Need advice about heating a 4' wide tank

Slim. I'm o. A hurry here today so sorry for not having read your question at the bottom. I have only two reasons for wanting glass. #1) I have it already #2) I want a glass front. That's it.


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Thanks. I'll look it up.


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If I wanted the display which is what it seems you want then animal plastics or something of the same style would be great. Most offer a divider so you can house two snakes. I would suggest using a radiant heat panel for ambients since it shouldn't dry out like the heat lamps do.

Hrmm. So do these 48" long cages hold just one snake or two? Are those the ones that have the dividers? I'm about to puke I'm so sick of talk about dividers. But would those dividers block disease? Would it be best to go with two separate 24" cages.

Almost wish I didn't have the tanks at all so I would have seen these ages ago.
I like them!


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Originally Posted by Manasha-Bogo

I have a divided 75g tank/vivarium to heat. The bottom is glass and 18"x48". I'm buying 2' of 11" flex watt and putting this in the center of the tank. Will likely need to be cut down to 16" to make it 1/3 the length of the tank. But I want to test it at a full 2' length first because the tank is going to be directly under an AC vent (altho the vent not pointed at the tank).

Anyway, I know I'm going to need two misters (one for each side) because maintaining humidity isn't going to be easy.

So here's my questions.

I was originally going to put the single piece of flexwatt in the middle (under the tank) and control it with a single thermostat for both halves, but since the tank will be split in half (with plexiglass) should I split the flexwatt and control them separately?

And knowing the above, what thermostat/humidistat would be the best to handle all of this? (two heaters, two misters)

I've looked at hygrotherm and herpstat 2 & 4. Two hygrotherms would be cheaper than a single herpstat4. But is there some advantage over getting a herpstat4 that's worth the $250 difference? I do want a solution that will last for many years. Are they both as good quality?

How far away from a wooden stand should the tank be to prevent this from becoming a fire hazard? I've read about someone taping styrofoam against the flexwatt underneath. Is that not dangerous??

Aaand finally. Is there something I can put between the tank and wooden stand to fireproof the stand?

Thanks!!


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It's do-able, but putting all the elements of heating and humidity is going to be hard work.

1) Misters are bad. They seem to put out too much moisture at a given time. Most of the time everything becomes soaked or turned into a 'rain forest' type of environment. Definitely not for an African native snake. Also, the huge amounts of moisture tends to promote scale rot.

2)flexwatt in the middle will work for belly heat. You can probably use one thermostat this way. Just make sure to get a thermometer for each side of the divider.(Not the stick on dial kind. Digital is the best)

However, like everyone else said, depending on what temperature your ambient temp is, the rest of the tank is most likely going to be too cold unless you have a Heat Emitter or Lamp. Anything under 75 has the potential to give a snake Respiratory Infection.

3) Hygrotherm is not as precise, accurate, or reliable as a Herpstat or other higher end brands. The risk of failing is much higher. A good quality thermostat is THE most important piece of equipment for your set up. It's what keeps your snake alive by regulating it's heat source. Plus a high quality thermostat will have a longer running life than cheaper brands. It's a good investment that will last you years.

4) Styrofoam is bad because it traps and retains heat. By trapping heat, the thermostat reader is most likely not going to run accurately as it is reading the incorrect temperature. This will keep the flexwatt cooler than what it's suppose to be because the thermostat is thinking it's hot.

5) You need a space between the tank and stand. I think wooden blocks or spacers will work fine. (like 2 pieces of wood running across 2 sides under the tank or something. That way there is enough air flow)

But I agree with everyone that maintaining such a great tank will be difficult.
You have better luck with a pre-made vivarium.

Check this Animal Plastics Cage set up Thread:
http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...l+plastic+cage

It has the aesthetics of a tank. There is no screen top so no lost humidity. It's made out of PVC so it holds humidity and heat really well. It comes with a SOLID divider. You can use flexwatt down the middle like you wanted to. And it's low(T8 model). No wasted head space. Balls don't need a lot of height space as they are a terrestrial snake. If I had more space in my room and didn't have a rack, I would buy this cage for my snakes. Glass tanks are just too much work to clean. I had a 20 gallon tank before and I just had the hardest time lifting it (Empty!)

The radiant heat panel is an option that will benefit if your house is too cold.

I would PM The Serpent Merchant if you have any questions about Animal Plastics Cages.

Is one T8 the recommended size for 2 snakes? What about the taller ones like T9 and T10 ?

T11 seems too tall.

I want to get this done by Friday. How fast do they ship?

Anybody in s. Florida like to buy a 75g aquarium? Lol!


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Manasha-Bogo

Is one T8 the recommended size for 2 snakes? What about the taller ones like T9 and T10 ?

T11 seems too tall.

I want to get this done by Friday. How fast do they ship?

Anybody in s. Florida like to buy a 75g aquarium? Lol!


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I would talk to Aaron (The Serpent Merchant). He has 2 different models and seems to be our forum expert on these cages. haha.

I hear they ship relatively fast. But the order comes in 2 shipments. One for the enclosure and one for the glass door and lights. (I believe)

http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...=cage+pictures

Alright. I'm scrapping the tanks and going with a PVC cage. I'm on a long ride back home now and so I'm trying to get it all planned out in the next few hours. ;)

I'm so excited!! Lol!

So I'm thinking of going with the T10, black, with swing out doors, pop in/out divider, and door locks (kids).

Two undecided things; heating and lighting.

Lighting: I want lighting, but would a fluorescent light throw off the temps in there? Or should I go with LED??

Heating: radiant heat panels sounds more like what I need to get ambient heat. The basicreptiles site says that a 40 watt rhp is good for a 2'x4'x1'. But this won't work in a divided tank, right? I'm gonna need one for each side. In a 2'x4'x15" cage, will I need two 28 watt rhps?

I also want to use a thin layer if substrate on the bottom.



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One other thing. My male likes to climb. He usually climbs up on a hammock I threw into the 55g on the cool side. But everything I've read says balls don't like to climb. So why does he climb so much? Thx!


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