WOBBLE in my Normal(?) Bp?

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Originally Posted by RichsBallPythons

Pythons that get IBD die in matter of days. Normals being clutch mates to spiders will inherit the spider gene wobble, its not possible.

When normals act like that its usually there from incubation mishap and or heating mis hap in the rack/cage. Over heating causes neurological damage in snakes that results in some funky body movements.

Chemical exposure can also of happened sometime during its life time as well. Mal nourishment ive yet to see it cause that but it can be a possibility but unlikely.

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Hi, if the wobble/funky movements were caused by overheating, will the snake recover or get better when the heating problem is corrected? Thanks in advance.

I keep getting conflicting reports from people. RichsBallPythons and many others says no on spider breeding wobble (in non spider offspring) but I've had others say several different things. So I'm confused. Apparently womas can wobble too. Anyone with more input?

It's hard to pinpoint issues with animals when you have a vague background. I hope everything works out. Good luck to the little guy!

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Originally Posted by ace_singapore

Hi, if the wobble/funky movements were caused by overheating, will the snake recover or get better when the heating problem is corrected? Thanks in advance.

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No. Severe overheating in snakes can lead to permanent neurological damage.

I would not focus too much on IBD. Neurological symptoms are indicative of just about every major bacterial and viral infection that a snake can get. Chemical exposure, overheating, malnourishment, etc. can cause the same symptoms. Other animals just hatch out odd - often due to issues during incubation.

Plus, IBD more often than not, presents with a series of subclinical or unresolvable acute infections - chronic stomatitis, chronic RI, chronic skin infections, etc.

No one knows how long a snake can live with IBD. The old tidbit that balls and other pythons succumb quickly doesn't hold water anymore. Some animals can remain asymptomatic indefinitely. Others, like my friend's pet ball, have been fighting it for over two years - as a series of recurrent RIs and gastritis...and yes, that snake was confirmed IBD positive by a live biopsy.

No one here is a vet, and as such, you need to take any information (even mine) with a grain of salt.

What I would recommend you do is this:

1. Take the snake to a specialized reptile vet. However be forewarned that neurological issues are not only hard to diagnose, but also to treat. Unless the vet is able to find other symptoms that point to something definitive, I would go into the appointment resigned that they won't find anything.

Also be aware that some vets will use this as an opportunity to run a series of expensive tests to rule out some of the more pernicious bacterial and viral infections. If you don't pay attention and ask questions, the bill will get steep fast.

2. Provide the best husbandry you can. Make sure all husbandry parameters are correct. Feed it an appropriate diet and see if the behavior continues, lessens or ceases completely.

3. If you haven't already done so, review the do's and don'ts of proper quarantine. Yes, I know you have listed that this animal is in QT, but frankly most people who state this have no idea what proper QT entails.

The basics:

1. You need to QT in a completely separate area of the house. The farther away, the better. In fact a separate building is ideal. If you have carpeting in your house, vacuum your QT area religiously.

2. Since you have pythons, you need to pick a long QT period. Three months minimum, and keep in mind there is no accepted QT period for IBD.

3. You need a dedicated set of of husbandry tools. Don't share tools. Some viruses are resistant to many of the cleaning agents use to disinfect tools.

4. You need a disinfectant protocol anytime you leave your QT area. This means, for example, using nitrile gloves and sanitizer, or even changing clothes after handling any animals residing in QT.

5. During QT you should be prophylactically treating your new animal for external parasites and having internal parasite testing done as part of your initial vet visit.

7. All animals entering QT should be checked out by a specialized reptile vet - first thing.

You have a new arrival that may potentially have an active infection. It is imperative that you make sure you are following proper QT procedures to protect your other snake. One of the most critical components of this procedure involves seeing a vet.

Thanks everyone for your replies. I am hoping its a nuro problem or something like that. He didn't end up going to my friends, instead another friend is coming over on tues to assist feed, poor guy is weak, hungry, was dehydrated, but is getting stronger by the day with correct humidity and temps. So he is going to help him assist feed & then we will see from there. He is QT'd now. 2 diff rooms and everything. I have to call University of Florida to find out if they see snakes or if they know someone in gainesville that does so I can get Naga in. Anyways, thanks for everything. If you have anymore suggestions lemme know. Btw he was limp and almost lifeless for a while. always had his head down wasnt able to curl up in his hide but now is doing much better, is starting to wrap himself around our arms, pick head up more, moveing around more, everything. so im hopeing that he is getting better but just need to get osme food into him. anyways. thanks everyone.

-Kristen-