Ball Python Won't Eat Rat

Hi, just a thought, your male has small rats so i gather he is adult. Now i dont know how things are where you are but in the UK most folk are pairing and my males are doing their usual for this time of year, sporadic feeding(if at all) restless etc.Just after some lovin.

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Originally Posted by se900se

undertank heater + 100W lamp
termometer+humidity control

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To add, what kind of thermometer do you have? Is it circular and sticks onto the sides, or does it have a cord with a probe

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Originally Posted by The Serpent Merchant

Yes, this is very likely the problem. ZooMed UTH's can and will get hot enough to seriously injure a BP (130+ degrees and it only takes 108 to give a BP brain damage) the packaging is very misleading and in my opinion criminal.

You must regulate a UTH with a thermostat. Here are 3 good thermostats. Don't waste your money on the junk sold in pet stores.

Budget: http://www.amazon.com/Hydrofarm-MTPR.../dp/B000NZZG3S

Mid-Range: http://www.reptilebasics.com/ranco-etc-111000-pre-wired

Best: http://spyderrobotics.com/home/products.html

Here is a thread that goes over the difference between the listed thermostats, as well as a few other topics related to cage heating:
http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...t-Thermometers

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Will these Thermostats work with a zoomed heater. I never knew you could control temps. can you get something like this at petco.

Here is the thermostat I have and it works great. I usually keep mine at 91 degrees.

http://www.reptilebasics.com/ve-200

As other members have mentioned if your ball is on top of it's hide it's too hot. Also do you have two identical hides in it's enclosure? Because you need to have one on the hot side and one on the cool side so that your ball can properly regulate it's body temperature while feeling safe at all times. And also as others have already mentioned you NEED a thermostat. Even if it's one of the lower end ones ( about $20 on Amazon ). I have used these and for smaller enclosures they work well ( I would recommend having a second digital thermometer with the probe right next to the one on the thermostat itself just to keep it honest ). Also keep an eye on the humidity you don't want to go below 50 or above 80. Between 50-60 percent humidity is a good place to be, and once you notice your snake going blue before a shed it never hurts to bump the humidity up to 60-70 percent.

Another thing to keep in mind is that it is winter. As long as your husbandry is spot on and your snake isn't visibly getting skinnier I wouldn't worry about it, many snakes go off of feed during the colder months ( However my girl has yet to turn down a meal on me, ever! ) But all animals are individuals so what one does doesn't necessarily dictate what another will do. So just listen to all the great advice the other members here are offering up and offer your snake a meal on a regular basis ( every 10-14 days for an adult ), but don't leave it unattended, and when your snake is hungry enough it will eat.

im assuming if hes laying on top of the hide is because he has no other hide to go to, you gonna want 2 identical hides. Also if u cant get your hands on a thermostat right now, i recommend you atleast get a dimmer from home depot (like 3 dollars) until your thermostat arrives.

Not to toot my own horn or nothing :rolleyes: but here is a picture of what is in my opinion a perfect setup, it just so happens to be mine :D

only thing u cant see from this picture is a second digital thermometer on the left side (when i took this picture he climbed on it and dropped it into the water and i was waiting for my replacement) and the ultratherm uth under the right side hide. Also disregard the left white lamp, thats only used for viewing purposes and when im checking the tank, the red heater lamp on the right is the ONLY one that stays on all the time.

http://www.imagebam.com/image/3e6f91167527939