How to properly get temp readings...new snake owner

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Originally Posted by bsavage

I'm sure someone has suggested this, but temp gun all the way. That will be accurate instantaneously, and so there is no waiting around for a digi thermometer to stabilize.

My suggestions would be to ditch a turf or carpet substrate if thats what you have and use something the snake can burrow into for extra warmth. Obviously, glass temp is important regardless, because you never know when you're snake may burrow. You can always try thinning the substrate on the warm side(as many UTH manufacturer's suggest). Try paper towels, eco earth, shredded newspaper. And also, have a nice hide on the cool side.Just incase something gets a little too hot in the process, you're ball won't feel so insecure and let itself get burned.

If you have already covered any of this stuff, disregard it and pat yourself on the back.

Also, since you're using an aquarium, you may want to have an extra small crock of water on the warm side to help keep humidity up in the cage.

My final suggestion-Switch to a tub, makes life so much easier in my opinion, for you and the snake(though some may disagree with the snake having it easier...)
my

Edit: My tub is set up with a probe directly above the bottom of the tub but under the substrate on the hot side. That's how I get hotside readings. My coolside is measured by the the same thermoemter at the other end of the enclosure, fastened to the side. Also, thios gives me my humidity reading. I get constant, steady readings of 93 on the hot sides and around 80 on the cooler sides. Even when temp falls at night, the UTH seems enough to sustain temperatures as I've never seen the coolside fall below 77 even if the house is somewhere around 72. And 77 is pretty rare. Usually sits right on 80. I really just dont suggest a lamp of heat emitter for your tank, it will throw your humidity right out of whack. I hope all this randomized bits of info are helpful to you in someway.

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You pretty much took every single word out of my mouth, perfect!

Just get all the temps and humidity consistent, then you wont have to worry about anything with your snake's tank.

Just remember, if the glass is hot to the touch, it'll burn the snake. IF the substrate is hot to the touch, doubly so! Snakes need a basking temperature around what out bodies run at, so the top of the substrate should be feintly warm, with the glass only a little bit warmer. And I mean WARM, like a mother's caress, not warm like a hot bath. ;)

So this guide http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showthread.php?56846-Glass-tank-setup is overkill?

I think in general you're going to get advice based on two different groups on this site and anywhere you look.

Some people will say buy hundreds if not thousands of dollars worth of equipment to provide the most accurate way to check, control, monitor, and maintain the absolute perfect environment imaginable.

Others will basically say does it matter if instead of being accurate to 2 decimals your accurate to within 2 degrees? As long as the temps are ball park and your snake is alive and acting healthy, it's fine.

That guide is for people in the first group, and personally seems like overkill.

I am also a new snake owner and im in the complete exact position as you, my house is getting really cold due to winter coming around so keeping the temps up in my glass tank without bringing the humidity down has been VERY hard so im switching to tubs with UTH's and I suggest that you do this too because its much cheeper keeps humidity/heat in better and much more simple to clean.

If I have 1 inch of substrate should I put the probe about a 1/2 inch below the substrate and aim to get the temp at 80 cool/90 hot?

I just don't want to set the temps by that and then he burn himself if he burrows to the glass.

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Originally Posted by kyleax1

If I have 1 inch of substrate should I put the probe about a 1/2 inch below the substrate and aim to get the temp at 80 cool/90 hot?

I just don't want to set the temps by that and then he burn himself if he burrows to the glass.

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Generally, don't even worry about the cool side. Under the substrate, and I mean completely under it, is where I have my probe. I try to keep the temps at 93 there, as I know that'll mean its around 90 on top of the substrate. Don't worry about setting the probe in between, have it under all the substrate so you know exactly how hot that plastic/glass is getting.

If you achieve the temps I have stated(93 under the substrate), the cool side should generally take care of itself, so long as you don't have the enclosure in a ridiculously cold room(under 65?). Mr reptile room is about 70-75 degrees at any given time, however, the coolsides seem to clock in around 80 consistently in the enclosures, and like I said, hot side temps read 93 on average, and everyone is happy, healthy, and calm(unless there is food)

He will not burn himself on glass that is 93 degrees, but, just in case, do what I said in one of my first replies to you, and give him access to a hide on the cool side. That way, if god forbid, he burrows and the glass ever gets to hot, he wont sacrifice security for proper thermo regulation, and will go and hang out in the cool side hide where he can lower hios temperature without feeling vunerable out in the open. Believe me, a timid snake would rather get burned than expose itself to its surroundings.