't really being taken very good care of and was around 120 grams and reported to be 2 years old. She was gorgeous and seemed ok with handling, though not quite as content to just sit there like the BP's. She had been underfed and kept in improper temps and enclosure. After a few feedings she started getting a little more aggressive. She has struck at my husband a few times. She acts like she might strike at me, but she doesn't. But when I get her out she is hard to handle as she is either practically squeezing my hand off or going all over the place. Additionally if I get near ANYTHING while she is out she will wrap around it and refuse to budge. She has more than doubled in size and is quite long. She will frequently anchor herself on her cage stand or a chair or something else and I have to patiently wait until I can unwind her to put her back. Her nickname is the garbage disposal as she will eat anything and generally no matter what I feed her she still acts hungry. She is gorgeous and fun to watch climb the branches in her enclosure and burrow in the aspen in her enclosure. She is not nearly as fun to have just out of her enclosure hanging around though. I think corns may be a little easier on the temp/humidity front just because they don't need temps as warm.

I'm sure all snakes differ, but if I had to go back I would probably just get my baby BP that I got this past fall instead of the corn snake. I like my corn and will keep her forever, but having her AND my new BP means I'm kind of at my limit and can't get the additional leopard gecko I was hoping to get. I would really suggest trying to meet several of each snake if possible to get a better idea of their general temperments. Also, keep in mind, an adult snake may change once you get it into YOUR environment after buying/adopting it. My corn snake sure did!