BP not Eating

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Originally Posted by Thomas S

my last live feed drop was to see the mouse movements and when the snake might strike, i watched this in a dark room so she would not see me, everything went good, she did strike the mouse from completely inside her hide, i was worried about that because she hardly ever comes out from her hide when the Big Bad Wolf comes home, Lol.. then she dropped the live mouse that she just killed. I thought to myself, can she smell me in the room watching her feed? Thank god after about 2 minutes she ate the mouse..this F/T first time feeding is not going to be as easy as the You Tube video's are, i hope im wrong, Dah

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Feeding thawed frozen is actually fairly simple once you know and understand HOW to do it ..

I’ll send you a guide to the ‘hairdryer’ method by PM.


In the meantime here’s four of my Royals all eating at the same time .. all four struck in less than two minutes.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...631b5c4fc9.jpg


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Thomas S

my last live feed drop was to see the mouse movements and when the snake might strike, i watched this in a dark room so she would not see me, everything went good, she did strike the mouse from completely inside her hide, i was worried about that because she hardly ever comes out from her hide when the Big Bad Wolf comes home, Lol.. then she dropped the live mouse that she just killed. I thought to myself, can she smell me in the room watching her feed? Thank god after about 2 minutes she ate the mouse..this F/T first time feeding is not going to be as easy as the You Tube video's are, i hope im wrong, Dah

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Think POSITIVE! ;) You'll get better at it & so will your snake.

the main thing i worry about is: if i use the hair dryer method, if it takes let say over a minute to strike, then she drops it and then she looks at it by that time we ware going on 3 minutes or more, then that mouse has cooled off significantly because its been dead for months now..when the snake strikes and coils, is it better to do the mouse tail tug with the tongs or my gloved hand?

Sometimes I think we overthink these things and it’s really not that complicated. Any animal will eat anything it can when it’s hungry enough. If I really want a snake to eat f/t, which all of mine do, then that’s what they’ll eat, even if it takes them a year to get the message. I’m not one for jumping through many hoops when it comes to feeding my pets. As long as I know the animal isn’t ill and their husbandry is dialed in, it’s basically eat or starve at my place, and obviously none of my snakes are starving. I usually use a hairdryer to warm up the prey items before offering them to the snakes but this last feeding round I decided not to superheat their prey and they all still ate. I’m a firm believer that the hunger ALWAYS wins and I’ve never seen a healthy animal starve itself to death because it preferred a different food item or because their food was a little too cold. I would be curious to see it though. 🤨

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Thomas S

the main thing i worry about is: if i use the hair dryer method, if it takes let say over a minute to strike, then she drops it and then she looks at it by that time we ware going on 3 minutes or more, then that mouse has cooled off significantly because its been dead for months now..when the snake strikes and coils, is it better to do the mouse tail tug with the tongs or my gloved hand?

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Gloved hands will appear threatening to a snake- more than likely she'll back off completely in fear, & this won't help at all. Feeding tongs should always be used because they have NO "body heat" & are barely perceived by the snake at all, thus not causing alarm & refusal to feed. So keep your "big ol' hands out of there" & think positive, lol. :D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Thomas S

the main thing i worry about is: if i use the hair dryer method, if it takes let say over a minute to strike, then she drops it and then she looks at it by that time we ware going on 3 minutes or more, then that mouse has cooled off significantly because its been dead for months now..when the snake strikes and coils, is it better to do the mouse tail tug with the tongs or my gloved hand?

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To be honest after a minute the mouse won’t be warm ... they cool rapidly ..

That’s why suggest a good blast with the hairdryer ..have the viv glass open .. then offer it INSTANTLY whilst still warm .. if it strikes but misses or doesn’t strike then simply repeat ... hot blast ... offer instantly etc etc


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Keep in mind that even when they strike live prey, it does cool off significantly before they actually swallow it. You don't need to worry about it still being warm for that part, just for the strike.

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Originally Posted by nikkubus

Keep in mind that even when they strike live prey, it does cool off significantly before they actually swallow it. You don't need to worry about it still being warm for that part, just for the strike.

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That maybe true but they mentioned it was dropping it and nothing was happening for 3 minutes or so ... but many Royals simply won’t eat cold mice off the ground .... hence my suggestion of repeated reheating.


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Thomas S

the main thing i worry about is: if i use the hair dryer method, if it takes let say over a minute to strike, then she drops it and then she looks at it by that time we ware going on 3 minutes or more, then that mouse has cooled off significantly because its been dead for months now..when the snake strikes and coils, is it better to do the mouse tail tug with the tongs or my gloved hand?

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As regards the mouse-tail tug trick .. I’ve only ever really done that with Boas ( who occasionally seem to go to sleep before swallowing )
:)

It does occasionally work on Royals of course.

Always used tongs


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Another good feeding night thanks to the hairdryer :)

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...29703bce13.jpg


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