still wont eat

i have the probe on the hot side on the bottom of the tank on top of the paper towels and the accurite gauge it self is on the cold side and the heat bulb is on a thermostat and its all the way up if i back it down it wont be hot enough in there

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Originally Posted by deathfromabove

i have the probe on the hot side on the bottom of the tank on top of the paper towels and the accurite gauge it self is on the cold side and the heat bulb is on a thermostat and its all the way up if i back it down it wont be hot enough in there

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So.. no under tank heater? Just a light bulb?

Those heat lights get very hot, do you use a UTH?

Don't feed it crickets, they wouldn't offer the nutrition that your snake needs.
Sounds like your setup is good. You didn't mention an under tank heater though, what are you using for belly heat? Back heat from a light bulb may not be enough for you snake. Don't keep offering every five days, I would let him relax for 7 days before offering him anything again, sounds like he might be stressed. Have you tried offering rats? Do you live in a state where you can find ASFs? You may have better luck offering ASFs.


EDIT: Just read your last post. Him being active, looking for a way our is a sign of stress which is probably your answer to him refusing food.

what is ASFS and isnt he too small for rats, hes only roughly 18 inches

no i have a UTH but i really dont like it, cuz the cold side drops to the 60s

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Originally Posted by deathfromabove

what is ASFS and isnt he too small for rats, hes only roughly 18 inches

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It would be easier to tell you what size rat he can handle if you had a scale to weight him with. I'm sure he can take a rat pinky just fine.

ASFs are "African Soft Fur Rats". They are indigenous to Africa, from the same habitat that BPs are native to. It's believed that BPs instinctively are more attracted to ASFs (usually) than rats or mice. Many picky eaters do fine on ASFs, but they tend to be difficult to find, especially on the West Coast of the U.S. where there are several states in which ASFs are illegal, such as California.

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Originally Posted by deathfromabove

no i have a UTH but i really dont like it, cuz the cold side drops to the 60s

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Okay, starting from the beginning. UTH are best for snakes because it is necessary for digestion. IF you use a UTH you NEED a thermostat/rheostat/dimmer to maintain safe temps. Heat lamps get very hot, and suck out humidity, and just unnecessary in general. It's the end of May, is it really getting to the 60's where you live? Ambient temp is not as important as belly heat, however too cold ambient temps are not good, but they don't need to be as strict as the belly heat temps.

The best way to read ambient temps is with a digital thermometer. I use an IR temp gun which is accurate and easy and cheap.

The only time your ball python should be active is during a short period at night. Anytime other than that and it is usually a sign of stress. There are very informative caresheets on here, along with very useful thread on this same problem. Once you fix your husbandry, leave him alone for at least a week. Then try offering a small prey item such a hopper or adult mouse. Do NOT feed crickets, they are not snake prey.