Male and Female normals

While I agree that it can be done if done correctly it is usually alot more than just a good sized tank, heat, and a few hides. I think if you want to do and do it the correct way so much mire research, and talking to folks that actually do it for years with no issues and talk to them about their experiences. They I'm sure are out there. What I will say is that most multiple tanks are not done with balls. Balls are a solitary species. They are also a competitive species. They'll compete with their own kind for food, heat, hiding, security etc. They don't realize That you are providing it. For me personally, i find the husbandry is easier With tubs. Easier for me to provide all the correct heat, humidity etc.
Even though breakdowns don't have to be done often I do them about every 3 months it is easier with tubs. I've used tanks and a complete sanitization is a pita with a 20 gallon. But even harder with a multiple animal 50 gallon. I also like to record defecations,sheds, regurges, things like that. Who does it is never the question with a one animal set up. It's known. Illnesses are another factor. With a multiple tank you'll be treating both. With separate only one. It's a precaution I like to take. Especially with the cost of vets I'm not into paying double. There's also other factors like stress lowers their immune system making 1 susceptible for illness that the other could catch. Stress will often cause fasts. Not a good habit to get in to. Accidents can and will always happen with any animal. With reptiles especially they are all instinct. Oh I smell food need to eat. Bamm 1 accidentally grabbing and constricting the other. For me the risk out weighs the convenience, or show factor, whatever.
It doesn't add up to me. Anyways this is all my experiences. I've done a two animal setup. It didn't work. That Was in my very unknowing early days. I learned the hard way. Treating two Ris at the same time taught me immediately. I hope this helps.

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Yes. It is a more of a "it can be done but not recommended" approach. Especially for beginners. I wrote a well received post a few weeks ago on the subject. It basically boils down to them not being social aside from breeding. The risks taken with multiple housing should be done fully educated. Zoos, universities, and advanced keepers such as ViperKeeper how multiples together. They have years if not decades of experience and understand the risks involved and are prepared to deal with them.

Most of us know the risks and chose not to take them.

I'm also confuse about the carpet heat pad thing. Is that inside the tank? I'd take it out ASAP. I'd also be worried about a potential fire hazard. Fiber, heat , not good. Heat does need to be on a thermostat. They get hot like over 100.f hot. I've seen one clock in at 160.f. That will fry any herp.


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You say you think it's too small after cluttering it with hides and a water bowl... That's the point. BPs prefer small spaces. They are not a display snake like a boa or carpet python. Not in the slightest. A happy BP is a hidden BP. They spend their entire lives in a small underground rodent burrow or termite mound. They do not like wide open spaces.

That is why we are telling you that the majority of BPs, out of the thousands that are kept as pets out there, are not eating as well as they could or should be because they are not as comfortable and secure as they could be. The thing about BPs is you can not over feed them. Unlike most other snakes, you can feed a BP a proper sized meal every 5-6 days if you want, and if it will take it because at some point that BP will go on a fast. Wether it's a females 1000 gram fast, a males breeding season fast or anything in between, it will most likely happen. Other snakes can become obese but we want to fatten our BPs up. For some reason, they never seem to eat too much or get too fat as long as you put enough days between feedings to allow for digestion.

So if your snakes are long and slender and look snake-like, (your female at least) then they may not be the ideal size and weight and may not be eating as well as you think they are.

BPs do not show stress in the way that mammals would.

In terms of housing, BPs are the one snake where smaller is better. I would never say that for most other snakes.

the heating pad that I am using has a auto shut off on it. Has five heat settings and I use the second one. Have been using that for almost two months now with no problem. Shuts off automatically, carpet feels slightly warm and not hot. By dividing the crate I will be putting a 2x2 piece of plywood covered on both sides with contact paper or maybe simply clutter the big one up with plants and water and hides etc. No problem with the tank it is small and with a water bowl and hide it is good.

Still have no idea how to tell if a snake is stressed or not. My male usually just stays in the hide while my female at night gets active and then settles down later in the evening.

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Originally Posted by Deepsouth

the heating pad that I am using has a auto shut off on it. Has five heat settings and I use the second one. Have been using that for almost two months now with no problem. Shuts off automatically, carpet feels slightly warm and not hot. By dividing the crate I will be putting a 2x2 piece of plywood covered on both sides with contact paper or maybe simply clutter the big one up with plants and water and hides etc. No problem with the tank it is small and with a water bowl and hide it is good.

Still have no idea how to tell if a snake is stressed or not. My male usually just stays in the hide while my female at night gets active and then settles down later in the evening.

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But how are you reading the temps? And if the carpet feels "slightly warm" that means it is warmer than 98.6 degrees, which is what temp your body runs....which is too hot for a ball python.

I have a digital thermometer directly above the carpet that has the heating pad under it. By warm I mean when I put my hand on it, it feels warm. Like a warm towel. I have placed a thermometer on it and and it was only about 80 or so. Not to hot for the snake. Loves it and the basking light. Right now she is hide behind all the plants in a nice dark corner of the cage. She prefers that to her hide.
Based on a comment about my female I will be going and getting food tomorrow, she ate three days ago and he ate four days ago. I will try slightly larger prey this time.

I think by dividing the cage it will also help with my humidity problem. Since a large 4x2x2 is hard to heat and get proper moisture. Will keep everybody posted and thanks so much for all the help.

Please though somebody tell me how to tell if a snake is stressed.

Just don't think that we are getting on you or anything. We really are just trying to help and I'm glad you're wanting to make some improvements.

For properly monitoring temps just run to Walmart and in the section where you find tools, paint, DIY, find the outdoor thermometers.. Look for the smallish grey rectangular one called the accurite weather station. It has a probe on a long cord. It reads 2 temps and the humidity. Place this directly inside the enclosure on the cool side. Put the probe on top of the heat mat on the hot side.

The "outside" temp on the screen will be the probe reading of the hot side. This should be 90 degrees give or take a couple degrees.

The "inside" temp will be your cool side/ambient temp reading which should be 80 degrees give or take.

The humidity should be at least 50% or above. 65-70% is preferable during the week of shedding.

If these temps are not reached and maintained, your snakes will be stressed. Wether they show signs or not. They will be unable to properly digest their food, fight off illness, and more likely to get an RI.

The gauge you are talking about is what I have. I guess I should read directions on how to get two readings on it. It shows only one temp plus the time plus humidity. I have the probe on the wall just above the heating pad and it is reading between 80-85 and that is on medium heat. Will raise it to the third light and monitor heat every 15 minutes to see what it reads. Since the one that I purchased seems to only show one temp, will get another digital for the cool side to check that. Will get large tank correct prior to dividing it in half.

I am thinking of closing off bottom half of screen to see if I can raise humidity. Is not at 50 % even with misting. Although I had a BP many years ago for almost three years with nothing but a aquarium light and top on it and a glass bottom. Snake ate great, shed well and never had a problem.
I am not a breeder nor do I want to be. I am a photographer and have the snakes as props. All my models seem to want to shoot with snakes. :)

But since I have them I want to make sure they are healthy and happy.

wow F thanks for the info. Just went and checked and sure enough two temps are available.
Inside 81.7
Outside 73.8
humidity is at 53.1%

That is with the heat lamp off and the heating pad down to one. So at level two I am thinking it will fall into the range you are talking about. Will keep you posted more tomorrow.
Again thanks for all the help