Good morning!

Good morning. We are new to this site and need a little help. First we would like to say thanks for letting us join.

My son got his first snake a week ago. She's just a baby. Wondering if anyone can tell us what it is (we know it's a ball python) but we aren't sure of what the color would be called.

Second he has had her/him for a week today. He tried to feed her last thursday and friday and she would not eat. (he had her 3 days when he first tried to feed her) the lat time she had eaten was the saturday before purchase which would have been saturday the 24th of this month.

He is also having a bit of an issue getting the humidity to stay up.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...psrlmaqkdd.jpg

Well first off, welcome to the forum. Can you tell us about your setup? Temps humidity, what equipment you use to measure those. How much does the snake weigh?

Hi thanks for answering.
She is in a 40g tank with a screen lid.
Red heat light for night and a UV light for day.
The temps in the enclosure are between 80 and 91 on the warm side.
The cool side seems to be staying between 75 and 80. I think those numbers are good.

He has a hidey hole under the heat lamp on the warm side.
Aspen snake bedding with some moss mixed in for flooring.
A huge water bowl.
A very large piece of bark for her to climb all over.

What do you think of her color?

Thanks.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Maybeka

Hi thanks for answering.
She is in a 40g tank with a screen lid.
Red heat light for night and a UV light for day.
The temps in the enclosure are between 80 and 91 on the warm side.
The cool side seems to be staying between 75 and 80. I think those numbers are good.

He has a hidey hole under the heat lamp on the warm side.
Aspen snake bedding with some moss mixed in for flooring.
A huge water bowl.
A very large piece of bark for her to climb all over.

What do you think of her color?

Thanks.

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Ah, well there's your problem. She doesn't feel secure in a tank that big and open, I'd downsize her enclosure. Check this thread out. Do you have a thermostat to regulate the light? As for the color, she just looks like a nice normal to me.

Oh well that helps a bit. We thought that the bigger tank would be better.
She does come out every night and goes all around her enclosure up and over the branch and checks everything out.

My son has a gauge for the heat and one for the humidity. Heat seems to be ok, but humidity just isn't staying up.

Is this the reason she won't eat? I was told by one person she should eat within a week of bringing her home and something i read said she may not eat for a couple of weeks.

She was eating frozen thawed when he got her and when we showed her one she totally ignored it and wanted out of the box he was feeding her in.

Another pic:


https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...psde0rcu85.jpg

Once you get all the temps and humidity set in the cage - I would simply feed right in the cage. It tends to add additional stress when you move them to a separate container for feeding.

You may want to check into a thermostat to control the heating devices. That is very important. The most important piece of equipment you can have. I would also invest in a temp gun so that you can get accurate readings of temps.

Best of luck to you and congrats on your new snake.

As above plus ..

For the time being I'd keep the set up you have already . In my experience a bigger enclosure is fine if it's full of branches / bark / fake foliage/ plastic plants just so there isn't too much open space/s .

Also block out the back and sides with card or black paper to give even more security.

Don't handle until it's eaten at least once or twice .

Research feeding strategies -- basically feeding in the tank , at evening time and heat the mouse up with a hairdryer ...

Hopefully you have or will get a thermostat to regulate the heat source..

Plus as already suggested get yourself a ten quid digital temp gun !!

Good luck


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I concur.

Feed in the tank.

Lots of hides, stuff, etc. so the little one feels safe in that tank.

Definitely get a temp gun! You need to know the temps on the ground!

Make sure to defrost the prey item properly and offer properly. Also, offer no more than once a week. Too often can stress the snake out.

No handling until the snake eats 2-3 consecutive meals for you.

Sorry to be brief, and I can write more later, but I have a business meeting. I saw this thread and wanted to help.

Feel free to ask for clarification on anything.

Good luck!

She is a normal. Welcome to the normal club. #normalsarebeautiful

Also balls don't need uv at all. They are nocturnal.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Sunnieskys

She is a normal. Welcome to the normal club. #normalsarebeautiful

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A beautiful 'normal' at that :)

I actually prefer the standard normals to many of the new fangled faded morphs which cost a fortune but look as though they are permanently in shed mode :)


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Zincubus

A beautiful 'normal' at that :)

I actually prefer the standard normals to many of the new fangled faded morphs which cost a fortune but look as though they are permanently in shed mode :)


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You also get to avoid all the issues that certain morphs have, I think they're rather underrated.

Hello, congrats on your first snake and welcome to the forum and the wonderful world of snake keeping.

I'm no good at morph identification so I'll let somebody else help you out with that.

As for the feeding, I would wait a week and try again. It's not uncommon for snakes, especially BPs, to refuse food after they are moved to a new home.

A few suggestions to make enjoying your new pet easier on you and your son:
- I always advise new keepers to hold off on handling new snakes until the snake has eaten three consecutive meals without refusal. This helps them acclimate and get on a regular eating schedule.
- Proper husbandry is the most important part of keeping snakes. It's very important to provide proper temperature and humidy to replicate their natural environment.
- Snakes, especially BPs love and require security. They like to feel as safe as possible. Providing a proper enclosure with proper hides is very important. Think of it like this: they basically go through life knowing 2 things: eat and don't get eaten.
- Learn your snake. What I mean by this is watch your snake and learn their mannerisms, read and study as much as you can in the species. The more you know, the better you can provide for your snake. Which means more time to enjoy your pet.

- ALL heat sources should be regulated by a thermostat to prevent dangerous heat spikes which can cause serious burns or worse to your snake.

Once you get your setup dialed in, which can be frustrating, it's really easy from there. Just daily equipment checks, weekly feeding, spot cleaning and occasional full enclosure cleanings.

I hope this helps.
Lastly, if you would like to share some info on your setup we may be able to help you with some common beginner mistakes.

Good luck, enjoy your new pet!!
Feel free to ask any questions.

You will never get the humity up with an open screen top. Best way is to cut a piece of marker board or masonite to fit over the screen. You can cut a six or seven inch hole in it for your heat lamp. Don't worry about putting any air holes in it, it isn't going to fit close enough to suffocate your snake. This is a much nicer solution than messing around with tin foil or towels. Your water bowl will provide enough humidity, though you will want to add some damp moss or something during shed.

In the evening this little snake comes out of the hidey and has been all over her enclosure.
Yesterday was a bit odd though, she was awake a lot and roaming during the day. She curled up on the cool side under the branch for a while, then back in her hole then out again a bit later.

And we were also wondering, we have not seen this snakes tongue, not once!
My son was looking at 2 snakes when he picked her, the other snake was shedding and it's tongue was going going a LOT, this one hasn't flicked her tongue one time since he got her, not even when there's a mouse in front of her face.

And he still cannot get her to eat though. My son has owned her now for a week (this past monday was a week that he brought her home).

Thank you !

How is your tank looking now? Do you think you could put a picture? It probably isn't eating due to not feeling secure, like others have said cover the sides of the tank in paper (You can tape it but DO NOT put tape inside- the snake can and will get stuck and get hurt). Also, I might have missed it but do you have hides on the hot and cold side? They should be identical. Finally about the moving to cold during the day, my babies do this sometimes to thermoregulate, even during the day. There are tips and tricks for getting snakes to eat, but I think it might be more of a husbandry problem. I can't say anything about the tounge thing, though.

I am a little confused.

Have you checked the temps with a temp gun?

Have you added many more hides and/or other items to make the snake feel more secure?

Have you been handling her? Or leaving her alone?

How are you defrosting the F/T mouse and how are you offering?

People have given solid responses and advice, but I do not see where in the thread you have addressed the issues (sorry if I missed it).

Without more information and confirmation of proper husbandry, I do not know what to tell you about the animal not eating, flicking its tongue, etc.

Please advise when you have more information and/or have made changes to your setup if necessary.

We would like to help.

We have covered 3 sides of the enclosure.

The heat on the warm and cool side seem to be staying at a good range, where they should be.

My son has a hide on the warm side, I honestly don't remember him having one on the cool side, i will have to look and if he doesn't i will make sure he knows to get one immediately. She does have a huge branch that she likes to hide under on the cool side and it goes down so she can hide under it. I do not believe he has a temp gun so i will tell him he needs to pick up one of those also. (my son is not a young child, he is over 18 and a college student).

Her water bowl is under the heat lamp.

When he defrosts the mouse (he has tried pinkies and xsmall mice) he will put it in hot water for 10 min or so until it feels warm, then put it in front of her face with tongs. When he does that she will turn her head and slither away completely uninterested. Last night he put it on the ground in front of her hide on the warm side (on a piece of slate rock that's there so she won't ingest bedding) and he left it there in hopes that she would smell it. When she came back out, she just slithered right across it like it wasn't even there.

Oh and i am posting and not him is because he is at work all day and is in the field, no were near a computer.
He goes to school in the evening a couple of days a week and it's just easier for me sitting at work behind a desk, to ask these questions for him.

He really does want to do right by her and he is getting a bit worried about her not eating.

And if forgot to address the handling part, he has picked her up a few times to do things in the cage, but for the most part he has left her alone to explore and settle in.


Thanks.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Maybeka

In the evening this little snake comes out of the hidey and has been all over her enclosure.
Yesterday was a bit odd though, she was awake a lot and roaming during the day. She curled up on the cool side under the branch for a while, then back in her hole then out again a bit later.

And we were also wondering, we have not seen this snakes tongue, not once!
My son was looking at 2 snakes when he picked her, the other snake was shedding and it's tongue was going going a LOT, this one hasn't flicked her tongue one time since he got her, not even when there's a mouse in front of her face.

And he still cannot get her to eat though. My son has owned her now for a week (this past monday was a week that he brought her home).

Thank you !

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Hi And Welcome. I have a normal as well. When I purchased mine back in August I waited a week to feed. She didn't take it. I waited another week and she ate it. She has taken everything since. As for the tongue I have no idea. My girl flickers normally and more when stressed. It's good that she is out and exploring. Good luck with the feeds!!:)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Maybeka

We have covered 3 sides of the enclosure.

The heat on the warm and cool side seem to be staying at a good range, where they should be.

My son has a hide on the warm side, I honestly don't remember him having one on the cool side, i will have to look and if he doesn't i will make sure he knows to get one immediately. She does have a huge branch that she likes to hide under on the cool side and it goes down so she can hide under it. I do not believe he has a temp gun so i will tell him he needs to pick up one of those also. (my son is not a young child, he is over 18 and a college student).

Her water bowl is under the heat lamp.

When he defrosts the mouse (he has tried pinkies and xsmall mice) he will put it in hot water for 10 min or so until it feels warm, then put it in front of her face with tongs. When he does that she will turn her head and slither away completely uninterested. Last night he put it on the ground in front of her hide on the warm side (on a piece of slate rock that's there so she won't ingest bedding) and he left it there in hopes that she would smell it. When she came back out, she just slithered right across it like it wasn't even there.

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Okay, a few things.

Good on covering 3 sides.

You absolutely need 2 identical, or virtually identical, hides. One for the hot side and one for the cool side. If the cage is big, and the snake as small, I would probably have two on the hot side and two on the cool side.

Keep the water bowl on the cool side.

Please define "good range" regarding temps. Additionally, if you are just getting air temps, and not ground temps with a temp gun, it could vary greatly.

Are the heat sources regulated? I know it has been asked, but if not, it's a recipe for problems.

No BP should eat pinkie mice. See the chart on the second post of this thread for proper feeding sizes: https://ball-pythons.net/forums/show...=feeding+chart

That could be partly why she is refusing.

The mouse is being defrosted improperly.

Here is how you should defrost:

Room temp to warmish (not hot) water for as long as it take to fully defrost (up to 3 hours for a medium rat, much less for smaller prey). Feel the rodent, it should have no hard spots (except for bones) and no cool spots. Abdomen should be soft to the touch.

Either use a hairdryer to warm up the rodent, or, drop in hot water (tap water - not anywhere near boiling water) for 30 seconds or so. If the latter, dry and offer. If the hairdryer, offer immediately.

Offer on tongs, and without hitting the snake with it, wiggle a little in front of her. If interested, keep doing it gently and see if she strikes. If not, but still interested, you can leave near her (not blocking her hide) for up to overnight. Do not leave more than 12 hours.

Snakes will likely not eat prey that has been cooked at all (hot water for ten minutes will start to cook a small prey item), and if they do, it's not good for them.

They want raw and whole prey. However, warmed prey and wiggled prey simulates a live rodent and is more likely to interest the snake.

Get the cage right; temps, hides, humidity, etc. Then leave her alone for a while. Then offer food as described.

I understand you son is busy, and I am not being judgmental, but he should probably check out the site. I also understand you want what's best for the snake, and I apologize for the long answers, but this isn't our first rodeo.

If you follow the advice you are getting here, things should be fine.

Just curious, where did you get that snake? It looks a lot like a Cypress to me with the white highlights on the sides. If it is a Cypress I've seen them sell for $600 to $1,500. Maybe the guy who had it didn't know what he had? I'm not an expert on Cypress but from the photos I've seen it looks very similar, here's one below that recently sold for $1,000:

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...d748bf2d8b.jpg

Yes my son is busy with school and college.... but he has definitely checked out this site. It was one of the first ones that popped up in his search engine when we were doing some research.

He has actually gotten a lot of his initial information on ball pythons from this site.

I’m new to snakes as well and got my first a few weeks ago. Maybe I have been lucky but I’d like to think I read a ton and researched my butt off prior to getting one. Other than getting an exo Terra which was given to me. I did what all the good folks here have suggested to you.

You must have a thermostat. Even if you go with an economy one to start and can’t swing the few hundred dollar ones. Get one !

you need to clutter that cage and get extra hides. Fake Plants can be had for really cheap and can totally clutter and fill in.

As mentioned Ned it doesn’t seem you are prepping the prey correctly.

First the size size seems off. No one mentioned this but you should also have the prey in a small ziplock bag and soak it in that. If you soak direct in water the prey looses all scent and gets washed out. Maybe that’s why. I leave mine in room temp to cold water for a solid hour. Then I get some warm water from the tap leave it there for another 15-20 min. Then I Hearn the head underneath my lamp for 30-45 seconds and offer.

My guy ate ate twice in a row for me I waited 5 days from getting him to feeding. He’s never struck off tongs. I just wiggle it by the hide and then leave it a bit away from the hide opening and he comes and gets it no problem.

Forgot ... the temps in the enclosure are staying right around 91 on the hot side during the day, and 80 on the cool.

Not sure if i mentioned the floor was aspen shavings with a little moss mixed in.
He does not have a heat pad underneath, but he does have a piece of slate rock next to her hide to warm up on if she wants to be out.

The type of thermometer that he uses is the digital kind that has the wire and you hang it on the side and the wire goes inside the enclosure.

I will tell him to stop and get another hide and look at the temp guns.

Another question though, you said to put the water on the cool side of the tank?
I have read several things that said the water should be on the hot side in order to help the humidity? That is also what we were told when we got her, to put it on the warm side..... so Am i confused here?

I hate to be a pain, but do appreciate all the information.

I could be wrong but especially in a tank like yours you need some heat under neath. Not sure if your heat lamp is going to heat the bottom that is why folks are telling you to get an infared heat gun. I got mine cheap on amazon $15. That way you can tell the temp wherever you point it. The prob style you have is only going to take the temp where the probe is nothing more nothing less. I was also told the Under belly heat helps with digestion.

Some people use radiant heat panels but those are in a pvc tank and it’s a different ball game then you have going on here.

Also just because you have a slate rock there doesn’t mean much. You have no idea what the temp is there. What if that thing is 110 degrees you don’t know and that could hurt or kill the snake. Not to mention there is no hide over it. The ball will never use it because it feels exposed and it just won’t do it.

I have two identical hides and one is over the under heat pad one is on the other cool side. My guy thermoregulates back and forth as he wishes.

Does yours climb towards the light or even have a way to. For about 5 -6 days my guy didn’t find the heated hide or like it at first. He would climb every night to the top of the cage to get his head and hang there. Since he found the heated hide he’s in heaven and is always there.


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Maybeka

Forgot ... the temps in the enclosure are staying right around 91 on the hot side during the day, and 80 on the cool.

Not sure if i mentioned the floor was aspen shavings with a little moss mixed in.
He does not have a heat pad underneath, but he does have a piece of slate rock next to her hide to warm up on if she wants to be out.

The type of thermometer that he uses is the digital kind that has the wire and you hang it on the side and the wire goes inside the enclosure.

I will tell him to stop and get another hide and look at the temp guns.

Another question though, you said to put the water on the cool side of the tank?
I have read several things that said the water should be on the hot side in order to help the humidity? That is also what we were told when we got her, to put it on the warm side..... so Am i confused here?

I hate to be a pain, but do appreciate all the information.

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If the cool side is 80F, that will be plenty to cause evaporation of the water and raise humidity.

It's not bad to have on the hot side, but in a glass tank, it will evaporate quicker and you will just have to fill more.

Definitely get the temp gun and advise what the temps actually are, again, on the ground.

If it's reading 91F on the hot side in the air, it could be much hotter on the ground and not good for the snake.

I recommend UTH for ground temps and CHE for ambient temps.

Again, BOTH MUST BE REGULATED!

No problem with the questions, you are not being a pain, please ask as many as you need to feel comfortable and make the best environment and life for the snake.

Ok, my son goes to school right after work today so i am stopping on my way home to pick up:

1. A temp gun.
2. A small fuzzy mouse (or x-small)
3. Another hide.

When i get home i'm going to put in the new hide (hopefully something new won't stress her out more) then i'm going to try out the temp gun and then i'm going to take out the piece of slate rock and take a pic of her enclosure.

Now the big branch she has that's in her tank is pretty big, it actually goes from one side of the tank about 3/4 of the way across to the other side. To big? Should i remove that also? Do they need something to climb on?

thanks for all your help !

Hi yes, she does look a lot like that Cypress picture you put up, but i doubt it.

My son got her from a Petsmart. He felt bad for them being in this teeny tiny 12 x 10 (estimated) size enclosure.

We've never bought any critters from Petsmart, even his Bearded dragon came from a breeder. We have since been told Petsmart wasn't good to buy reptiles from, but what's done is done i guess...he did what he did. Hopefully we can give her a better life than she had there..... and that is why we are on this forum ! :P

Just because you got her at Petsmart doesn’t mean she can’t be a cypress

again the bulk breeder selling to them maybe just didn’t know and you got lucky.

Id add to that list a thermostat cause you could fry this snake or as said earlier the prob reads 91 the ground could be more which is bad. The therm will turn the heat source off and on and keep things regulated.

Also so if you are going to the pet store get an under the tank heater zoo med makes ones that can be had at Petsmart. Do you have a reptile store in town?

Unfortunately we don't have a reptile store close by. The nearest one is about 30 miles different direction that home.
The only one i pass on my way home is a petsmart or a petco.

I will add thermostat to my list.

Hopefully petsmart has one since they are the ones who originally told him to never use an underground heater. The girl was supposedly an expert snake person since she herself has ball pythons at home...so she says.

So, you think she may be a Cypress? We've had several guesses on what she looks like. Most people just say she looks like a pretty colored normal. Someone else said she looked like a Normal colored Spotnose?

I just looked at this page with Cypress Ball Python pictures. She does look a lot like a couple of them on the top 2 rows.

https://www.morphmarket.com/us/c/rep...s/gene/cypress

But she does not look like this one:
http://www.worldofballpythons.com/morphs/cypress/

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Maybeka

Ok, my son goes to school right after work today so i am stopping on my way home to pick up:

1. A temp gun.
2. A small fuzzy mouse (or x-small)
3. Another hide.

When i get home i'm going to put in the new hide (hopefully something new won't stress her out more) then i'm going to try out the temp gun and then i'm going to take out the piece of slate rock and take a pic of her enclosure.

Now the big branch she has that's in her tank is pretty big, it actually goes from one side of the tank about 3/4 of the way across to the other side. To big? Should i remove that also? Do they need something to climb on?

thanks for all your help !

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Good on the temp gun. If they sell at a pet store, you will overpay. Get at home depot, lowes, or amazon.

A small fuzzy is too small, and please wait a little while before offering again. Again, https://ball-pythons.net/forums/show...=feeding+chart, second post. Small mouse 12-17G is better.

Please get at a least another hide.

Ball pythons are terrestrial and although they can climb, do not climb often, or particularly well. If I had to choose between a branch and another hide, I would get a hide. If you can fit both, it's fine, if you like the branch.

Also, if you are picking up a frozen mouse, you should consider just ordering online, or getting in bulk from a reptile show etc. If online, https://bigcheeserodents.com, and https://perfectprey.com are both highly recommended here. I use Big Cheese, but have hard good things about perfect prey and they sell smaller quantity packs. You only have one snake.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Maybeka

Unfortunately we don't have a reptile store close by. The nearest one is about 30 miles different direction that home.
The only one i pass on my way home is a petsmart or a petco.

I will add thermostat to my list.

Hopefully petsmart has one since they are the ones who originally told him to never use an underground heater. The girl was supposedly an expert snake person since she herself has ball pythons at home...so she says.

So, you think she may be a Cypress? We've had several guesses on what she looks like. Most people just say she looks like a pretty colored normal. Someone else said she looked like a Normal colored Spotnose?

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Best bet for a thermostat is to ask on here, or read which ones are best from previous posts. I use Boaphile redundant thermostats, but those will be overkill like crazy for what you are doing (they support 10-20 devices on each one). Then buy from a reptile shop online or in person, but not petsmart, etc.

You will want one to run at least two devices - you lamp/CHE, and the UTH, depending how warm your room/house temp is and what the temps actually are with the temp gun. If you need more down the road, you might want to get one that runs more.

Hmmm, expert snake person? Could be, but it doesn't seem like she pointed you in the right direction cage or food wise. Also, UTH should never be used, WITHOUT REGULATION/A THERMOSTAT, so she was half right.

I understand feeling badly for the animal and getting it at petsmart, a lot of people do that, and it often works out okay. To many seasoned reptile keepers, it's not worth the risk, not knowing the lineage, and it just perpetuates big chains pushing reptiles and improperly caring for them. Believe me, they will just put another poor BP in there.

As you said, nothing to do now except give this little one a good home, which you are working on.

Hi! I stopped and got another hide and put it on the cool side.
I purchased a thermostat and already plugged it in.
It seems to be working as it has gone on and off several times.
I also purchased a temp gun.

Seems to me (and this is just a guess) that it may have actually been to hot on the hot side and that's why she was going to the cold side all the time. I'm only thinking that because of how its going on and off right now where before it was a constant on. I could be wrong.

I also took the piece of slate rock out because it was really hot to the touch. The gun said it was 100!!

I will post pics tomorrow of the whole enclosure. Anything I missed?

Thank you all again!

I had a feeling that was the issue and so glad you took the advice and went to get stuff !!

no UTH??

point the temp gun at your heat lamp. Mine reads 120-130 sometimes.

They get soooo hot. Hence the need for therms and proper ways to test

my heat lamp is always on and off. My landlords must think I’m running a red light brothel!!

OMG a brothel... Funny!

UTH is going to have to wait til the weekend. My son is going to build a stand for the enclosure
Right now it's on the floor and I dont think a UTH would be good on the carpet.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Maybeka

Hi! I stopped and got another hide and put it on the cool side.
I purchased a thermostat and already plugged it in.
It seems to be working as it has gone on and off several times.
I also purchased a temp gun.

Seems to me (and this is just a guess) that it may have actually been to hot on the hot side and that's why she was going to the cold side all the time. I'm only thinking that because of how its going on and off right now where before it was a constant on. I could be wrong.

I also took the piece of slate rock out because it was really hot to the touch. The gun said it was 100!!

I will post pics tomorrow of the whole enclosure. Anything I missed?

Thank you all again!

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100f. Yeah, way too hot. Aim for 88-90f (90f tops) on the hot side.

How did you place the thermostat probe?

Good to get the temps down for safety as well as comfort.

You are doing well. Good work.

I would not put a UTH and tank on carpet.

it's set at 88.

He put the probe right next to her hide down low by the bedding.
Although right now (its 7 pm here) she is out and on the cool side.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Maybeka

it's set at 88.

He put the probe right next to her hide down low by the bedding.
Although right now (its 7 pm here) she is out and on the cool side.

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Keep checking often with the temp gun until stable, and then regularly after that.

I wouldn't put the probe too low to the ground (she might poop or pee on it, etc. giving you a false reading). You can always adjust as needed. For example, the thermostat might read 88F with the probe halfway down the tank, but it's actually 92F on the ground.

You can slowly adjust up or down once the probe(s) is in a permanent spot.

It may take her a while to begin thermoregulating properly once the temps are where they should be.

She may still think it's too hot on the hot side and be comfortable on the cool side. Additionally, if cool side temps are proper (80F or so), she can comfortably stay there and may not go to the hot side unless she needs to (mostly to digest).

Is it normal for her to be on the cool side? When the red heat lamp goes off its dark (not for long) ...no day lamp on so I would think she would come out and move around but she is just curled up under the branch.

We truly do appreciate all of your help.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Maybeka

Is it normal for her to be on the cool side? When the red heat lamp goes off its dark (not for long) ...no day lamp on so I would think she would come out and move around but she is just curled up under the branch.

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Yes, fine to be on cool side if proper temps. See above post.

My BP usually stays on the cool side (80-82F) or near the warm side (84-85F) unless digesting. Occasionally, she goes to the hot side (88-89F), but not too often, and more after eating.

I missed the red heat lamp. I actually learned recently that red lights are like daylight to snakes - still bright. Marketing ploy I guess. I would switch to a Ceramic Heat Emitter (CHE) of the same wattage, if this wattage is working.

Room light during the day is fine and darkness at night is what they prefer and feel more comfortable in.

Ok well never mind that... Just went in to check and she's out and about..not curled up on the cool side anymore.. She had her head in the water dish when I went in. Now She's cruising.

Ya know...I never liked snakes but just in a week this little thing has certainly grabbed my heartstrings.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Maybeka

We truly do appreciate all of your help.

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Our pleasure. Thank you for listening and doing what's best for the animal. Both the snake, and you and your son, will have a much better experience.

Many people either do not believe our experience/knowledge, do not want to do the work or spend the money, think they know better, or just like to argue :).

Keep up the good work and we will help as much as we can.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Maybeka

Ok well never mind that... Just went in to check and she's out and about..not curled up on the cool side anymore.. She had her head in the water dish when I went in. Now She's cruising.

Ya know...I never liked snakes but just in a week this little thing has certainly grabbed my heartstrings.

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Nice!

Yeah, some people do not get it, but reptiles can be family too. I am glad you are coming around.

It can be very gratifying to create and maintain a proper environment for them and see them thrive. Also (speaking as a past fish keeper and breeder), unlike some display animals, like fish, they can be pretty interactive. Once she settles in and eats for you a few times, you can start handling her more. Once you start interacting, she will really tug on that heart.

It's really fun to watch them grow and mature too. Behira (my BCI) is my only juvenile/growing animal. All my other babies are all grown up! That's fine though. Many, many, years to enjoy them as adults too. However, I will always reminisce about when they were so tiny!

We are not new to critters that's for sure. My sons 10th bday present was 2 baby sulcata tortoises. That's what he wanted. They are now both 13 yrs old an over 100 lbs each.
Another bday gift he wanted was his bearded dragon. We used to call her his first girlfriend. Got her as a baby and she grew into a beautiful orange color with a wonderful personality.

We have horses and donkeys (I personally have 43 yrs of horse ownership) I Personally owned my first 2 horses for 31 yrs before I has to let them go due to old age related issues.

Plus we have 3 dogs 10 lbs.. 95 lbs ... And a 201 lb mastiff.

So I can say if it comes into my home its taken care of and stays for life!

Some new pictures. Hope this works. She is out and about quite often now, but she still has not eaten since 02/24 (2 days prior to us getting her).
My son has been leaving her alone and going to try to feed her again tomorrow. I will have another picture and a pic of her tank in a few min.

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...pskd37xhjs.jpg

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...psuc7kcfhr.jpg

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...pspomla4jb.jpg

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...psg4jtpizf.jpg

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...psukp32val.jpg

2 more pics.
I think the water dish is maybe to big. there is a hide one the left and another one behind the branch that you can't really see in the pic.

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...ps3a7dfhct.jpg

https://ball-pythons.net/forums/cach...ps4py9iayl.jpg