Got a humidifier..but does it work too well?

I got my pics uploaded but I cant seem to figure out why theyre all upside down.. They are saved right side up so I dont know. But heres My set up. I hate to say it man but Id like to avoid a tub set up, if I can avoid it. Hense why I am looking for an alternative method of providing humidity during her shed...

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You need to cover the screen. take piece of plexiglass, a towel, alum foil and cover the screen leaving just a spot where the heat lamp can heat down in still. This will increase your humidity.

Heat and moisture rise, and with a open screen lid with too much airflow will be impossible to keep it right.

Dude did you read my original post at all? As I stated. I removed the plastic wrap that covered part of the screen lid to let some of the humidity caused by the humidifier leave the tank as the humidity level with the covering made it too humid.. I didnt put it back on for the pictures.

Dude, you not read my post, You dont need the humidifier in the tank. Excessive moisture will cause scale rot. There NEVER a need to have one in a tank.

Take it out, put the plastic back on and run the humidifier OUTSIDE. If your humidity is still a problem, ditch the light or go to a tub. Thts your only options.

1)If I were running it every day that would be viable. But I am not.
2) I do not think a tub is necessary, or aesthetically pleasing.
3) Scale rot happens when its far too moist for far too long. Not when you have a 60-70% humidity for an hour at a time over the course of the last few days of shed.
4)The humidifier is personal size. far tooo small to be used outside the tank and still make any positive change. I dont see why the humidifier being in the tank is the issue here. It blunt on all sides, the chord is protected from moisture and is taped to the wall with electrical tape so she cant even mess with it. and it is INACTIVE except for when I am running it. DURING SHED.

Your advice so far hasnt been related to the question I asked at all. My concern was never with my set up. It was from the beginning, will this hurt my snake in the context that I am using it. Not my heat scource, not my lid, not my enclosure.

Your putting a electric device inside with an animal that will investigate it. Things can and will go wrong eventually. They are determined to figure it out and knock it over.

And i addressed your setup cause its off, if you need to put a humidifier inside a cage while using a heat lamp. That right there is a disaster waiting to happen and should tell you something is off. The heat lamp dries everything out, get rid of it and you wont need the humidifier.

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What I can to is build a square of of plexi glass drills holes enough for the humidity to leave the square, and simply have it open for access. That way she cant interact with it.

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While under tank heaters are good for belly warmth they can also burn the snake. Not to mention without a heat lamp, she cannot bask. I feel she can better thermoregulate by having a basking surface under a heat lamp, a hide underneath if she wantws to be hidden and warm but not as hot as if she were basking, and a cool side. I feel that provides a better gradiant that youll find with an UTH.

Again my heat lamp is not what ive been asking about. Ive been trying to determine. Whether my humidifier is safe to have for her. and if her having access to it is the only problem here, and I have a soultion for that as I stated, than quoted in this upper part of this post. Than case closed. IM satisfied with using it.

Ok I am going to chime in. I believe this is a battery operated model? It is also an U/S style as well correct? There should be no problem with its use during a shed. They are quite notorious for bacteria over time and need to be cleaned SUPER well REGULARLY. I would also be concerned about spillage.

I use room humidifiers to hold humidity and opt for ventilation over stagnation. I don't like tubs for small collections as they really need to be in warm rooms not cool ones like what is common to small a snake or two collections. Exchanging humidity problems for heating problems is not wise, humidity is generally not a life threat where as temps can be.

Ideally you won't need the humidifier I think it is a band aid solution to a complex problem. It will work but I feel there are better approaches. The idea of the animal basking is not generally correct with Royals they don't tend to unless there is a gradient issue. That being said UTH do not help ambient air temps much or at all so often in cool room situations a secondary heat is needed.

I have a a couple of suggestions the first one is a bit of work but often solves the ambient temp issues and can go a long way to solve the humidity issue. The open top is the problem you loose heat and humidity to the top. Covering the top is not something I like to suggest tanks do not vent well as it is and restricting that down more can lead to problems. The real issue is there is too much height.

I can up with this design, it is one way but this kind of treatment can solve both the addition of a light inside the enclosure (fluorescent light) adds lots on ambient temps and insulating it a bit helps to keep it.


http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...arium-Solution

Coco coir (eco earth) substrate adds tons of humidity it may be an alternative that can help too. Humid hides also can solve the problem too. They are the easiest but you are left with what looks to be an ambient temp issue. Your choice there is no hard and fast answer every case is different.

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Originally Posted by kitedemon

Ok I am going to chime in. I believe this is a battery operated model? It is also an U/S style as well correct? There should be no problem with its use during a shed. They are quite notorious for bacteria over time and need to be cleaned SUPER well REGULARLY. I would also be concerned about spillage.

I use room humidifiers to hold humidity and opt for ventilation over stagnation. I don't like tubs for small collections as they really need to be in warm rooms not cool ones like what is common to small a snake or two collections. Exchanging humidity problems for heating problems is not wise, humidity is generally not a life threat where as temps can be.

Ideally you won't need the humidifier I think it is a band aid solution to a complex problem. It will work but I feel there are better approaches. The idea of the animal basking is not generally correct with Royals they don't tend to unless there is a gradient issue. That being said UTH do not help ambient air temps much or at all so often in cool room situations a secondary heat is needed.

I have a a couple of suggestions the first one is a bit of work but often solves the ambient temp issues and can go a long way to solve the humidity issue. The open top is the problem you loose heat and humidity to the top. Covering the top is not something I like to suggest tanks do not vent well as it is and restricting that down more can lead to problems. The real issue is there is too much height.

I can up with this design, it is one way but this kind of treatment can solve both the addition of a light inside the enclosure (fluorescent light) adds lots on ambient temps and insulating it a bit helps to keep it.


http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...arium-Solution

Coco coir (eco earth) substrate adds tons of humidity it may be an alternative that can help too. Humid hides also can solve the problem too. They are the easiest but you are left with what looks to be an ambient temp issue. Your choice there is no hard and fast answer every case is different.

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-As far as cleanliness goes, like most things, I clean after use with antibacterial wipes. I dont like to use any harder substances on things like waterdishes or in this case that would become an inhalant. So diligence is all thats necessary there.

-I find that enclosure design extremely intreging. I see how it would help keep a terrarium humid, and cutting/drilling plexi glass isnt at all difficult. I may just have to give that a try = P

- Ive been toying around with the idea of flexwatt as an alternate heat scource, but I cant seem to decide how I would place it. I have heard of fire risks by putting it underneath of the tank, and im not sure how logically sound it would be to place it anywhere else. Any input?

-Also, I dont have an extreme amount of experience with royals as im still fairly new to this. But in the eight months that Ive had mine, id say shes spent a balanced amount of time between her basking area, warm hide and cool hide. I temp gub the three areas often. They are alcomst always Basking-89, Inside of warm hide-80, and her cool end is almost always-76. So I think the Gradient is alright.

I dont consider it so much of a bandaid. Everything else about her enclosure it on point. I just have trouble getting her humidity to stay at a good level while she's shedding. A misting one or twice a day takes care of the normal humidity level. Im really interested in that enclosure design though. Im going to take a look at the rest of that thread.

There is a lot of information on ultra sonic humidifiers and bacteria just google it. Some say daily cleaning I don't know but mine I have just replaced as it simply takes tons of time. I have 2 tanks currently and 3 enclosures and a 5 hole rack. One tank is turned one not. The ambient humidity in my place where the open top tank is 22% the open top tank is this morning 58% and I do not mist more than once every two weeks. It is balanced temps and humidity, I have an open screen lid with no foil and no plastic just some cloth on it (dry never wet) It can be done daily misting and such is not needed if you get it exactly right.

The side turned tank makes it easier to get balance that is all it takes a small moving target and makes it a bigger stable one. Balance is needed in all systems, air flow, temps, humidity are all linked and all effect each other.

It is not really normal for Royals to expose them selves in the open they prefer to use a warm spot over an open basking area like a desert lizard would they are a nocturnal species. If your animal is choosing to bask it is selecting temp over security not all will some more timid ones will choose security over temps and that effectively means health. You are lucky you have a bold snake otherwise you would likely have a sick one. If it is working for you great that is cool just keep in mind it may not work if you had a different animal that will not lay out in the open ever. I have one that is super timid and she would quite literally die first. *0 cool 90 warm and 79-85 ambient air is ideal. Let me guess your room temps are about 75-2ºF? Cool rooms make balance harder for sure.

I have flex watt on a tank and would not recommend it. The problem is it is taped at the sides to the tank but the centre sags down so I get a warmer ring and a cooler centre by a few degrees I am concerned by the uneven heating of glass it has a tendency to crack under that kind of condition. I plan on changing it soon.