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RTB questions

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  • 09-08-2012, 12:21 PM
    Salamander Rising
    Re: RTB questions
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by SeeTheCityLights View Post
    Thanks guys! So helpful :)

    Another question... I'm a girl and I'm 5'3", will I have problems handling an adult rtb?
    & when you guys say "in your face" do you mean they just want to get close to your face, but not aggressive? "Cuddly"? :P
    & hook training... tell me about it. Do you just get him out with the hook every time you want to hold him? and keep the hook out of sight during feeding time? Or is there more to it?

    So, in a nutshell, is this right?
    - Once they're adults, a jumbo every other week to once a month?
    - Ambient of mid to high 70's, hot spot of 90, and humidity at 50-60, and 70 in shed
    - Usually stay under 10 feet, and up to 30 pounds

    I have a 20 gallon terrarium with sliding glass doors and a screen top that I have completely decorated with a backdrop, fake plants glued to the wood background, driftwood, etc... I had originally made it for my 1st ball, but he's in a tub so I don't need it anymore, and he's never even been in the tank. Will that 20g be okay for the first year we have the rtb? We plan on building a full sized cage once she needs it.

    The biggest thing we were worried about was feeding costs and adult size, but seeing as they eat much less than balls, that makes me feel better.

    I have seen pictures on google that they look really big, both long and thick (that's what she said :P ). Are all adult rtb's like this, or is this just due to feeding bigger meals like rabbits, or jumbo rats every week?

    I'm 5'3", 100 pounds dripping wet.

    I've had no problems at all.

    "In your face" means they want to crawl over you, on you, perch on your head, wrestle you to stay out when you want to put them in, use you for a basking tree, watch TV with you and generally just be all up in your business every chance they get.

    Don't do what I've apparently done and stuff your snake with a jumbo rat every week and you won't have any problems with a 7 footer giving you a shoulder spasm because, for whatever snakey reason, that's the side he likes to plop his heaviest part on and just hang out, interminably.

    You are so gonna love having a Boa.

    :D

    FWIW, I had to put my Pookie to sleep 3 weeks ago and hubby is very busy in the shop with a trike kit so I had no one to console me when I broke down.

    One night, I took the ever-mischievous Bob out and just sat with him on a kitchen bar stool and he hugged me.

    He wasn't his usual all-over-the-place squiggly self...he almost seemed to sense something was wrong and just gently wrapped himself around me and 'held me', laying his neck on my shoulder, nuzzling my tear stained cheeks and occasionally "kissing" my nose.

    I have no idea how much he "understood" but I cannot overstate how much it helped me get through that bout of crushing grief.

    Bob might be just a 'common BCI', even though the local herp guy suspects he's a hypo or pastel but regardless, that snake is not for sale for any amount of money.


    He's my buddy Bob.

    :oops:
  • 09-08-2012, 04:32 PM
    SeeTheCityLights
    You guys are awesome, thank you!
    Should I feed inside the cage or in a separate feeding tub?
  • 09-08-2012, 04:55 PM
    Tfpets
    Now your opening a whole other can of worms! Honestly its up to you! What do you do with your Bps?
    At one time I fed in separate tubs. I began having problems with still in "feed me" mode when I would try to put them away. Just seems like an extra, unnecessary step to me. That was the only time my burm has bit me. She thought she was getting another rabbit! I haven't had a problem since I have been feeding in cage. But that is where proper handling and hook training comes in handy.
  • 09-08-2012, 05:15 PM
    jjmitchell
    Re: RTB questions
    First off, feed in their enclosure... you just run the risk with strong feeding response of getting bitten by an animal that knows its chow time, or stressing an animal out so it doesnt feed as well, and then if it does eat you are moving an animal that is in feed mode back into a cage.....

    - Care sheets I've read said they can be 6-12 feet. What's the average for a male, and average for a female? Is a 10-12 foot common or no?
    There are several localities of boas you can work with stuff like sonorans that average 4.5ft as adults or peruvians that run 12ft+..... That being said the most common is columbian, and 8ft seems about average on columbian females around 20-25lbs.... that being said a good friend recently purchased a 2006 female snow boa that is over 60lbs and 11 ft long, and yup she is pure columbian.... so the big snakes are more rare but it does happen...

    - How much do they usually weigh as adults? (male and female)
    my bigger males weigh 12-15 lbs, adult females 20lbs+

    - Also read that amount of feeding determines size. Is this true, or will they keep growing really big no matter how little you feed?
    Well there is a plethora of boa localities that range from just above bp size to some that push the size of smaller burms so the size range is quite vast why not pick an animal that size wise fits into your desires rather than trying to overfeed an animal to make it larger or starve one to keep it smaller...... bottom line I do not agree with controlling the size of an animal by its feed

    - Can they stay on rats their entire lives, or will they need to be fed rabbits eventually?
    Even my big females eat Jumbo and xxl rats.... I wouldnt see any sense feeding rabbits unless you could find some very small bunnies cheaper than huge rats

    - Ambient temp of 80, hot spot of 90. Humidity between 60-80. Is that right?
    hot spot of 87-90 mine prefer the lower end, cool end is close to room temp of 75... humidity range is right

    - Average cost of feeding per month?
    well depends on what you are feeding... a baby boa 4 rat pups a month (frozen as little as $4 a month live may cost you as much as 12 depending on your local supplier) I think my boas cost the most when they are eating medium - large rats frozen that cost about 8 bucks a month frozen per animal.... once they are no longer satisfied and go to jumbos the feeders cost more but they eat half as often....

    - Anything else I should know before taking the dive into boas? I know you like you ball pythons now.... and you will still like them after, but you will begin to understand how fun a snake can be to handle. Something that is active and curious, not something that is going to lay there and go to sleep (like a bp)

    the only other big thing to think about.... I keep alot of boas and a good number of pythons... I quarantine boas for several months because they can harbor disease longer than pythons with out showing signs of illness......
  • 09-09-2012, 03:51 AM
    SeeTheCityLights
    Got it! :) Okay, other questions. Is a Columbian red tail and a red tail the same thing? I've read a few things on the differences between BCC and BCI and I'm still confused... Where does a red tail fall in those groups? And how do I tell the difference between a regular red tail boa and one crossed with different localities or whatever? And then I keep seeing hog island boas that look a lot like red tails to me. How do I tell the difference between red tails and other similar looking boas?
    Sorry for all these noob questions... Boas are on a whole nother level for me compared to balls. :oops:
  • 09-09-2012, 10:46 AM
    Daybreaker
    Re: RTB questions
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by SeeTheCityLights View Post
    Got it! :) Okay, other questions. Is a Columbian red tail and a red tail the same thing? I've read a few things on the differences between BCC and BCI and I'm still confused... Where does a red tail fall in those groups? And how do I tell the difference between a regular red tail boa and one crossed with different localities or whatever? And then I keep seeing hog island boas that look a lot like red tails to me. How do I tell the difference between red tails and other similar looking boas?
    Sorry for all these noob questions... Boas are on a whole nother level for me compared to balls. :oops:

    "True redtails" are BCC boas (Surinames, Peruvians, Guyanas, etc), so when someone says they have a Colombian (It's with an "o" not a "u") red tail boa it's not totally correct IMO but a lot of people call all boas "red tails" anyway. Sometimes you can tell certain characteristics if a BCI is crossed with a BCC (possible redder tail, saddles, face markings, etc) but for locals the only true way of telling is knowing the snake's origins (and some Colombians may have peaked saddles and whatnot like a BCC would while some BCC boas don't have much peaking). Hog Island Boas are BCI and not a Colombians or a BCC, they are usually lighter colored with lots or minimal peppering with more orange tails.

    Check out this site for lots of good info: http://www.riobravoreptiles.com/index.htm
  • 09-09-2012, 11:02 AM
    Tfpets
    Basically, the term "red tail boa" is a generic term that has been put on an entire group of boas. As stated above, even the most generic of "red tail boas", the colombian, is not a true "red tail boa". It will help keep the confusion to a minimum if you start thinking of each local as a separate snake. And yes, hog islands, Peruvians, colombians etc. etc. all have the "red tail". What will really blow your mind is the several boas that aren't in the "red tail" group. Such as the dumerils! You might even look into them if your wanting something smaller!
  • 09-09-2012, 11:31 AM
    SeeTheCityLights
    and I thought multi-gene ball morphs could be difficult to tell apart sometimes :P
    Okay, I think I got it. What are the "red tails" that are sold in pet stores? Are they true red tails, or colombians, or...? Are colombians really THAT different? As in, different length/weight, different temp/humidity requirements, etc.?
    I'll probably be buying from one of my local chain pet stores... I know, that's a no-no, but I know someone who works at one that can get me a big discount, at the cost that the pet store actually pays for the snakes. Is that really a bad bad bad idea?
    I feel like such a clueless noob in the boa world :confusd: If they didn't all look so similar I'd be a lot better off right now haha
  • 09-09-2012, 12:04 PM
    Daybreaker
    Re: RTB questions
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by SeeTheCityLights View Post
    and I thought multi-gene ball morphs could be difficult to tell apart sometimes :P
    Okay, I think I got it. What are the "red tails" that are sold in pet stores? Are they true red tails, or colombians, or...? Are colombians really THAT different? As in, different length/weight, different temp/humidity requirements, etc.?
    I'll probably be buying from one of my local chain pet stores... I know, that's a no-no, but I know someone who works at one that can get me a big discount, at the cost that the pet store actually pays for the snakes. Is that really a bad bad bad idea?
    I feel like such a clueless noob in the boa world :confusd: If they didn't all look so similar I'd be a lot better off right now haha

    It's usually Colombians or Central American boas that are sold in pet stores, but Colombians most likely.

    Colombians aren't that different, I keep them about the same as my other snakes though they seem to like a little cooler ambient temps. Count on at LEAST a 4' cage for an adult male Colombian, and maybe a 6' cage for large females.

    I would skip the pet store and put that money to a nice snake from a reputable breeder. Just my opinion, and you get more options that way: Colombians come in lots of morphs and you can look into the "dwarf" boas too (which also come in morphs). Even normal Colombians look better from (certain) breeders/sellers look better than the ones I've seen in pet stores.
  • 09-09-2012, 12:30 PM
    SeeTheCityLights
    I don't think we're that concerned about morphs. We'd rather save money on the boa, and put our money towards our balls because they're the ones we're going to be breeding/selling. The boa will just be our pet. :) Since we're really not concerned about the morphs and are happy with the looks of a normal pet store red tail, should we still pass? I know snakes from breeders are better quality, and I wouldn't buy my balls from a pet store (besides my first one, because he is just my little normal pet), but that's just because pet store ball morphs aren't too great looking.
    I talked to a guy who knows that pet store and can get me a discount, and he said that I could get a normal, a colombian, or a pastel. What is the difference between the normal and the colombian? Or are they the same? Orrrr should I go for a pastel? Will it be the same size as a normal/colombian, just different color? What size should I be expecting from a pet store RTB once it's an adult?

    and once he/she gets too big for the 20g I currently have, I will probably get a 6'x2' no matter if it's male or female, because I like to give them more room, but what about height? Should I get it 1' or 2' high? Do they like to climb or would it be a waste of money to get a 2'? I am personally all for a 2' high (it'll will be my display snake, so 2' gives me more room to make the cage look better) but I don't want to waste my money if they will never climb.
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