New Set-up...Outgassing Radiant Panels from Helix....How long do I do this for??

Take the doors off and if you have a fan angle it inside.

I find especially with visions UTH do a super job of keeping the gradient. RHPs really perform best with a vertical gradient rather than horizontal. It is a choice, I also have yet to fine a really safe probe placement that works well. I would NEVER suggest a probe be placed where an animal can get between the probe and heat source especially with a radiant source. Everything is a little more complex with RHP and short enclosures (I believe Jeff Washburn recommends the face of the panel be 15-22 inches away from the floor???). It adds effort for little to no gain you will figure it out it just is harder and more expensive than it needs to be.

Thanks!! Appreciate the feedback. Given that I was stacking 2 tanks, thought the RHPs would work best. Not going to really know until I try and regulate with thermostat. Also thought that given the undulated nature of the bottom of the vision tanks, that the flexwatt would have been difficult.... This is my 1st go around with a more advanced set-up so I appreciate any and all advice.

Since you are already doing it and as you are inside the min recommended distances I would really check the temps you have. Turn off any fan replace the doors for 30 min to one hour and check the panel face and the temp on the floor directly under the RHP as well as the ambient air temp 4 inches down from the ceiling and on the far side away from the RHP. as well as floor surface there. I might also after these are done add a hide under the RHP and wait an hour and check the hide top floor under it and ceiling of the hide. I would do all this with the lights off and then again with them on for a few hours. It is amazing how much difference FL lights can make.

This will give you a sense of how much effect the panel is having on the cool side (what is the difference between floor under it and away from it) How hot the floor (under the RHP) will become (if you really need to rethink that min distance you are at least 7-11 inches inside of) Also the temp difference you can expect between the top of the hide outside and the temp inside it.

The more information you can gather about what the maxed out temp is the easier it will be to see what it is doing and how it effects the rest of the system. When the temps are lower everything will be more subtle so it is harder to figure out. It will also give you a sense of what the penalty of a full T-stat failure is. Personally I have no set up that if you just plug the heaters into the wall (full Tstat failure I also run a failsafe system or a backup system so it is very very unlikely) the snakes inside would be subjected to NO more than 100ºF higher than comfortable but lower than really dangerous.

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Originally Posted by kitedemon

Since you are already doing it and as you are inside the min recommended distances I would really check the temps you have. Turn off any fan replace the doors for 30 min to one hour and check the panel face and the temp on the floor directly under the RHP as well as the ambient air temp 4 inches down from the ceiling and on the far side away from the RHP. as well as floor surface there. I might also after these are done add a hide under the RHP and wait an hour and check the hide top floor under it and ceiling of the hide. I would do all this with the lights off and then again with them on for a few hours. It is amazing how much difference FL lights can make.

This will give you a sense of how much effect the panel is having on the cool side (what is the difference between floor under it and away from it) How hot the floor (under the RHP) will become (if you really need to rethink that min distance you are at least 7-11 inches inside of) Also the temp difference you can expect between the top of the hide outside and the temp inside it.

The more information you can gather about what the maxed out temp is the easier it will be to see what it is doing and how it effects the rest of the system. When the temps are lower everything will be more subtle so it is harder to figure out. It will also give you a sense of what the penalty of a full T-stat failure is. Personally I have no set up that if you just plug the heaters into the wall (full Tstat failure I also run a failsafe system or a backup system so it is very very unlikely) the snakes inside would be subjected to NO more than 100ºF higher than comfortable but lower than really dangerous.

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Thanks..... What's the best and most accurate way to check temps?? Gun??

Gun is the easiest for the surfaces but it cannot check air temps for that a probed thermometer is the only way. Although if you check the far side wall is likely close.