Ball Pythons Won't Eat

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Originally Posted by bfirecat

What is a good way to bump the ambient temperature up?

Do i just add another heat pad? Or should I just move the snakes over to a smaller tub and have the hot spot heat pad cover more of the tank?

Thanks!

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Since you only have 2 BPs (I think), a space heater to warm the entire room is probably overkill. If you aren't opposed to higher heating bills, you can bump your house/apartment thermostat a few degrees. You can insulate three sides and 3/4 of the top of the tank with cardboard or some type of sheeting - glass does not hold heat in well (I recommend this even if you heat your house some more). If these don't do the trick, place a ceramic heat bulb or infrared bulb outside the cage and regulate it with a thermostat to get the proper ambient temps.

What size enclosure are they in, if downsizing is a 15qt? Are they housed together or separately?

I agree with the recommendations to stick with the prey that the breeders was feeding before trying to switch them to what you want to feed - baby steps.

Thanks again for all the replies.

They are housed in separate 32qt sterilite tubs.
I just got a space heater and set it to 80, going to leave them alone for a couple days before I give them a live rat pup each, hopefully they take them now...

If not, then I will move them over to the 15qt tubs (which is what the breeder recommended).

Thanks!

I am also new to ball pythons (actually snakes period). I tried two unsuccessful feedings with my 7 months old. I was attempting to feed F/T as well and she showed very little interest. The breeder was feeding live as is yours. I waited the acclimation period as well of almost two weeks. It was pointed out that it is a lot of change for the snake to go through in a short amount of time. New cage, new environment, noises, smells etc. Now a new food source. It may be a little too much to change everything.

It was suggested to me to keep feeding what the breeder was feeding her for the first 6 feedings or so until she is very comfortable and then slowly change her over to F/T. After 6 or more feedings of live, try freshly killed (pet stores will sometimes assist if that is too hard for you), then after a few successes try offering F/T. I plan to follow this advise.

I tried offering a live rat last Saturday and after a few minutes BANG! I was the happiest pet owner on the face of the earth! Last night was the second live feeding and it went even easier. I stand over like a hawk with an unsharpened pencil and tongs handy incase the rat claws or bites while being constricted but it has gone well so far. I still plan to move over to F/T. It is more important to me that she eats regularly then how she eats but to each his own. Just thought I would share because that took a world of stress off of me.

I hope it works out well for you. Good luck!

Just an update for you guys!

I tried feeding at night again with the frozen thawed.
The bumblebee and pastel showed no interest again.

I left the warm rat pups inside their hide box and came back 2 hours later.
The bumblebee left her's alone, but the pastel took his!

So good news is the pastel ate one, then a second one right after!
The bad news is the bumblebee still isn't eating...

And yes, they are in separate tubs =P

that is a start. Did you say the breeder was feeding live? if so you may want to try the bee live. If not just keep the temps spot an and give it some time and try again.

If your are worried I will second Kitedemon's advise regarding attempting live feeding with the bumblebee. I really wanted to feed F/T too but once she took a live twice enthusiastically I knew it was just too much change too fast. I figure it is more important that she is feeding every week for a while until trying to switch her over on to F/T. I still want to switch her over but just in time.

Glad your pastel took it. Your half way there now!

Here's a tip you can try

First off you should stop handling your BP once you realise it's off feed, this can sometimes be a sign of stress.

TIP:
Place the prey item in the BP's enclosure and cover the enclosure with a towel to make it dark.

Check a few hours to see if your BP ate.

My BP was off feed for 9 weeks for the first time in her life in 10 years and this was just an idea that hit me, I tried it and it worked.

Thanks to Morgan from Home Grown Scales for all the advice. She answered every question I threw at her and in a timely manner.

Before live for the bee I would try fresh Kill. Might be the temps are not right, might be that they were previously on mice and not rats.

My normal was on mice when I got him, went right to rats and now will not touch mice.

they are extremely picky you just have to find that niche and you will be good !

times of day matter nothing to my guys as I feed them on my schedule, day or night.

sometimes I have also noticed size matters... Maybe try something a little bigger it brings out that "Oh Shyte if I don't eat it it might eat me" thing !! then once they eat they realize oh man that wasn't bad ;)

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Originally Posted by bfirecat

The breeder said they were feeding on live rat pups every 5-7 days or so.

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Personally if this is what the bee was eating this is exactly what I'd try.Not P/K not mice or anything other than what the animal had been eating before. Wait a couple of weeks and try again be patient. You might want to record the bee's weight just so you can keep an eye on the over all health.

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Originally Posted by kitedemon

personally if this is what the bee was eating this is exactly what i'd try.not p/k not mice or anything other than what the animal had been eating before. Wait a couple of weeks and try again be patient. You might want to record the bee's weight just so you can keep an eye on the over all health.

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