Green Anole (Possibly) and several questions

They are the dead ones, I'm afraid.

We did put live crickets in there, though the place we got them from this time was in another town and it's not some where we can get to. Im not sure of where else I can get them for $1.20 a dozen!

I don't think crickets would cost that much since you only have one anole mouth to feed. My 8 year old anole eats like one small roach a day. Try tong feeding the dead ones and twitching them around if you can't get live crickets.

Is there any online sources anyone can suggest?

Of what? Crickets, roaches?

Well, hes small and young and I think half the problem of his feeding is the food size. So whatever we can get thats small.

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Originally Posted by AkHerps

Yeah, if you go to florida or places like that, the green anoles are just everywhere basking in the sun. The rule for reptiles like green anoles, beardies, etc..is 12 hours of day time, 12 hours of night time. The difference is, anole's are like 7 bucks..and they need pretty expensive set ups.

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Yes, they are all over Florida, however you will see 20x more Brown anoles than Greens. Aslo, my tank setup was probably the cheapest setup I own. I have a red heat lamp, along with a regular lamp, some branches, fake plants, and a big piece of wood to climb on. They get sprayed once a day with water, and they have been fine the last year without a problem. They are all healthy and doing great. Just thought I'd point that out. (Oh and all wild caught and very tame).

Unfortunately Anoles are the bottom of the reptile world, and yet they make great pets for observing and learning about. I've even had my 2 greens drop a few eggs, however getting them to hatch without an incubator is hard. LOL

The one the OP posted, if it can eat, and get stronger, then I'd say keep it, otherwise you might have to put it down. I had a small female that got "Beat up" by the larger female in my tank, and she broke the small females lower jaw. She couldn't eat, and I had to put her down. It was pretty sad. :(

Well, after being thoroughly scared over Daemon I was holding for a long time. He licked my hand, and it seems that the jaw isn't affecting him too much. I'm going to continue watching, and be on my way to a UAB bulb asap. I'd love to see him live to die of old age. I wish I wouldve known, I couldve saved him a lot of trouble. I feel stupid, all I ever heard was reptiles need heat and light. Common sense shouldve told me I needed one. Thanks for the guidance guys, I'll let you know how it goes.

Poor skinny little thing. He needs plenty of food to get him looking right again. He's in a bad way. You shouldn't be able to see his ribs that way, and his hips should be filled out.

Some tips: Keep the humidity in the cage at 60 to 80% (use a hygrometer to check).

Temperatures should be 90 to 95F on the hot side, and 80F during the day on the cool side. You can drop to room temp at night. Use indoor/outdoor thermometers with remote probes to check temperatures at basking areas and the cool side of the tanks (Can be purchased at Walmart for under 10 bucks).

UVB (ultra-violet B) lights are essential.

The following are appropriate foods: phoenix worms, 1/4 inch crickets dusted with calcium, D. Hydei flightless fruit flies dusted with calcium, newly-shed (white and soft) mealworms dusted with calcium, and occasional small wax worms and butterworms.
It may also appreciate a bit of day gecko nectar or Repashy crested gecko diet.
Feed him daily until his weight improves, then feed him every other day, as much as he'll eat in one sitting. Remove any uneaten insects, (especially crickets, as they may nibble on him while he sleeps).

Live non-toxic plants such as Pothos will be well appreciated.
Green anoles prefer not to drink from a dish--spray the cage twice a day to provide drinking water. They can also learn to drink from an elevated shallow dish with an aquarium airstone placed in it, but this must be kept scrupulously clean. It's important for him to be well-hydrated, particularly since he's so skinny.

Green anoles are fairly sexually dimorphic once fully grown. Males have longer heads and rougher snouts, pronounced pre-anal pores, hemipenal bulges, and can erect a crest of flesh along their neck and back.
Females have a shorter smoother snout, no or reduced pre-anal pores, and are a bit smaller than the males. Both sexes have a dewlap.
The angles of your photos make it hard to be CERTAIN, but it looks like a boy.

Alright, the phoenix worms seem like my best bet.

Though, and I did look at their site, do they stay small? I mean, I see they get larger, and they can turn into soldier flys in 10-14 days. But they sell them in 600+ containers and I dont want them to go to waste, you know? Im looking somewhere else for smaller packages but I dont know.

They do grow..but randomly I found a site that sells a lot of 100.

http://www.sugar-glider-store.com/ne...nix-worms.html