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Top Poster: JLC (31,651)
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Runit, I'm sure he feels better now. A digital meter is definitely a good idea when you can pick one up, but low-tech soaking is good too. I'm glad it helped. :)
Next time when you see his eyes go blue/grey, you know it's time to bump up the humidity and/or start the soaks. If the snake is actually dehydrated (is the skin loose? any denting to the eyes? is it lethargic?), it would be a good idea to keep the soaking up until it looks better or eats again.
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I'm having a hard time keeping the humidity up too. I'm using a 30 gallon long glass tank with reptile bark, a cermanic water dish, and a large hide-hut. The temp on the hot side is about 80 degrees average, but the humidity is around 40%. I use a infared light 24/7. I think it's too dry for my ball in there. She's never had a complete shed, and it always come off in blotches. I just gave her a bath, I think that helps. What should I do?
~BallPython713 8)
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The temps on the warm side are about 10-12 degrees too low. Do you have an UTH (under tank heater)? I'm sure that just using the light bulb is the reason it is so low. Light's also dry out the cage in my experiences, so if you could, get two 10 gallon UTH's, and get rid of the light. Put one on the warm end on medium heat, and one on the cool end on low heat. The temps need to be about 78-82 on the cool side, and about 87-92 on the warm side. If your ball python gets too cold, it could cause a respiratory infection. How are you monitoring these temps/ humidity?
Do you have a screen lid for the cage, or..? There are several things you can do to bump the humidity up (which needs to be around 50%-60%, and up to 75% when she is in shed). Let me know. :)
Jennifer
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How are you measuring your temps and humidity? If you don't know for a fact that they're right, you should get something accurate to tell you.
If your readings are right, get rid of the light altogether or switch it to a lower wattage (40 or 50) and that should be a good start. Next, make sure you have an under tank heater or human heat pad (without auto shutoff) to provide heat and get those warm side temps up 10 degrees on the floor. Put the ceramic water dish partly on the UTH/heatpad, and the hide partly on it, too. Add another hide on the cool side, which should be about 80F on the floor. If you have a screen top for your tank, cover 1/2 to 3/4 of it with a non-porous material (plastic sheeting, duct tape, saran wrap, wax paper, etc.) to help hold the humidity in.
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LOL, Jennifer. Great minds and all that.
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;) They work alike and consistently, eh?
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Thanks for all the input. I have two ZooMed thermometers (one on the warm end and one on the cool end), and a ExoTera hydometer (stationed in the middle). I also have a screentop. I had heard that my ball might be getting syntoms of RI so I'll make sure I increase the heat/humidity.
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Are the ZooMed thermometers those stick on kind? If they are, they aren't really accurate, especially if they aren't "snake level" (i.e, about an inch above the substrate). I would really suggest buying a temperature gun, as well as a UTH with a rheostat or thermostat on it, so you know the EXACT temps you are distributing to the ball python.
Good luck. :)
Jennifer
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Could I still use a low watt regular household bulb for a display light?
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