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Re: feeding problems
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Re: feeding problems
yea, a thermostat for the uth
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Re: feeding problems
no i was told it wasnt necessary because they dont get hot enough to hurt anything
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Re: feeding problems
wow, who ever told you that has no concern what so ever for a reptile, ignore all advice you was given at pets co or wherever, most of them do not care about reptiles and just tell you what you want to hear.
I would make that your absolute thing to do ASAP get a thermostat without the heat being controlled your snake could get burned and it could kill your snake, because you are using a dial thermometer your temps could be much over 100F without a thermostat which is a very bad thing which could lead to why your snake is always on the cold side and it could be getting stressed, i would immediately buy a thermostat and some digital equipment asap!
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Your first problem is you listened to people at Petco.
SRMD94 is right about the hides. But your snake not going ot the warm side tells me that the hotspot may be to hot. We need to know how and what your using to heat it and how you are measuring the temp? Do you have an under tank heater, if so, is it on a thermostat?
One way to make a hide feel smaller is to add moss just insided the enterance. This makes the hide feel snug and the door feel small but your snake can still easily enter and exit. This can also be dual purpose during shed time. During a shed you can keep the moss damp which will create a more humid hide and help your snake with its shed. Not wet moss, just damp. Mist it basically.
SRMD94 is also right about not trying to feed for 10-14 days. When your snake has a regurg it looses alot of the stomach acid needed to digest properly. It takes the snake a while to rebuild these and feeding to early will make it regurg again then causing a cycle.
About the feeder size. While it is true that a snake can eat something larger than its body it is not wise to feed it anything that is not close to its largest section of body. At most you should just barely be able to see a bump in your snake was it eats the prey.
Also on your first feeding coming back from a regurg it is suggested to feed prey half the size of its usual meal. This allows an easier meal just in case the acids are not back up to par. So if you were feeding a hooper next time try a fuzzy.
Get us your numbers so we can try to help you better.
Recap of whats needed:
Temp?
Heat source or sources? What used, what watt?
UTH? under tank heater
T-Stat? thermostat
Type of substrate? and thickness over the UTH if you have one?
What is your temp gauge? Tank wall thermo, strip thermo, temp gun?
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Re: feeding problems
well thats some terrible news haha i just unplugged the uth and im probably gonna go to PETCO today i guess.
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Yall covered alot while I typed that. I must be slow. lol
A regurg can also be caused be stress caused by over handling, do not handle your snake until you have a few good feedings. Most suggest 3.
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Re: feeding problems
Do you have a picture of your Set-up etc...?
if so could you upload it on to here so we can see it, and ye I would defiantly suggest getting the thermostat asap.
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If you are registering a temp of 93 on the wall your temps are way to hot. My wall stays around 80 and I have a hot spot of 90. If your using an unregulated(no tstat) zoo med uth it is again way to hot? My medium size one gets to 116 without a tstat.
You did good by unplugging it.
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Re: feeding problems
i have a 75 watt day bulb and a 50 watt night light bulb. i am going get digital therm/hyg. another rock hide. a t stat for UTH. and maybe some moss.
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