Vote for BP.Net for the 2013 Forum of the Year! Click here for more info.

» Site Navigation

» Home
 > FAQ

» Online Users: 864

3 members and 861 guests
Most users ever online was 47,180, 07-16-2025 at 05:30 PM.

» Today's Birthdays

None

» Stats

Members: 75,905
Threads: 249,102
Posts: 2,572,091
Top Poster: JLC (31,651)
Welcome to our newest member, Pattyhud

Temperature Question

Printable View

  • 06-19-2012, 12:39 AM
    kitedemon
    That is not typical behaviour for a UTH when the power is off they start to cool immediately. that is the base premise behind a pulse proportional, they cycle many times a second.

    The hydrofarms I have tested all run over the temp set. I suspect yours is as well. i tested the original series (3) and then got 6 more of the 'new improved' ones straight from hydrofarm the probe response cycle is a touch faster but past that are the same. The very best on off on the market shut down one over the set point. it is unlikely that hydrofarm has improved this, remember they are made to heat soil, and gel medium for seedlings the overage is likely designed into the unit due to the properties of soil.

    With small snakes I personally use a hot spot of 88º and cool of 79º with ambient air of 80º little ones generate heat when digesting and raise the hot hide temp up 2-4 is not uncommon. 91º starts to be a the highest end of ok given this. Big snakes are different 90/80 ambient 78-85º is fine.
  • 06-19-2012, 12:42 AM
    Chained
    Re: Temperature Question
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by martin82531 View Post
    The hydrofarm shuts off at 91 degrees which is what I have it set to, I think its just the "left over heat" from my UTH that admits and that gets the temp close to 93 degrees before the temp actually starts to drop.

    That's pretty much what it is. The on/off type of thermostat is running 100% until it reaches the desired temp, then turns off completely. what you are getting is the residual heat from the unit cooling down. Proportional thermostats actually lower and raise the amount of power needed to maintain a constant desired temp, so they are much more accurate.

    Honestly, the variation isn't so much that you need to worry. However, i would keep a good digital thermometer nearby, and check your warm end once in a while.

    For me, at this point in time, a 1 or 2 degree variation was worth saving the 85$ difference i would have paid for a proportional thermostat. Now once i get into breeding, i'll go all out and spend the big bucks and get a top of the line thermostat.
  • 06-19-2012, 12:44 AM
    kitedemon
    Are you checking your temps with a thermometer and not the hydrofarm itself? it is a slow response it takes time to read a change. You NEED to be using a thermometer to set the temps of the hydrofarm they should never be trusted. (clearly 3.4º high is an issue add the three more degrees... That one in the picture when set to 90 produces an average high temp of 95.7º)
  • 06-19-2012, 01:29 AM
    KMG
    Re: Temperature Question
    If you have the thermostat probe sitting on the bottom of your tank over the uth you need to remember the temp on the substrate will be alittle lower. Depending on what you use the temp maybe much lower. Check the substrate surface temp with a IR themometer. I got back into keeping snakes recently and once i got my IR temp gun and figured out how different the surface temps were compared to the ambient temp, my habiats have now become very accurate to the correct temps and having hot and cool zones.

    I live in Houston so its naturally pretty humid. I have a forty gallon tank with a uth that is not stuck directly to the bottom. It is very near but doesnt touch. With that and about 3/4 inch of shavins for substrate it is spot on 90°. I do have other lamps.

    I hate heat and keep my apartment at 68-70 at all times. With that i have to use a ceramic heater and set of low watt heat bulbs(they also are my day and night cycle). Even with the uth on the glass it didnt give me the proper temps. I added the extra help and placed the uth near the glass again, instead of on, and now my temps and humidty are perfect.(compared to most care sheets.)

    I do use light stands for a proper distance and made a cardboard cut out that fits the screen with a window for the heat and light to pass through. I covered that with foil and that helps trap my heat and humidty.

    I now have a zone from 78 to 91 in the tank.

    I have yet to find an accurate hydrometer for tanks so i use my calibrated one for my cigar humidor. With my overkill setup my numbers are spot on without a thermostat and therefor have no flux in temps.

    Im not against a thermostat i just haven't shelled out the money for a good one. The way i have mine set up the uth is unable to overheat my tank. Which i prefer.

    You can go to any hardware or office supply and buy little rubber pads/buffers to raise your tank just alittle. They are to prevent slipping or scratching of tabletops or furniture. They come in all sizes and materials.

    I prefer the naturalistic look and have live plants and a pretty complex set up. The plants will help keep humidity up if you are having a problem with that. I mist each morning.
  • 06-19-2012, 01:34 AM
    The Serpent Merchant
    Re: Temperature Question
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by KMG View Post
    If you have the thermostat probe sitting on the bottom of your tank over the uth you need to remember the temp on the substrate will be alittle lower. Depending on what you use the temp maybe much lower. Check the substrate surface temp with a IR themometer. I got back into keeping snakes recently and once i got my IR temp gun and figured out how different the surface temps were compared to the ambient temp, my habiats have now become very accurate to the correct temps and having hot and cool zones.

    I live in Houston so its naturally pretty humid. I have a forty gallon tank with a uth that is not stuck directly to the bottom. It is very near but doesnt touch. With that and about 3/4 inch of shavins for substrate it is spot on 90°. I do have other lamps.

    I hate heat and keep my apartment at 68-70 at all times. With that i have to use a ceramic heater and set of low watt heat bulbs(they also are my day and night cycle). Even with the uth on the glass it didnt give me the proper temps. I added the extra help and placed the uth near the glass again, instead of on, and now my temps and humidty are perfect.(compared to most care sheets.)

    I do use light stands for a proper distance and made a cardboard cut out that fits the screen with a window for the heat and light to pass through. I covered that with foil and that helps trap my heat and humidty.

    I now have a zone from 78 to 91 in the tank.

    I have yet to find an accurate hydrometer for tanks so i use my calibrated one for my cigar humidor. With my overkill setup my numbers are spot on without a thermostat and therefor have no flux in temps.

    Im not against a thermostat i just haven't shelled out the money for a good one. The way i have mine set up the uth is unable to overheat my tank. Which i prefer.

    You can go to any hardware or office supply and buy little rubber pads/buffers to raise your tank just alittle. They are to prevent slipping or scratching of tabletops or furniture. They come in all sizes and materials.

    I prefer the naturalistic look and have live plants and a pretty complex set up. The plants will help keep humidity up if you are having a problem with that. I mist each morning.

    Thermostats are necessary. There was recently a thread that showed that a unregulated UTH got the cage up to 108 degrees in just 2 hours. This is hot enough to cause neurological issues.
  • 06-19-2012, 01:48 AM
    KMG
    Re: Temperature Question
    I agree if the uth is on the glass.

    You helped me out when i started using my temp gun. You told me that then and i cut my uth off cause you thought it wasnt doing anything for my tank temps. When i cut it off i found the tanks temp dropped a good bit. The way i have my setup the uth is at full power but unable to overheat the tank because of the gap.

    If i had it mounted to the bottom of the tank i would make sure to have a thermostat. I really feel the way i have it now is safer. You may not agree but my numbers are constant and uth can not do any harm how it is.

    Play with one just laying under a tank. You will see it heats it up pretty well without touching it. Heat rocks were the way now its uth, maybe im a pioneer of the unattached uth. Lol

    If it works, it works.
  • 06-19-2012, 02:11 PM
    kitedemon
    It might work for you but there are a huge range of UTH heaters on the market producing various temps. I have a sample of industreal flexwatt (Holroyd rubber mat) that produces over 230ºC un regulated. Gap or no gap it would need a T-stat. You are making a blanket statement that simply is not always the case. If someone listens to your advice and their snake is badly burned how will you feel?

    UTH comes in a wide variety of wattages and heat out put I have from 4w to 1200w units, the low wattage ones maybe you could the high wattage you would be lucky if it didn't cause a fire and shatter the glass.

    UTHs need to be regulated!
  • 06-19-2012, 04:38 PM
    KMG
    Re: Temperature Question
    That is true. I wasn't trying to get anyone to setup their tank like mine, I was just telling what I found worked for me in my situation. Yes, I realize their are many different uth. Why would you use one that gets so hot? Flexwatt states:

    "Our products are custom designed to maintain critical temperatures that are frequently necessary in food and chemnical processing. Such temperatures may be necessary to maintain the integrity of a sensitive chemical, avoid scorching and flavor alteration of delicate flavorings or simply for freeze protection."

    That doesn't sound like a herp friendly product to me. I guess its great for pancakes but I would just use a hot plate, lol. I didn't think about people using mega uth. Mine is just a regular one that suits my needs perfect. In the future I will state that I am only using products purpose built for herps.

    I would hope that nobody would use one like you described. Not only for the animal but your home. Sounds dangerous.
  • 06-20-2012, 12:00 AM
    kitedemon
    I use it as it is intended for melting plastics. That is not the point. You quoting flexwatt is a bit hypocritical isn't it? Flexwatt should never be run unregulated, it is hotter than the suggested max sustained operational temp. It is interesting you mention a product that simply should NEVER be used with out a thermostat.
  • 06-20-2012, 06:41 AM
    KMG
    Re: Temperature Question
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by kitedemon View Post
    Ihave a sample of industreal flexwatt (Holroyd rubber mat) that produces over 230ºC un regulated.

    I think that is the point. Are we discussing melting plastic or uth? You were talking about a product not intended as a uth in a uth convo.
    And I didn't mention it. You did. I just looked it up and stated what their product page said. So why are you telling me how hot it can get as a uth if its not intended for that use? I guess I could make a whole list of items that need a t-stat that are not intended for use as a uth to prove they would get to hot as a uth without one. I'll start with my hotplate, it can be a uth, melt plastic, and make pancakes. Thats a win, win for you.
Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v4.2.1