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  • 05-10-2011, 03:31 AM
    mainbutter
    I just wanted to touch on a few points.

    The "ideal" girth-to-length may not be what is most attractive to your eyes, but it is healthiest for your pet! I'm sure that you'll be happier with a healthy pet with average girth than a sickly underfed one.

    Also, you asked about males vs females.. Females definitely get a bit larger than males. It's not as drastic as with hognose snakes for example, but you'll see many more 3,000 gram females than you'll see 3,000 gram males.

    Also as for handling time, one member responded spending 20 minutes twice a week handling a ball python, and you expressed dismay. He merely stated how much HE handles, not how much one CAN handle a ball python. For the most part, if you wanted to take a ball python out every day (with exceptions for 1-2 days after feeding to let him digest), most snakes would be just fine with it. If your snake stops eating or exhibits other signs of stress, you may be handling too much, but a number of my snakes have no issues with being handled for up to an hour at a time, and I could handle them every day or every other day and they would be just fine.

    It's much harder for me to over-handle my animals as I have so many that it actually becomes hard to give every single one individual time regularly, I CAN see someone over-handling their lone pet snake, but I think if you're smart about it you won't hurt your snake. Avoid anything that signals stress, they often let you know if they're not comfortable being handled.

    When I had a lone ball python as my only pet, I would handle close to every day or every other day for an entire TV show, whether it was an episode of the simpsons or House or whatever.

    Keep in mind that just because you aren't handling a pet doesn't mean you can't enjoy it. I just enjoy having a snake cage in my living room (where I spend most of my time) and can watch them, particularly as they become more active in the evening and on towards the night.

    I hope that helps.
  • 05-10-2011, 03:46 AM
    loonunit
    They're constictors, right? It's hard to constrict a chunk of salmon. I don't think it would hurt the snake, but I'm not sure you get could really get a proper predator response from an animal that's designed to go after small warm blooded fuzzy things.

    You can spend plenty of time with the snake, but I don't recommend doing it right off the bat unless you got lucky and got a super-friendly one that's already used to humans. First week you usually don't want any real contact, just check on the temps and clean the tank and make sure everything is okay. Second week you can start the 20 minutes every third day or so thing. If she's really into handling, you can handle her more often. But if she's shy (curling into a ball, hiding head, not exploring, exploring only to immediately hide) or stressing (defensive biting, tail-wagging, constant hissing, peeing or pooping on your) you want to limit the time. (But I don't put them right back after peeing on me or biting--I don't like them to associate those behaviors with getting their way.)

    I actually got more than one ball python partly so that I could alternate snakes and handle one every day without worrying about stressing them. Now I get the idea they'd all like to come out MORE often then they do... ball pythons that have been around you for a year tend to be pretty okay with frequent handling. Even if they started out totally neurotic.

    But don't handle for a good two days after feeding. They really do need to digest in peace, and even the friendly ones will just be sluggish and boring. Oh, and the middle of the afternoon is snakey nap time. Early morning is okay, but evenings are best.
  • 05-10-2011, 05:33 AM
    Munizfire
    Re: Considering Buying a Ball Python.
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by jben View Post
    Because you want a healthy “thin” snake. By your description it sounds like a garter snake would be better for you, it would stay thinner than a bp and it can eat fish, which would or should equal you being a happy pet owner. Also, the bp in the first pic is very, very thin and suffering and for someone to purposely keep a snake underfed just to please themselves is outright wrong should not own a pet.:colbert:

    no no no no no, i respectfully disagree, it MAY seem to you that I would keep my BP from eating so it would be 'thin'. Nope, it was just a question, I really like Pythons. I can assure you I am a responsible pet owner, my dogs/cats can tell you :D
  • 05-10-2011, 05:50 AM
    Munizfire
    thanks for the handling tips guys.

    Ok so, once i have the full set up (tank, hide, water bowl, thermometers, humidity meters, 'toys'), ill buy the snake and give her, 1-2 weeks of lonely time (im guessing that staring at the tank doesn't help at all, right?), and after that, I can handle her for like 20 mins each 3 days? and give her 3 day breaks after eating...

    Does that sound right?

    now that it has been mentioned: Poop, pee, and Bites...
    Bites: i have NEVER heard of a BP biting, but im pretty sure it happens quite often... BPs wouldn't bite unless extremely uncomfortable or pissed off, right? How bad are their bites?

    poop: I've heard they only poop once a week (if she eats once a week) like 2-3 days after eating. True or False? How easy is it to clean their poo? is it solid or diarrhea like? (sorry for the mental picture...lol), I've also heard that it is a good idea to 'poty train' them to poop on the water bowl... again, true or false?

    Pee: how often do they pee?
  • 05-10-2011, 06:58 AM
    Vypyrz
    Re: Considering Buying a Ball Python.
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Munizfire View Post
    thanks for the handling tips guys.

    Ok so, once i have the full set up (tank, hide, water bowl, thermometers, humidity meters, 'toys'), ill buy the snake and give her, 1-2 weeks of lonely time (im guessing that staring at the tank doesn't help at all, right?), and after that, I can handle her for like 20 mins each 3 days? and give her 3 day breaks after eating...

    Does that sound right?

    now that it has been mentioned: Poop, pee, and Bites...
    Bites: i have NEVER heard of a BP biting, but im pretty sure it happens quite often... BPs wouldn't bite unless extremely uncomfortable or pissed off, right? How bad are their bites?

    poop: I've heard they only poop once a week (if she eats once a week) like 2-3 days after eating. True or False? How easy is it to clean their poo? is it solid or diarrhea like? (sorry for the mental picture...lol), I've also heard that it is a good idea to 'poty train' them to poop on the water bowl... again, true or false?

    Pee: how often do they pee?

    Ball Pythons will only get fat if you make then fat. This is done by feeding more frequently. Alot of the chunkier BP's that you see are usually being fattened up for breeding, because once they go into breeding mode they won't eat for several weeks and/or months, so they need the extra weight. Since I keep snakes as pets and not to breed, I have no reason to fatten them up, so I have my BP on a more conservative feeding schedule. I ffed my 3 year old BP a 70-90 gram rat every 10 days, and his length and weight are proportionate.

    http://i1019.photobucket.com/albums/...e/HPIM0700.jpg

    http://i1019.photobucket.com/albums/...ambora0574.jpg

    Once you get your set-up and snake, it will need a week or so to settle in. You should avoid handling or disturbing the snake as much as possible, except for changing water and spot cleaning. After about a week, then attempt to feed it. After it eats, wait at least 2 days for the snake to digest it's meal, then you can start handling it. At first, it is good to keep handling sessions to 15-20 minutes at a time until the snake gets used to you and being handled, then you can increase the time.
    Most of the time, BP's will bite for two reasons, and both are the keepers fault.
    1) Startling or scaring the snake by making fast or jerky movements.
    2) Handling the snake after handling rodents without washing their hands.
    Most bites bleed very little, if at all. On the occasions that I get bit by one of my snakes, I simply wash the bite with anti-bacterial hand soap and put a little antibiotic cream on it and usually it heals in a day or two. If you have ever been bitten or scratched by a cat or dog, they hurt worse than a BP bite. If you have any tattoos or piercings, they hurt worse than a BP bite. The most important thing to remember about getting bit is get a picture of it and post it on this forum. :D
    Their pooping schedule varies. Younger snakes will poop sometimes once every 4-6 weeks because they are using more of the prey to grow, whereas, adults may poop 2-4 times a month. It depends on the individual snake. Some snakes will hold on to it until they shed and then leave you a massive suprise.
    Peeing also depends on the individual snake. Some may pee 2 or 3 times a week and some may only pee 2 or 3 times a month.
    Their poop looks just like cat or dog poop. Pee is a bit different. Not only do they pee liquid but they also pass dry urates, which look like white or yellowish lumps.
  • 05-10-2011, 07:12 AM
    Vypyrz
    Re: Considering Buying a Ball Python.
    I forgot to add...they fart too...loudly :rofl:
  • 05-10-2011, 07:20 AM
    mommanessy247
    Re: Considering Buying a Ball Python.
    Quote:

    full set up (tank, hide, water bowl, thermometers, humidity meters, 'toys')
    :colbert: snakes do not "play".
    a good rule of thumb for these guys is "a hiding bp is a happy bp." NOT a good display animal by any means.
    a good set up will include the cage of course, an under tank heat pad underneath one side (about 1/2 the size of the cage), MUST have a thermostat or something to control that heat pad, 2 identical hides (one on each end), 1-2 water dishes (i use 2 cuz it helps me maintain better humidity) & a hygrometer.
    a temp gun is by far, hands down THE BEST way to monitor temps as it reads surface temps (which will tell you exactly what the snake is sitting on).
    as far as biting, your right, it would take ALOT to make a bp bite but smelling like food on feeding day is a good way to accomplish that. so far i've seen alot of these comments about bp bites..."i didnt even know i was bitten until i saw the blood." which also by the way is like maybe a drop, or 2.
    i've NEVER been bitten so i have no experience with it and i like it that way.
    i dont really keep track of how often my girl poos but everyone here says these snakes usually do a big dooky after a shed.
    from my experience the poo is solid, like a little log, but i have heard of some snakes going all picasso with theirs...

    Quote:

    potty train
    ? really? :rofl: nuff said. but in their water? that's disgusting :zerb:

    i dont know if you already know about the pee or not but theres 2 forms of pee - the normal liquid (which will more then likely be absorbed by whatever substrate you use) & then theres the "urates" the soild form (looks to me like poo painted white, haha.)
  • 05-10-2011, 07:26 AM
    mommanessy247
    Re: Considering Buying a Ball Python.
    :O :D :banana:

    i see a frankie shirt!

    cant wait to get mine.
  • 05-10-2011, 07:43 AM
    Skittles1101
    Young bps are thin, adults if thin, are NOT healthy. Bps are thick snakes, it is how they are built and if you underfeed to keep them thin, you are starving them and will not live a healthy happy life. Also you can handle for than 20 mins twice a week. I handle mine every single day usually. Please don't get a bp if you're going to try and keep it skinny....
  • 05-10-2011, 07:52 AM
    Munizfire
    Re: Considering Buying a Ball Python.
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by mommanessy247 View Post
    :colbert: snakes do not "play".
    a good rule of thumb for these guys is "a hiding bp is a happy bp." NOT a good display animal by any means.
    a good set up will include the cage of course, an under tank heat pad underneath one side (about 1/2 the size of the cage), MUST have a thermostat or something to control that heat pad, 2 identical hides (one on each end), 1-2 water dishes (i use 2 cuz it helps me maintain better humidity) & a hygrometer.
    a temp gun is by far, hands down THE BEST way to monitor temps as it reads surface temps (which will tell you exactly what the snake is sitting on).
    as far as biting, your right, it would take ALOT to make a bp bite but smelling like food on feeding day is a good way to accomplish that. so far i've seen alot of these comments about bp bites..."i didnt even know i was bitten until i saw the blood." which also by the way is like maybe a drop, or 2.
    i've NEVER been bitten so i have no experience with it and i like it that way.
    i dont really keep track of how often my girl poos but everyone here says these snakes usually do a big dooky after a shed.
    from my experience the poo is solid, like a little log, but i have heard of some snakes going all picasso with theirs...

    ? really? :rofl: nuff said. but in their water? that's disgusting :zerb:

    i dont know if you already know about the pee or not but theres 2 forms of pee - the normal liquid (which will more then likely be absorbed by whatever substrate you use) & then theres the "urates" the soild form (looks to me like poo painted white, haha.)

    not toys to play with... lol i meant like branches to climb and stuff :banana:

    about the potty train... :rofl: i dont remember where but i read once on the internet that it was easier to clean when they pooped in the water...


    OH well, I'm here to learn and avoid mistakes, aren't I? ;)
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