Best care for newly imported babies?

Nice tips. Thanks. The only problem with taking the fecals in is he charged us $18 each.

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Originally Posted by zn394

One of these guys was 35g. From what I have read they tend to be 50-60ish right out of the egg. The weights range from this little guy (who ate twice already :) ) to 104g.

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My smallest hatchling last year came out of the egg at that weight--a runt. I also had some over 80 grams out of the egg! New hatchling weights can vary tremendously. If they're eating--it's golden.

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Originally Posted by PassionsPythons

Personally I think you have done great thus far. I agree that you should feed imports live first and then go to frozen thawed in a few weeks dependent upon each individuals feeding response. 6qt tubs are perfect for hatchlings, I wouldn't change that until they hit about 300-400grams or so. I would worm each, just to be safe. It won't hurt them at all. I would give each a bath with a little "reptile spray" as you said. But from what you have done and are going to do there isn't much to add. You are pretty much taking the proper/exact measures needed for those imports. :gj:

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I agree worming is a good idea with any import.
Especially since they came in @ low body weight.

My advice keep them warm (hot spot of 88-92), tight (6 quarts tub will work perfectly), on aspen (can be very helpful to get stubborn feeder started) and feed live.

Your priority is to get them started those import did not likely get started therefore it's gonna be their very first meal, they will need to be stimulated and F/T will just not cut it.

Offer live than after 3 to 5 feedings try to convert if this is what you want to do but for now your priority is to get them started.

I suppose an update is in order.

First of all, I appreciate all the input I got. One of the snakes was sold and of the remaining 19 only one is being a difficult eater. That one has been force or assist fed every time but one - that being 11 days ago. We rubbed a hopper on a gerbil and he ate it, but did not when offered a scented mouse 3 days ago. However the other 18 are all eating well and 16 are on f/t adult mice.

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Originally Posted by zn394

Nice tips. Thanks. The only problem with taking the fecals in is he charged us $18 each.

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Find a microscope on CL.
If it moves it's bad!

So if you used your own microscope for worming them and find worms, how do you get rid of the worms?

How contagious are the worms? How fast might they spread? Now that I'm looking at getting a snake from Africa, I'm getting worried about healthy snake issues... This is a great thread for info. Thanks guys/gals! :gj:

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Originally Posted by ClarkT

So if you used your own microscope for worming them and find worms, how do you get rid of the worms?

How contagious are the worms? How fast might they spread? Now that I'm looking at getting a snake from Africa, I'm getting worried about healthy snake issues... This is a great thread for info. Thanks guys/gals! :gj:

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Any import needs to be wormed, and treated for external parasites!
A more extensive fecal (done by a vet) can identify other internal parasites that may/will be present.
Some breeders/collectors also administer a broad spectrum antibiotic to every wild caught specimen they bring in.
Not to mention......
I should quarantine every import for 6 months.

Please pictures of the babies :)

OK, I finally got out the camera. Here are some pics of the two that are left. The normal is going to a friend and the black back is staying here.

http://ball-pythons.net/gallery/show...mageuser=14233

http://ball-pythons.net/gallery/show...mageuser=14233

http://ball-pythons.net/gallery/show...mageuser=14233

http://ball-pythons.net/gallery/show...mageuser=14233