AC/DC? (no rock & roll, but some soldering involved)

if it wasn't sticking you weren't getting it hot enough. Use flux core solder and it's alot easier also since the flux is built in. but if your using plain old solder (i still got a roll im using up lol) then you need to use flux to clean the surfaces and keeps oxygen out of the joint.

To cover my solder connections I buy liquid electrical tape.... I just cover the connection with it, and it works great.....

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Originally Posted by dragonboy4578

To cover my solder connections I buy liquid electrical tape.... I just cover the connection with it, and it works great.....

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Hmm I think I'm goons try this stuff.

as you told that your husband is engineer its very good . surely he have the correct knowledge
for more details you can search on google.

It's not a very google-able fact. But we concluded that the output would certainly have to be DC, because the heat tape is basically a giant resistor, and it produces heat because a voltage is driving a current through it. It would have to be a steady voltage and steady current to work, so there much be a transformer somewhere in there between the outlet and the output.

So this liquid electrical tape sounds fantastic. Where do you get it?

Household electricity is alternating current (ac), you can plug heat tape directly into the wall and it warms up. If you look above you'll see the OP noted that the thermostat does state "ac out".


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- -Brian

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Notes on soldering:

1. Solder is actually somewhat resistive, though current will pass through it without much problem. The joint should hold together securely and have good contact prior to soldering, the solder is just insurance.

2. When soldering, press the iron to the joint for a few seconds to heat it up and then press the solder the heated joint. Capillary action will cause the solder to flow into the joint.

3. My soldering experience is mostly on perf boards with small components i.e. resistors, capacitors, diodes, transistors. So take my advice with a grain of salt.