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Best t-stat for my setup?

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  • 07-07-2012, 01:34 AM
    kitedemon
    I'd recommend a failsafe for the VE200 it protects against T-stat failure (that is the advantage of the herpstat over and under protection and a secondary mechanical relay makes a failsafe questionable) The 200 is also a single probe the 300 is the dual. FYI. The hydrofarm makes an ok failsafe.

    http://images9.fotki.com/v114/photos...drawing-vi.jpgHosted on Fotki
  • 07-07-2012, 09:28 AM
    Mike41793
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by kitedemon View Post
    I'd recommend a failsafe for the VE200 it protects against T-stat failure (that is the advantage of the herpstat over and under protection and a secondary mechanical relay makes a failsafe questionable) The 200 is also a single probe the 300 is the dual. FYI. The hydrofarm makes an ok failsafe.

    http://images9.fotki.com/v114/photos...drawing-vi.jpgHosted on Fotki

    Im almost positive the VE's have a failsafe too. If the temps get too hot it kills itself.
  • 07-07-2012, 11:42 AM
    kitedemon
    The failsafe protects against a probe being pulled free of the heat location. The herpstat will shut off is the temp is too high (all do) but also if the temp drops below a user set point. I have looked at a VE300 and 200 a few times and read the instructions. Unless there is a large change in the past month or so there is only a single set point not a dual set point. The VEs also to my knowledge do not employ a mechanical relay (not listed in specs or promotional info) that is not subject to internal failure the same way. Unless there is a change the VE series is the most basic controllers on the market along with helix I never mentioned them as the OP was asking about dual zone.

    Again I would suggest a failsafe with any controller that did not have a high and low shut off point. I would consider a failsafe even with a herpstat because other issues can arise but it is questionable to me if it is necessary. To my perspective a failsafe is not optional if moving the probe to say the floor of the room will result in gross overheating.

    I am very disappointed in the VE series in general, there was an opportunity to advance the state of tech for herp keeping and instead they produced a 20 year old product (Helix) with a stackable case and software tweak. If you look at the features of the competitors, things like the relay and high low shut off points of the herpstat, the internet reporting and combination probes of the ecozone, night drops built in, heating cooling and humidity functions of the others. There was an opportunity to make something new and it was missed altogether. They also really need to produce complete specs! Shameful!! Personally I would NEVER buy anything if I did not know what the accuracy range is, it is not in the 'manual' (I don't own MS word so it opens with errors...) or on the web site. You have to send an email...

    I'll tell you what they don't it is 0.9ºF +/- from correct, this is actually the same as the others.
  • 07-07-2012, 03:04 PM
    Mike41793
    Kitedemon i understand most of your post but have a few q's. So what you are saying is that if the herpstat gets too hot it will turn itself off without destroying itself. A VE will do the same but it "fries" the internal components? Therefore making it useless afterwards. I can see why that would give herpstat an advantage. Also by dual zone you mean if the temp gets too low on a herpstat then that will shut off the power too? But that doesnt make sense to me. Why would you want the power killed if its too cold?
  • 07-07-2012, 06:36 PM
    kitedemon
    No if the heat pad gets too hat it shuts off. All t-stats do this the herpstats (duals zone models) will also shut off if the temp drops too low rather than continuing to heat the enclosure. All the others (as far as I know) require a fail safe to protect against over heating the enclosure if the probe is accidentally removed from the heat.

    The mechanical relay is naturally closed the electronics keep it open any failure in the control board will cause the relay to close. It should in theory fail closed not open. most triac controllers have at the very least an equal chance of failing open (heating or closed no heating) the new herpstats are more likely to fail and go cold rather than run the power maxed out. Again making a failsafe questionable. For myself I will NEVER run a T-stat that had a good chance of failing on and un regulated or if the probe being pulled free by accident meant the likely injury or death or anything it was regulating with out a fail safe in place.

    For my personal piece of mind a failsafe is not optional and the only time I would question the absolute necessity of it is the newer herpstats as the features make it many times less likely to ever run maxed out uncontrolled.
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