Cages

Almost any wood is fine as long as it is encapsulated (totally sealed) in paint or like. Most paints will work avoid any designed for decks and bathrooms specifically as they have chemicals to prevent mould and mildew which I would not trust with a snake. Also avoid spar varnishes as the never truely harden and always have a soft finish.

I like poly urethanes myself colors in plastic I am partial to allow any paint or varnish to fully cure follow the instructions and allow extra drying time. I usually will 'bake' the paint by placing it in a warm really well ventilate space for a few days to help cure. I'd allow any solvent paint type product to 'out gas' for at least 7 full days and 10 days is likely better (and over kill)

I personally have worked with plastic products with the custom enclosures I have done. Being more durable and easier to clean but more costly and harder to work. My one other suggestion would be a plastic (fully plastic) bottom as it is way easier to heat through. I'd go with solid PVC (not expanded) as it is a poor insulator so it heats well. Wood bottoms can be difficult to get enough heat inside the enclosure.

mine...
http://images17.fotki.com/v147/photo...31/0128-vi.jpgHosted on Fotki

in case of wood there are lots of good quality of wood types available in the market. you can buy accordin to your requirement

I own a custom cabinet shop and use a prefinished Asian Birch just like I use for my cabinets.
It has a 2 part epoxy finish that is baked on at the factory. For my larger snakes I wrap the interior in Formica.

Heres what the insides of mine look like.

http://i1201.photobucket.com/albums/...s/DSC06048.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by kitedemon

http://images17.fotki.com/v147/photo...31/0128-vi.jpgHosted on Fotki

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Id like to know more about this cage you built. A few years back a Condro breeder from the Netherlands posted how to build cages similar to this one only larger. They used 10mm (I think) mulit wall and aluminum channel. I searched for a long time trying to find the aluminum channel with no luck. He and another breeder from the UK offered to ship some over but the cost was outrageous. Id be interested in knowing how you built this one and what you used to hold up the sides.

That is likely the same design I based this off of. It was a big duplex thing.

I also used polycarb multi-wall on the sides. I did not use the Titan they used I used a standard double wall box style 8-mm clear. I got a clear cheap from a plastics place it was about 98$ for 4x10 sheet that was a deal as it is older stock. I wish I had used the bronze colour now... live and learn.

I too priced the channel that they used and well the shipping was unbelievable :O I came up with an alternative. I used 1 1/4 aluminum angle sourced locally. I then drilled holes through the multi-wall and aluminum and placed the angle al. on the outside and bolted it together and used a large bead of aquarium construction silicone (not plain sealant but the GE scs 1200) on the interior. The only channel was plain aluminum U that is ment for plywood edging to mount the glass track to. I mounted the top surface to the cover not a little hanging thing. Easier.

I have inherited my Dad's Scottish frugality. The most expensive part of keeping Royals is not thermostats and cages and stuff like that but POWER. My goal was to build the most efficient enclosure I could. I used a PVC floor not the expanded PVCx that you see all the time but plain PVC 1/4 it is heavy and strong but it (unlike PVCx) is a poor insulator. It heats easily and transfers heat well. The multi-wall holds it in well so it is a win win.

I set it up last December so not quite a year and generally am happy. I built it 30x24x18 it is quite good but doing it again I might go 16 tall maybe 14 12 is too hard to clean easily but 18 is harder to heat (I use room humidity so that isn't an issue but in the taller it might be.) The other mistake I made is the joint of the bottom to sides it too is bolted but I didn't get the PVC clean enough and the silicone in spots is lifting. I'd lightly sand the edge doing it again. I also drilled and assembled the thing as I went I used a bit of silicone between the aluminum angle and multi-wall. Now I'd dry fit everything and then disassemble it all and blow out the drill leavings from inside the multi-wall and clean it all well then go to the final assembly. Limited time so I was in a hurry I wish I didn't do that now.

It is holding up well a bit 'soft feeling' if you push the corners but it will not let go better joints of aluminium would solve that I just butt them together. I am not sure I'd trust it with a large enclosure (longer than 4 foot long) or with large snakes (retics burms) but it is completely fine for my big girl, 4400 gm 5'5". She is unable to flex anything but a retic??? I'd go heavier and stronger. It is light and easy to clean heats well and holds the heat for ages. (1 or 2 degree drop in temps every hour with no power to it. so 90HS to 80HS takes 5 to ten hours so no need to worry if the power goes out for a few hours)

My herpstat on that rarely says anything other than 0% or 10% power I think I have seen 20% every once in a while but nothing more than that. (the room ambient temp is cool 65-75ºF seasonally.) It generally is very good for power consumption. I also have enough materials left to build a 30x24x14 (3 sides multi-wall and top) and a 24x24x12 (back multi-wall and rest pvc) enclosure from the multi-wall and PVC sheets I bought.

PM me if you have other questions...
Alex