Sooo someone didn’t want this girl...

i have nvr used butter worms either...may try as well!

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They love wax worms & they'll definitely fatten her up some. They even like some frozen-thawed veggies, like peas & carrots. Beardies are personable pets. :sweeet:

If your UVB light is installed inside the enclosure, use a T8 Reptisun 10.0 with about 10-12 inches away from the light to the beardie on the basking(highest) spot.

If your UVB light is on top of a screen mesh, use a T5 Reptisun 10.0 with no less than 10 inches away from beardie and basking spot.

An appropriate enclosure size for an adult beardie is at least 4 foot long, 18-21" tall and wide. Of course the bigger the better. Height matters for their lizards as they are semi arboreal. They prefer to climb or even stay on their hammocks all day so hides may not be used until brumation, even then they prefer to sleep up high. The cold end should be no colder than 77-80F, lowest being 75F is still ok.

Tiles and bricks work great for their safety and their need to climb on rough surfaces. I stack one large brick as a basking spot. Some people prefer wood pieces which is fine too.

Hornworms can be fed more than 1x a week. They are a favorite among beardies. However, feed sparingly and in small meals as too much in one sitting can cause diarrhea. For her, I would highly recommend giving her hornworms every other day. Butter worms and black solder fly larvae are great too and can be fed as much as it will eat. Wax worms are high in fat but compared to the other feeders, should be fed sparingly.

Your beardie is underweight. One clear indicator besides the hip bones protruding are the lack of fat reserves on its head. You should see 2 small bumps or curves on top of its head. There are other parts in the body that are also showing lack of fat, but the head is the most easy to tell.

Keep it comfortable and feed it well. I would start her basking temps close to 98F (Adults are usually around 95F but higher does not hurt). Many beardie illnesses besides mdb cannot be detected visually. If you notice any lesions or strange coloring around her belly and other bodies, it is a seriously problem. Another is eggbinding or an egg has rotten inside her. While your vet had checked her out, I would still keep an eye on her and occasionally feel her belly for any hard masses. It is common for some owners not to provide a nesting box for the females to allow them to lay their eggs. You will have to provide one.

Add-on post:

Keeping a beardie is a long term financial and time commitment. They can poop quite a lot and are messy poopers so daily cleaning is needed.

They can grow to become picky eaters or not, with many one day liking a certain type of veggies then not the following week. Variety keeps them healthy and from being bored of their salads. This can be frustrating and costly if fresh vegetables are expensive in your area.

Enrichment with the use of hammocks and other climbing pieces are a necessity. They climb out in the wild and still enjoy doing so in captivity, so a tall enclosure can be costly and annoying to make. Taking them outside for sunning is great for them by do so with a leash designed for lizards which you can easily pick up from Amazon for less than $20. I highly recommend taking your beardie outside at least once a week. Nothing replicates the best if rays than the sun itself. Some owners report an increase in appetite and activity when they started sunning. Do not leave your beardie unattended.

They can live to about 10 years if well cared for. Are you ready to clean its cage almost daily? Feed it every other day? In other words, TIME is what your beardie will require from you. Out of all of my 8 herps, my beardie takes up most of my time evey day to clean, feed and to take it outside for some sunning.

While beardies are easy to care for if their husbandry is on point, the lack of time and interest is what prompt people to give them up, resulting beardies being one of the top 5 reptiles being surrendered to rescues. If you are going to rehome it, the responsibility falls on you to ensure the next owner is aware of such commitment and hopefully, be its last and forever home.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Cheesenugget

Add-on post:

Keeping a beardie is a long term financial and time commitment. They can poop quite a lot and are messy poopers so daily cleaning is needed.

They can grow to become picky eaters or not, with many one day liking a certain type of veggies then not the following week. Variety keeps them healthy and from being bored of their salads. This can be frustrating and costly if fresh vegetables are expensive in your area.

Enrichment with the use of hammocks and other climbing pieces are a necessity. They climb out in the wild and still enjoy doing so in captivity, so a tall enclosure can be costly and annoying to make. Taking them outside for sunning is great for them by do so with a leash designed for lizards which you can easily pick up from Amazon for less than $20. I highly recommend taking your beardie outside at least once a week. Nothing replicates the best if rays than the sun itself. Some owners report an increase in appetite and activity when they started sunning. Do not leave your beardie unattended.

They can live to about 10 years if well cared for. Are you ready to clean its cage almost daily? Feed it every other day? In other words, TIME is what your beardie will require from you. Out of all of my 8 herps, my beardie takes up most of my time evey day to clean, feed and to take it outside for some sunning.

While beardies are easy to care for if their husbandry is on point, the lack of time and interest is what prompt people to give them up, resulting beardies being one of the top 5 reptiles being surrendered to rescues. If you are going to rehome it, the responsibility falls on you to ensure the next owner is aware of such commitment and hopefully, be its last and forever home.

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Well said my dude! If we refine I do have the perfect home, but if not we have needed time and resources for the animal for sure


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