Help!!!!

I just fed Oakley and the skin behind his head separated from his muscles. What has happened and what can I do to keep it from getting infected? He hasn't eaten in a few weeks and we got him a medium mouse to try and feed him today. well when I got done feeding him i left him in his tank we feed them in and when he got done I looked in the cage and saw that he had pulled his skin apart. the spot is about 1" long. He also just finished shedding a few days ago. I had noticed a red spot forming at the same area and didn't think anything of it.

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Originally Posted by Little B-Py

I just fed Oakley and the skin behind his head separated from his muscles. What has happened and what can I do to keep it from getting infected? He hasn't eaten in a few weeks and we got him a medium mouse to try and feed him today. well when I got done feeding him i left him in his tank we feed them in and when he got done I looked in the cage and saw that he had pulled his skin apart. the spot is about 1" long. He also just finished shedding a few days ago. I had noticed a red spot forming at the same area and didn't think anything of it.

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Did you see exactly what happened?
We can't really tell you what we think happened and what to do without pictures, so do your best to get some up please.

You may want to see a herp vet. If you feel it is severe enough and you can't figure out what happened.

Well I called our vet and he said to just put neosporon on it for 2-3 days and if nothing changes to take it to him.

On top of what the vet said, is he on newspaper or paper towel? If not it may be a good idea to switch him to it for a couple of days to keep dirt out of it.

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Originally Posted by Little B-Py

Well I called our vet and he said to just put neosporon on it for 2-3 days and if nothing changes to take it to him.

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Make sure the Neosporin you use is non-pain killer. No extra-strength either. Plain neosporin.

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Originally Posted by jrosen123

On top of what the vet said, is he on newspaper or paper towel? If not it may be a good idea to switch him to it for a couple of days to keep dirt out of it.

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He is on coconut bark so there is no way dirt is gonna get in it. i'll make sure about the neosporin though.

coconut bark can be a source of bacteria! you need to switch to paper towel or newsprint until it is healed. you should switch out the paper every other day to keep the bacteria down. i also suggest sterilizing the tub often as well. once the snake has healed you can go back to the bark if you want.

Paper towel and polysporin.
This mishap sounds a little strange.
Where are your pics?
-Steven

Here is the pic of the injury. The light pink area is his muscle
https://ball-pythons.net/gallery/fil...6/100_1480.jpg

I have an appointment today so when I get home I will remove his bark and disinfect his hide. he is in a tank right now and not a tub and I do not have a tub big enough to put him back into. Just put down 1 layer of paper towels over the whole place?

Also, he isn't acting like it hurts him, like when I go to put the neosporin on him he just lays there. Is this weird?

Reptiles are often stoic. I've never seen skin just seperate, was it a live rodent? Could it have bitten him?
A tub is cheap at walmart or the dollar store if you decide it would be easier to move him to a new tub, instead of emptying the tank.
Non-pain relief neosporin only, and I hope he heals up. If it doesn't look like it's healing, I'd definitely say a vet visit.

It only happened last night right before my first post on here. The mouse was dead and dethawed. It was the first time he has eaten in a few weeks and the mouse was also the same size we have been feeding him.

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Originally Posted by Little B-Py

It only happened last night right before my first post on here. The mouse was dead and dethawed. It was the first time he has eaten in a few weeks and the mouse was also the same size we have been feeding him.

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I thought you weren't suppose to fee during or right after shedding because their skin/scales are so sensitive at this time. That is probably what happened.:weirdface

Can you post a picture of your cage?

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Originally Posted by snakelover88

I thought you weren't suppose to fee during or right after shedding because their skin/scales are so sensitive at this time. That is probably what happened.:weirdface

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who said right after a shed?
i think thats possibally the first time i have ever seen that on this forum

I think it has been a few days since his shed. I didn't know he was coming close because last time I played with him he still looked glossy.

Here is his cage.
https://ball-pythons.net/gallery/fil...6/100_1481.jpg

Also, what do you suggest cleaning/disinfecting with?

What could have happened is he scraped his heck on the log in the process of striking/ constricting.

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Originally Posted by nixer

who said right after a shed?
i think thats possibally the first time i have ever seen that on this forum

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If they seem jumpy they should be handled as little as possible until they have completed their shed, and if fed should only be offered small meals. This prevents a large meal from stretching out the delicate new skin and causing injury.
http://snaketracks.com/forum/viewtop...49e2b3d6df8fac

I don't feed him in his tank. i have a little blue steralite tub I put him in and I have to assist feed him because he won't eat by striking.

What is your habitat like? Do you have a heat lamp? Perhaps too close to lamp caused the initial affected area which was aggravated by having a meal ...:confused:

no heat lamps, just a UTH that sits around 90-95.

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Originally Posted by Bundu Boy

What is your habitat like? Do you have a heat lamp? Perhaps too close to lamp caused the initial affected area which was aggravated by having a meal ...:confused:

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Thats the first thing I thought, that looks like a burn to me. I HIGHLY doubt that the skin just ripped but I guess anything is possible...Do you have a lamp, heating pad (UTH) or (god forbid) a heat rock?

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Originally Posted by Little B-Py

no heat lamps, just a UTH that sits around 90-95.

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You beat me to it, how are you measuring that temperature?

ignore my post, I see there is no lamp....:P

I do wonder where that spot on his neck you said you saw came from....?

I have a thermometer with a probe on the bottom glass.

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Originally Posted by snakelover88

If they seem jumpy they should be handled as little as possible until they have completed their shed, and if fed should only be offered small meals. This prevents a large meal from stretching out the delicate new skin and causing injury.
http://snaketracks.com/forum/viewtop...49e2b3d6df8fac

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personally, i think that information is outdated and a load of bull. The new skin is there to fit the now larger snake, and is the whole reason why they shed. Within 30 min-1 hr the scales are dry, with maybe a little bit of their natural oil that seperates the old skin from the new still on them. I feed all 6 of my BP's their normal sized meals (now all small small rats) before, during (in deep blue, not during the actual peeling), and after sheds and I've never had a problem like this.

edit: also, the link provides a caresheet for kenyan sand boas, which is in no way relative to care for Ball Pythons.

So can we rule out the eating thing?

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Originally Posted by Purrrfect9

personally, i think that information is outdated and a load of bull. The new skin is there to fit the now larger snake, and is the whole reason why they shed. Within 30 min-1 hr the scales are dry, with maybe a little bit of their natural oil that seperates the old skin from the new still on them. I feed all 6 of my BP's their normal sized meals (now all small small rats) before, during (in deep blue, not during the actual peeling), and after sheds and I've never had a problem like this.

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Honestly, I've never heard of this. I've fed when they are in blue ( I feed F/T, so if they are hungry, they eat), and right after sheds.

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Originally Posted by Little B-Py

I have to assist feed him because he won't eat by striking.

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Not all snakes have a hard, striking feeding response. Some sort of just pick it up with their mouths and swallow. I'd double check all your husbandry with the care sheets on this site if you're assist feeding him every time because he wont eat himself. Is there another issue he has? was he a premature hatchling? If the husbandry and enclosure is correct, you most likely won't have to assist feed. I'd also consult a breeder about assist feeding techniques and when to implement them since doing it incorrectly can harm your snake.

Perhaps someone with experience on this topic can step in.

As for your original issue in the post, he may have cut himself on something in his enclosure. As with any animal and any vet, if you don't like the vets response to your situation, get a second opinion pronto. For the meanwhile, place him in as sterile of an environment as possible -- paper towel substrate, two clean hides and a water dish that you clean often.

I trust this vet's opinion because he deals with snakes often. The only thing on the care sheet that isn't totally correct is his cold side temps because we live in a cold house right now. I'm also not sure where he would have injured himself because I didn't see anything until he was done feeding.

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Originally Posted by Little B-Py

I trust this vet's opinion because he deals with snakes often. The only thing on the care sheet that isn't totally correct is his cold side temps because we live in a cold house right now. I'm also not sure where he would have injured himself because I didn't see anything until he was done feeding.

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I agree that you should be keeping his enclosure clean and using polysporin, but a mysterious injury like that would have me frustrated beyond believe if my vet said it was from eating.

The only other thing I can think of is that it is a rash/deterioration of some sort similar to scale rot, how that is possible I don't know. Personally I would be looking for another vet, but for now just keep him clean and closely monitor his progress. Bring him back to your vet if he does not improve and hopefully your vet will start looking at other potential causes.

On another note, does anyone know if scar tissue can be more susceptible to damage from expansion during eating? If there was previous scar tissue I would assume you could notice it before so I don't know if I am just shooting in the dark here.

Missi, you have been misinformed. I thought it may have been from eating, not the vet. I explained the situation to the vet and he said to put the neosporin on it. The people that posted, thanks for the help BTW, were disproving the eating suggestion I had.

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Originally Posted by Little B-Py

Missi, you have been misinformed. I thought it may have been from eating, not the vet. I explained the situation to the vet and he said to put the neosporin on it. The people that posted, thanks for the help BTW, were disproving the eating suggestion I had.

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Okie dokie gotcha, I thought the vet had indicated that. Either way your doing all you can for now, just keep an eye on him and hopefully your vet has some constructive thoughts as to what could be going on.

he said to try the sporin for a few days and if nothing changes to bring him in. he isn't even acting like he is hurt or anything. Is that typical? I can't imagine having my skin separate from my muscles and flap over and just be like "whatev"

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Originally Posted by Little B-Py

he said to try the sporin for a few days and if nothing changes to bring him in. he isn't even acting like he is hurt or anything. Is that typical? I can't imagine having my skin separate from my muscles and flap over and just be like "whatev"

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Well he likely figures it is a injury...simple as that, so treat it like an injury. To him the cause is not too important but the treatment is more so. I would also be concerned about a response like that but at least he was smart enough to tell you to come back if there is no improvement.

Like I said, I highly trust this vet. He has delt with one of my buddy's uncle's burmese and he also deals with my buddy's ball along with all of our dogs.

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Originally Posted by snakelover88

I thought you weren't suppose to fee during or right after shedding because their skin/scales are so sensitive at this time. That is probably what happened.:weirdface

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whoever told you that is mental . you can feed a snake 2 mins after it sheds and it wont hurt it .


that tear in the skin looks to be an old wound (that wasnt completely healed) that split open ..
only way i have ever seen skin just split like that is if they were VERY VERY malnurished and dehydrated ..
i have actually witnessed a snake in that shape actually split its skin when it finally was able to eat a real meal ..

He hasn't eaten in a few weeks, like i previously posted so I didn't think it mattered.

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Originally Posted by Little B-Py

He hasn't eaten in a few weeks, like i previously posted so I didn't think it mattered.

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a few weeks isnt the matter in which i was talking about the kind of health i was reffering to ,i was speaking of months of not eating or getting a regular clean water supply ..sorry i didnt clearify .

young snakes skin is easy to damage versus an adults . and you combine that with what i mentioned in first post then you get a bad situation ..

gotcha. thanks everyone for the help. I will keep ya'll updated with progress. So, how would I know if it is getting better anyways?

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Originally Posted by Little B-Py

gotcha. thanks everyone for the help. I will keep ya'll updated with progress. So, how would I know if it is getting better anyways?

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Well, no further extension of the wound is good, scabbing is good, puss is not so good but that depends on the amount. If you aren't sure don't hesitate to take him back to the vet so he can decide if he is progressing well.

Get him out of the pebble-filled tank. Rocks are a breeding ground for bacteria and are freezing cold if exposed to a cold room.

I would go get a 15qt tub, get one hide, put some paper towels in the bottom and put the UTH on half of the underside. Get a DIMMER to regulate the heat and measure it with a digital thermometer on the bottom of the tub, underneath the paper towels.

You want the temperatures to be between 92-95 on the warm side and 82-84 on the cool side. If you can't get those temperatures with your current set up, change it. Tubs are easy because the plastic holds heat like nobody's business.

Get a small hobby soldering iron to melt a few holes along the sides(not in the lid). I generally do 5-7 holes on the long sides and 4-5 on the short sides.

Once you get the temperatures and everything set, stick the snake in, make sure it has fresh water in a small crock bowl, close the lid, secure the lid, cover the whole tub with a dark pillowcase in a quiet part of the house and LEAVE IT ALONE. You need to leave the snake alone for at least a week, just check on it every two days or so and see if the water needs changing.

Then let it alone for another week.

After two weeks is up with NO handling WHATSOEVER, go get a LIVE small adult mouse. Put the mouse in a secure critter keeper or cage with food/water for 30 minutes to an hour. Make sure the room is quiet, dark and with NO traffic.

When this hour is up of pre-scenting, get the mouse out, drop it on the opposite end of the tub that the snake is on and CLOSE THE LID. Cover the tub with the dark pillowcase and LEAVE. Wait 30 minutes to an hour and see how the snake is doing. Well-fed mice will not do anything to the snake.

If the snake doesn't eat, remove the mouse and try again next week with the same procedure. Do not handle the snake unless absolutely necessary and keep it covered.

I would also have a vet check for internal parasites by getting a fecal done. Shouldn't cost more than $20 and deworming meds are very inexpensive.

But in all honesty, the snake needs to be out of that 20-gallon freezing cold tank. The cold pebbles aren't doing a whole lot of good either. Get him in something small such as a 15qt tub(I have pictures if you need them). It will help him feel alot more secure and not out in the open. The tubs are more like burrows to them and will help him get happy about wanting to eat.

I'm sorry SatanicIntention, but I REALLY disagree about the mouse not hurting the snake part. I know you probably have tons more experience than me, but I've had one of my ball pythons attacked by a mouse. I got a mouse for free, so I figured I'd give my girl a shot at live feeding...it bit her 4 times in less than 15 seconds...it flat out attacked her. No, it didn't do much damage, but she certainly seemed traumatized for the next couple weeks of feeding.

I really don't see why you insist that feeding it a live mouse is a cure to a problem like this. Why does it need to be live, if the owner clearly states that the snake feeds on f/t? How is this relevant? Also, why is this the right time to push a fecal, when you have no idea if this person has had it done or not?

This person asked for help about an injury, not for your entire makeover of their husbandry. Sure, I can understand where one or two suggestions might come from, but this just seems rediculous.

Becky has a great description of how to easily create a secure, clean and proper enclosure which IS essential to healing a wound such as the OP is dealing with. Although I do not understand why the feeding part was relevant considering this snake is wounded and already easily feeding on F/t, and is injured so very unlikely to have an easy time with live prey if not absolutely necessary (which it is not). I did not know the OP had pebbles in the tank, but the OP also has already been told to use paper towel and sanitize the tank entirely.

I mentioned the feeding because when a snake is having to be ASSIST FED because it doesn't have a feeding response, then there is a PROBLEM. Yes? The snake is either bored, doesn't recognize the dead mice as a food source, or has other health problems such as internal parasites or the husbandry is off(which it is).

And live mice that are well fed are perfectly fine to leave in the enclosure for an hour, especially a small adult. I've left hoppers in with 65g babies overnight. No missing eyeballs(usually a missing mouse though). Mice and rats don't "attack". If they are stressed, they will defend themselves. Stick a piece of food in the enclosure if you're worried. I've yet to have a mouse take a chunk out of any of my snakes and none of my 45+ snakes are traumatized by me leaving a mouse overnight in their tubs.

Satanic, thanks for the help but you have misread somewhere, not sure where though. I had coconut bark in the tank, not pebbles. I also cleaned out the whole thing and replaced the coconut bark with paper towels.

I'm not gonna go out and buy another tub just to have my 40 sitting around. I didn't buy this tank to have it sitting empty so tubs aren't an option. Could I just get a small UTH for the cold side to try and warm it up? What do you suggest?

I've only scanned this thread, my apologies if I duplicate a response, etc..

As far as getting the cold side up in temp. I keep my BP in a tub, but also keep the house at around 60 to 65, so I have two UTH, one for each end. I have a T-stat for each and run the warm one at 91 or so and the cool at 82 or so. I think that if you add an UTH and a t-stat it should help your situation out.

that is doable. Thanks for the help.

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Originally Posted by Little B-Py

It only happened last night right before my first post on here. The mouse was dead and dethawed. It was the first time he has eaten in a few weeks and the mouse was also the same size we have been feeding him.

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The quote above is why I thought the OP was feeding o.k with F/T

The quote below I totally missed and gives a very good purpose to Becky's instructions. I agree that a live mouse is not harmful if watched and also agree that a live mouse is the best way to help a non-eater.

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Originally Posted by Little B-Py

I don't feed him in his tank. i have a little blue steralite tub I put him in and I have to assist feed him because he won't eat by striking.

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The only further point I would suggest is to use this method once the wound has recovered a little more.