UTH & Thermostates?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by LGray23

Exo Terra? I doubt it. How are you reading the temps. I must add that my small 8 watt Zoo Med read well over 130 degrees, and that's measured with my accurate temp gun over a square of a paper bag over the glass over the UTH.

---

I tried two methods to measure the temperature. One, I used a temp gun on the top of the glass. This resulted in a reading of 90.5F. Second method, not as accurate I realize as there is an air gap, but I just jammed a stick thermometer between the UTH and the bottom of the glass. This resulted in a reading of 88.5. I tried a third thermometer, a stick, that was calibrated yesterday and it read 92F.

Do the 'Desert' UTH got hotter than the 'Tropical' UTH or did I get a malfunctioning unit?

It's either malfunctioned or they are being read inaccurately. Temp guns are inaccurate when reading on a "shiny" surface like glass, and not sure about the other thermometers or what you mean by "stick thermometer". Do you mean like ones we use to take our own temps when sick?

There are a lot of different types ultartherms are designed and limited to 110 max and most will not get over 100 still to hot for long term but safe short term. Not all are like this the 'rainforrest' ones are low wattage and 88 seems low my old one used to hit 96 but it would depend GREATLY on room temps.

Ambient temps must never be discounted when dealing with temps. This is the reason why thermostats they adjust the power based on the temps not just limited by power. The trouble with the rainforrest ones and to a lesser degree ultratherms, is if you have cool temps say 72º they may only produce a max of 85º (guessing figures only for example) at a room temp of 80 it may produce 98 maybe more (it is more efficient to heat from warmer temps it has not in my experience been a straight sliding scale)

looking at you direct sample 88º if the room temp drop 4-6º your questionable hot spot (88 is fine for little snakes a bit cool for adults) will drop as well and the hot spot will be gone assuming the ambient air temp in the enclosure drops with the room temp so say you have 70-80 temps if this was for a length of time you could have a sick snake on your hands. The power of the uth is not enough to over come the ambient temps. The same happens on the high end.

It is a balance between wattage of the UTH and safety. Thermostats allow higher wattage's to be used and are able to over come dropping room temps easily and maintain correct temps. The risk is if the T-stat fails or probe gets pulled the UTH can cause high temps and burn the snake badly. Either is a risk, it is a balance. Personally I don't like to use a t-stat with out a fail safe one as well. My room temps vary a lot and the range of temps I can handle before the enclosures change is quite large (63º-84º or so.) Limited wattage systems (either by panel or rheostat) require absolutely stable room temps to work and if the room temp changes the system fails. this is a hard balance to maintain.

I hope this clears up things for you. I would always recommend T-stats as they are more flexible and can provide a high level of safety on both high and low end. restricted power system provide a measure of safety on the high end but nothing on the low.

Reduced wattage systems also are hard to balance for a beginner because it is working in your room it may (likely will not) in another. That makes it an unsafe recommendation.

Yes Desert ones are twice the wattage. I believe the middle size one is 4 watts where the same size desert is 8 or 10 watts much more heat. No I do not believe yours is malfunctioning they do not get hot and are very similar to the ultratherm ones from UK.