How to set up a PVC cage (AP T8) With Pictures!

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Originally Posted by danojeno

It is cleaner, but not necessary, to have AP install the RHPs. In addition to the basic install, which looks quite easy, they router channels for the power cords. This looks alot cleaner. Now, if you have 78 to 82 temps in that room, you are not going to be running squat for heat, if the fluorescents are on. The other day we had a crazy heat spell and I came home to a screaming Herpstat alarm, set to 86. Ambient room temp was 82 and the fluorescents cooked up the cage to 86. Temp gradient is easy to maintain...unless your room temp equals your ideal ambient or cool side temp. Then any heat you throw at the hot side erases the gradient. Not a big deal, but gotta watch out for the light usage when the room is warm.

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I wonder whether Animal Plastics would router channels for RHP power cords when I order the T8 so that if I end up needing the RHPs next winter, I could add the RHPs myself and still end up with the same clean look as though AP had done the install.

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Originally Posted by The Serpent Merchant

Your list looks good.

All 3 heat sources will need their own thermostat (or thermostat channel in the case of the herpstat 2 or 4).

You have 3 options:

1. Get a herpstat 4 from the beginning. This is as future proof as possible. If nothing else you could use the other channels to control the lights, and even musters.

2. Get a herpstat 1 now and if you need to add RHP's down the road get a herpstat 2 for them at that time as well.

3. Get a herpstat 2 from the start. If you need RHP's stop using heat tape and only the RHP's.

You cannot run heat tape without a thermostat.


I wouldn't consider other thermostats currently. The herpstat thermostat line has more features, are safer, have great support, and are a better deal $ for $. Than anything else on the market.

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Hmm.. That's a tough call. If I start with the herpstat 1 but end up needing to get a herpstat 2, I'll have spent roughly the same amount of $ for the 1 and 2 as I would if I just broke down and bought the 4 to start with. On the other hand, if I start with the 1 and don't end up needing the RHPs and the herpstat 4, I'll have saved $200 (the cost of the T8 plus the S&H). If start with the herpstat 2 and attach the to the bottom of the T8 and (between the T8 and the flexwatt) but then need to go with the RHPs next winter, how difficult is it to move the probe from the bottom of the T8 to the inside of the T8 without damaging the probe or the flexwatt?

Also, for the flexwatt, you use the foil tape, not the double sticky tape, right?

Thanks again, Aaron for all your help!

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Originally Posted by BPGuy

Hmm.. That's a tough call. If I start with the herpstat 1 but end up needing to get a herpstat 2, I'll have spent roughly the same amount of $ for the 1 and 2 as I would if I just broke down and bought the 4 to start with. On the other hand, if I start with the 1 and don't end up needing the RHPs and the herpstat 4, I'll have saved $200 (the cost of the T8 plus the S&H). If start with the herpstat 2 and attach the to the bottom of the T8 and (between the T8 and the flexwatt) but then need to go with the RHPs next winter, how difficult is it to move the probe from the bottom of the T8 to the inside of the T8 without damaging the probe or the flexwatt?

Also, for the flexwatt, you use the foil tape, not the double sticky tape, right?

Thanks again, Aaron for all your help!

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It requires pulling off the flexwatt. It isn't hard, and should only take 15-20 minutes.

I use foil tape for my heat tape.

Make sure you ask AP to put a thermostat probe slot in the middle of the cage for you. They will do this for free.

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Originally Posted by BPGuy

I wonder whether Animal Plastics would router channels for RHP power cords when I order the T8 so that if I end up needing the RHPs next winter, I could add the RHPs myself and still end up with the same clean look as though AP had done the install.

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Can't hurt to ask Ali, she is terrific.

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk 2

I just finished speaking with Ali. Yes, they will route channels in the T8 for RHP power cords just in case I end up needing RHPs next winter. She was super nice. I went ahead and placed my order:

• Black T8 with sliding glass doors
• Lock
• Divider
• Two fluorescent lights
• Flexwatt (decided just to get it from AP rather than messing with ordering from Reptile Basics--although RB was a little bit less price-wise, it was only $12)

Now I just need to order the Herpstat. I've decided to go with the Herpstat 2. It is not that much more than the Herpstat. If need RHPs, I can run them off the Herpstat 2. if I need RHPs and flexwatt at same time, I can always run the flexwatt off one of the thermostats and run both RHPs off the other thermostat.

Thank you again, Aaron, for starting this thread and all your comments. Thanks to everyone else who chimed in. Can't wait for the T8 to arrive!

If I plan on using the flexwatt underneath the T8 should I buy the 8inch base? Or is the flexwatt safe to set on like a plastic desk, wooden table or on carpet floors?

This is what I plan on buying

T8 for 1 adult male python
2 White lights
1 flexwatt belly heat
8 inch circle screen
8 inch base (if I need it)

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Originally Posted by Zarrh

If I plan on using the flexwatt underneath the T8 should I buy the 8inch base? Or is the flexwatt safe to set on like a plastic desk, wooden table or on carpet floors?

This is what I plan on buying

T8 for 1 adult male python
2 White lights
1 flexwatt belly heat
8 inch circle screen
8 inch base (if I need it)

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I wouldn't put it on carpet, but a wood or plastic desk should be fine.

Hey guys, I have a question...

i have a 48"x24"x18"high pvcx cage, this cage has a divider in the middle. I am housing two ball pythons.
i have nighttime lows that are close to 68. I did not want to purchase RHP's, so what I did instead was purchase 4 feet of 12" heat tape and 4 feet of 4" heat tape. The 12" runs along the entire front, the 4" runs along the entire back side. I plan to keep the front at 90-92 degrees surface temp above the aspen bedding, and the back at around 80 degrees surface temp above the aspen bedding. I will be using a herpstat 4 to control these. I bought the herpstat 4 to future proof myself for when I decide to buys some racks. Does anyone see an issue with setting this up this way? The only worry I have is if the heat tape fails on both sides at once, they have nowhere to escape the heat, I don't think this is very likely to happen, but I could be wrong. If so I could always hook a dimmer to the back side, so the temps could never exceed 90 degrees in case of failure. Keep in mind I do monitor temps with thermostats and IR temp guns.

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Originally Posted by xdertonx

Hey guys, I have a question...

i have a 48"x24"x18"high pvcx cage, this cage has a divider in the middle. I am housing two ball pythons.
i have nighttime lows that are close to 68. I did not want to purchase RHP's, so what I did instead was purchase 4 feet of 12" heat tape and 4 feet of 4" heat tape. The 12" runs along the entire front, the 4" runs along the entire back side. I plan to keep the front at 90-92 degrees surface temp above the aspen bedding, and the back at around 80 degrees surface temp above the aspen bedding. I will be using a herpstat 4 to control these. I bought the herpstat 4 to future proof myself for when I decide to buys some racks. Does anyone see an issue with setting this up this way? The only worry I have is if the heat tape fails on both sides at once, they have nowhere to escape the heat, I don't think this is very likely to happen, but I could be wrong. If so I could always hook a dimmer to the back side, so the temps could never exceed 90 degrees in case of failure. Keep in mind I do monitor temps with thermostats and IR temp guns.

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The setup you just described will not do what you want it to. Heat tape has very little if any effect on air temperatures inside the cage, especially not in cages this big.

I know it's been a few months since this thread has been hit upon, but it's so informative that I hope no one minds :) Also, I'm back into the hobby from a four year hiatus. Go me!

Anywho, I have a couple questions for those who have dealt with AP. I bought my new babies day before yesterday, and they are just hanging out in 6qt tubs at the moment. I decided that this time around I would like to have my collection (at least, part of it) outside of a rack. I was thinking earlier today that I'd love to find something like the T8 that I can divide, and while I know they have a divider, I was wondering if I would be able to divide it into 3 or 4 separate areas? Looking at the design of the cage, I'm not even sure if it would be feasible to have dividers at the center of the glass, since I know they are precision cut to fit tightly. A 24x24 space for a hatchling is beyond too large. 12x24 or 16x24 sounds better. However, I don't want to purchase a smaller cage that I will outgrow (and obviously they are less cost efficient).

Also, if I am able to divide it into multiple sections, do you think they would further accommodate me by running heat tape along the entire rear end of the cage? I did see in a previous post that it is advised to purchase the flexwatt from Reptile Basics to save on money, so I suppose asking Ali about running the tape lengthwise would be a moot inquiry.. While on the topic of heat sources, would the fluorescent lights fit in the partitioned spaces I noted earlier? Have these lights been found cheaper elsewhere? With my plan requiring three or four of them, they're a big hit on the pocket at $20 each. But I also don't frequent home improvement shops, so I have no idea what those cost.

Hopefully this didn't turn into too much of a nonsensical ramble! I need to be in bed 5 hours ago ;) But I've been gone so long, it's hard to pull myself away from the forums again!