heat tape problem

that is a big difference. i would say try a thermostat and not a dimmer. unplug everything and let it cool down so it is all the room same temp. plug it into the new thermostat and plug in thermostat. let it run for a few days and ur temps should be pretty close.

i built a hatchling rack with heattape and mine is a bit off. i have the Helix set for 93 and the center is 97 and the outsides are 93, i just turned it down a bit and ill be checking it again

can you post a picture of how it is wired?
I have an idea but I want to see it before I say what I think might be going on

I found that using cheap lamp cord I was getting line loss and it was allowing the end tape to be lower temps than the first ones on the run. I was getting that kinds of temps top to bottom. I also found that the top due to thermal gain was hotter. If you are using lamp cord try re-wiring the with 2 strand heater cord. The other thought is to take the first off the wire to the bottom and last off the wire to the top. If the first is hottest and the last coolest the heat rising to the top drawers might off set some of the difference.

The dimmer might be the problem. I have a dimmer on a Dumeril's cage and it doesn't seem to get them temps right no matter what I do. My racks are all using a Herpstat II and all is fine with them.

Please use a good proportional thermostat such as herpstat, or helix.
Isn't your beloved pet/expensive morph worth it to pay little more for quality equipment?

In a rack, thermal gain will definitely build up. I would suggest a thermostat probe at each row, or (in addition to a proper thermostat) dimmers at each row so that you can dial it in to the same temp and compensate for thermal gain.

I am gonna reclamp everything tomorrow and check things to see what happens if not I;m just gonna re-wire things and do a helix

lance

Quote:

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Originally Posted by lance

I am gonna reclamp everything tomorrow and check things to see what happens if not I;m just gonna re-wire things and do a helix

lance

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Is every section of flex-watt cut the same size? (same amount of heat bars?)
Also did you wire them in series or does each one have its own cord?

The dimmer won't be the problem. All it does is restrict the voltage when turned down. All strips will be getting the same voltage. Since all pieces of flexwatt tape is cut to the same length, this shouldn't be an issue either.

Now to what it could be. I would double and triple check each connection. If you have a high resistance connection, you will see a lower temp on that strip. Just because you used a heavy pair of pliers doesn't mean you've made a good connection.

I would like to see each heat tape strip. Many times, the tape is not cut in the proper angle. Depending on the tape, the silver part (which is the conductor) is cut at different angles. If you don't cut between the silver part, you've created a high resistance area and will never get the proper heat output.


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You must cut between the lines (silver part of the flexwatt tape). You cannot cut any part of the lines (silver part of the flexwatt tape). If you do, you have effectively cut off the part that will allow it to work properly.

I hope I was able to explain this so you could understand my desciption.

Good Luck!
Jim Smith

PS Sorry for the poor drawings.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by PitOnTheProwl

Is every section of flex-watt cut the same size? (same amount of heat bars?)
Also did you wire them in series or does each one have its own cord?

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they are all the same size. each one has its own cord the input has white cords and the output has black one;s.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by j_h_smith

The dimmer won't be the problem. All it does is restrict the voltage when turned down. All strips will be getting the same voltage. Since all pieces of flexwatt tape is cut to the same length, this shouldn't be an issue either.

Now to what it could be. I would double and triple check each connection. If you have a high resistance connection, you will see a lower temp on that strip. Just because you used a heavy pair of pliers doesn't mean you've made a good connection.

I would like to see each heat tape strip. Many times, the tape is not cut in the proper angle. Depending on the tape, the silver part (which is the conductor) is cut at different angles. If you don't cut between the silver part, you've created a high resistance area and will never get the proper heat output.


|\ \ \ |
| \ \ \|
| \ \ \|
|\ \ \ |
| \ \ \|
| \ \ \|


|------|
|------|
|------|
|------|
|------|
|------|



You must cut between the lines (silver part of the flexwatt tape). You cannot cut any part of the lines (silver part of the flexwatt tape). If you do, you have effectively cut off the part that will allow it to work properly.

I hope I was able to explain this so you could understand my desciption.

Good Luck!
Jim Smith

PS Sorry for the poor drawings.

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Not exactly sure what you mean on the cut I cut where there is a clear break in the heat tape but the tape has silver the whole way through on it. :( sorry. Can you maybe explain a little better so I can understand lol.

here is a video of the rack and everything please help


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4CPKckfTqWk