Help Please!!!

Hey Everyone, Im new so if I posted in the wrong place I am sorry...

I got my BP from a pet store and it is CB. The tank I have my BP in is a 20 long and I keep the tank in my room so there is not a lot of noise. I don’t know how old she is but she is about 3 1/2 feet long. She hisses at me when I try to touch her. The temp stay about the same, hot side is 80 and the cool side is 75. The humidity stay between 50 to 60 %. I have one heat source a 25 watt red bulb. I keep her in the same tank when I try to feed her and I offer her live mice. I usually offer her food at night time but I have tried both day and night. How would I raise the humidity? One more thing, when I got her she was dull looking and still is, it is just getting worse.

Now that I have told ya’ll all of that I have a couple of questions. 1) I have had my BP for a month now and she still wont eat. What do I do? 2) The humidity gage pretty much stays at 55 or so. What is it suppose to be on and how do I get it there? I have read a lot on BP and everything I have read all says different things!! 3) The temps on each side of the tank are not were they are suppose to be. What temps are the hot and cold side suppose to be set at? How do I get the temps right on each side? 4) How many heat sources do I need and where do I put them.

I had read so much on Ball Pythons and everybody says different things, I just don’t know what to go by and everything I have tried so far has not helped me at all. Could someone PLEASE help me. All helpful tips would be appreciated. Thanks.

What is on the lid of the glass tank?
What kind of probe are you using to measure temps?
Have you been to the vet?
Any sign of parasites (external)?
How's the p00p look?
When was the last shed?

Get the warm side up to 90ish (make sure the temp readings are accurate = DIGITAL) - dont let the cool side fall below 78 (again make sure your readings are accurate)

Increase humidity with a larger water dish and/or cover the lid with contac paper (leave corners open for air exchange)

You can do well with a single heat source on the warm end - go for UTH (BPs are nocturnal)

Try offering pre-killed laid in front of an occupied hide

Wait a week between feeding attemps.


Hope some of those can help - please let us know more and asak all you like.


CRITICAL - accurate temperature readings - so much stems from this.

There's a lot of information out there and it can be hard to sort it out. There's a lot of combined experience on this forum, including breeders and long-term keepers, so you've come to the right place.

First things first: you MUST have accurate information regarding temperature and humidity at the cage floor level. If you are using analog (dial-type) thermometers and hygrometer, they can be wrong by a very significant amount. I highly recommend you get an AcuRite digital thermometer-hygrometer combo from WalMart for about $15, or get a similar unit of a different brand from Matt at www.mgreptiles.com .

Second, your warm side needs to be 90F to 95F, not 80F. 80F is about right for your cool side temperature. Ball pythons use belly heat for digestion, so it's a really good idea to either provide an under-tank heat source (such as from a human heating pad without auto-shutoff) or provide a surface that will absorb radiant heat well (such as a large ceramic tile or clean stone) and use a ceramic heat emitter or proper wattage reptile heat bulb. You generally will only need to provide a heat source on one side of the cage in order to create a good temperature gradient.

Do you have hides in there for her? If not, you need at least one for the warm side and one for the cool side, so she doesn't have to choose between safety and thermoregulation. Once you have security, proper temps, and good humidity, chances are that she will decide to eat on her own for you.

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Originally Posted by Marla

Ball pythons use belly heat for digestion, so it's a really good idea to either provide an under-tank heat source (such as from a human heating pad without auto-shutoff) or provide a surface that will absorb radiant heat well (such as a large ceramic tile or clean stone) and use a ceramic heat emitter or proper wattage reptile heat bulb.

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Huh? I kept ball pythons in Neodesha cages for years with over head heating a newspaper on the floor. No ceramic tiles or clean stones. Just as long as temps are 82-84 on the cool side and 92-94 on the warm they do fine, doesn't matter if you use UTHs, bulbs, heat panels, etc.

You mean ball pythons use the temps around them for digestion right?

-adam

I assume so - as nocturnal creatures radiant heat sources (warm rocks/surfaces) would be their prime means of grabbin some heat, right?

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Originally Posted by Smulkin

I assume so - as nocturnal creatures radiant heat sources (warm rocks/surfaces) would be their prime means of grabbin some heat, right?

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Sure, but just because the only heat available at night when they are active is heat from below does not mean that they "NEED" belly heat to digest their food. If they could find a thermal mass at the right temp to lay next to they would as well in order to absorb heat.

Plenty of racks systems are set up with back heat and the snakes do fine. It's the warm "temperatures" that they seek, how they get them is just a matter of what's easiest for them to find.


-adam

BACK to the request for help at hand though . . . .

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Originally Posted by Smulkin

BACK to the request for help at hand though . . . .

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But of course .... ;)

-adam

Thank you Smulkin and Marla.


Do I need a digital thermometer on both sides of the tank and where do I set it? What is a hygrometer?

What is the proper wattage for the heat bulb and where do I get a reptile heat bulb?

The humidity in the tank stays about 55%, what is it suppose to be?

What can I use for the hide spots and my tank is not big enough for two hide spots and a water bowl... Sorry for all of the questions, I just want to make sure everything I do for my BP is correct so I dont end up hurting her. How can you tell if it is a boy or girl?

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Originally Posted by Adam_Wysocki

Huh? I kept ball pythons in Neodesha cages for years with over head heating a newspaper on the floor. No ceramic tiles or clean stones. Just as long as temps are 82-84 on the cool side and 92-94 on the warm they do fine, doesn't matter if you use UTHs, bulbs, heat panels, etc.

You mean ball pythons use the temps around them for digestion right?

-adam

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Adam, this is already a situation in which the temps are significantly lower than optimum. As you should be well aware, ceramic and stone retain heat a good bit longer than glass, paper, and most plastics. Without a constant source of heat from underneath, a heat-absorbing and radiating rock or tile or similar can be useful in increasing comfort and promoting healthy metabolism. Is it a necessity? No. Is it a good useful strategy? Yes. The ball python, as a cold-blooded creature, relies on its environment to provide it with the temperatures it needs.

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Originally Posted by Draculasgirl

Thank you Smulkin and Marla.


Do I need a digital thermometer on both sides of the tank and where do I set it? What is a hygrometer?

What is the proper wattage for the heat bulb and where do I get a reptile heat bulb?

The humidity in the tank stays about 55%, what is it suppose to be?

What can I use for the hide spots and my tank is not big enough for two hide spots and a water bowl... Sorry for all of the questions, I just want to make sure everything I do for my BP is correct so I dont end up hurting her. How can you tell if it is a boy or girl?

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A hygrometer is just a device for measuring humidity. If you buy the unit that many of us here have, it will measure temps on both sides and humidity at the unit placement, and one is just fine for the entire cage.

Proper wattage for the bulb depends on enclosure type and ambient (room temps), but most people in homes with central heat and air will find that it takes a 60watt-100watt bulb to get what they need. However, using light bulbs will dry out your air more than other heating methods, and you may end up having to provide a humid hide as the only way to provide adequate humidity for the snake.

Humidity should generally be 40%-60% except at shed time, when a boost to 70% or so can be useful. However, as I mentioned, the dial hygrometers are often waaaay off, and if that's what you're using, your humidity could easily truly be 35% instead of 55%.

If your tank isn't big enough for 2 hide spots and a water bowl, you need a new tank, seriously. However, I think you'll find that your nearest dollar store or WalMart will have pet food/water dishes with spaces at the ends intended to make it easier to pick them up, that make a great combo water dish and hide, and they're only $1. The snakes want hides that are snug, so you don't need some giant petstore type hide. Another good hide option is the classic clay/terracotta plant pot dish, chipped at the side with a hammer.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Marla

Adam, this is already a situation in which the temps are significantly lower than optimum. As you should be well aware, ceramic and stone retain heat a good bit longer than glass, paper, and most plastics. Without a constant source of heat from underneath, a heat-absorbing and radiating rock or tile or similar can be useful in increasing comfort and promoting healthy metabolism. Is it a necessity? No. Is it a good useful strategy? Yes. The ball python, as a cold-blooded creature, relies on its environment to provide it with the temperatures it needs.

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Marla, my issue certainly wasn't with your strategy ... I understand how someone could come to the conclusion that you have .... my issue was with your statement that ball pythons "use belly heat for digestion" .... that is simply untrue. As you know, I am a stickler for debunking myths about ball pythons and their husbandry and when I see something that is less than accurate, I feel that it should be clarified so that newer keepers don't propagate it as fact.

-adam

Hope that helps, draculasgirl - the derailing is unintentional I am sure.

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Originally Posted by Adam_Wysocki

.... my issue was with your statement that ball pythons "use belly heat for digestion"

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Ok, if it please the court, I'll rephrase.

"Ball pythons rely on external heat sources to provide a species-appropriate temperature gradient in order to perform and maintain metabolism-related functions, such as digestion and fighting infections."

That seems like an awful lot more words to say essentially the same thing. Does it have to actually touch the belly? No. Is it more likely to get the warm side hide into the right temperature range if the heat comes from underneath or the hide is or is on a heat-absorbent material such as terra cotta? Yes. Is the warm side hide temperature generally relevant to discussions of digestion and metabolism in captive ball pythons? Yes.

Go to your rooms - both of you. :P

PMs or a new thread por favor.

Just a couple more questions...

Where do I get the reptile heat bulb at?

Do I put her in another tank to feed?

She also hisses at me when i take her out of her hide box, Why?

How can I tell if she is a boy or girl?

Thanks

Hi.. I'm coming in this late, but I'll try to help too. :)

You can get heat bulbs at the pet store.. petsmart usually has them. I haven't read the whole thread, but under tank heaters are preferable because of humidity.. lamps suck it right out of the air. If you use and UTH you NEED either a thermostat or a rheostat to control temperature.

2) I feed all ten of the snakes in my care inside their tanks. Especially for a BP, who is easy to stress, it's best to leave them in their normal home. As long as you open the tank for things other than feeding time on a regular basis, the snake will not associate the lid opening with food.

3) she is scared of you. time and patience with gentle handling is the key here. Get her eating first though.

4) Have a good reptile vet probe the snake for you. There are no reliable external differences.

First my little rant....damn pet stores that sell snakes with specific needs and don't even give a person a care sheet! Drives me nuts and I feel so sorry for this poor girl trying her best.


We are new so nothing in the following is gospel, in fact I hesitated to even post in this thread but thought since we've just gotten done a week of checking stores for stuff maybe it might help somewhat. Hit Wal-mart, Home Depot or Lowe's -- we've been pricing stuff for our new snake and you can get pretty much everything you'll need for around $75.00 or less.

Here's my own short list if it helps

1) Rubbermaid or Sterlite tub....approx. 36 x 24 x 6...with clipped down lid included (a must snakes escape easy)...should be big enough for your snake, two hides and a water dish....we've been advised to get a tub with lots of floor space but not so much height....room for hides and easier to keep temps and humidity under control...less than $15.00 (not sure how escape proof the clips are so ask the experts here about that)

2) Soldering iron to make holes in tub for air exchange....about $11.00 (or borrow one even better - ask folks here for help on how many holes and placement and do hole melting outside due to fumes)

3) We've been told to start a new snake on either newspaper (free) or paper towels (cheap) to see mites, poop, etc. easier than other bedding...later we will use cypress bedding....Lowe's or Home Depot....big bag around $5.00

4) Heating pad for under tank heating (some like that some don't but I'm thinking cost effective, and easy to find)....without autoshut off option....around $15.00 (Dunlap I think is the brand Walmart sells)...ask for advice here about how to place heating pad to get warm/cool side right

5) Thermometer/hygrometer....$15.00 at Walmart (some Walmarts don't stock this we've found but if they do it's in outside thermometer section...just ask Customer Service)

5) Hides/water bowl....all these stores have great gardening sections with dirth cheap terracotta pots with bases....read threads here about this as far as how to make a holes properly and disinfecting them first...but we priced out two hides made from the biggest bases (the bit that holds the water overflow) at about $10.00 or so for both...low heavy bowl for water so snake can't shove it over...look in gardening or pets area for something...should be less than $5.00

We've found that pet store stuff is way over-priced mostly and the hides they sell are so flimsy they are mostly worthless for a snake.

The above list is NOT by any means perfect or complete or expert. The experienced breeders/owners here are you're best resource. Just hope it helps you if you need to get some things to make life easier for you and the snake (and save you time and cash running around to locate stuff). It adds up to less than $75.00 for all of it, much less of course if you just buy a few things to make your current enclosure work better.

Best of luck!

Thank you to everyone that has offered me help. I will try everything that I was told. If anybody else has any useful tips that could help me, please keep them coming. All is appreciated...:)

I am also a new bp owner, have owned corn snakes before so I have a few helpful hints for you. First, the best way I find to raise humitity is to put a warm wet towel on the top of the tank screen, only on about half of the screen so to leave proper ventilation. Second, the best heat source for me has been the under tank heat pad. Do not use a heat rock in the tank with a bp, they can burn themselves on it. I have only had my bp for 2 weeks and she has not ate yet either, but I have been told not to worry. She just shed today, so I am figuring that to be why she has not eaten. You mentioned that you bp is dull, sounds like she is going to shed as well. Snakes will get dull and then for a day or two or three they will clear up again, then shed their skin. Feel free to email me at dagenwilhelm@sbcglobal.net anytime. I agree about everything you read on these guys is contradicting. Hope this helps.

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a warm wet towel on the top of the tank

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just be warned - wet textiles and sponges around the heat your tank will hold can make for ripe fungus/bacterial growth - at least providing a medium. We struck that from the caresheet for that reason.

Not to be further contradicting . . .

Yes there's a ton of info and it does sometimes seem contradictory, even worse when you're new to owning a ball python and probably way stressed out with worry. Just a suggestion but how about taking a few moments, deep breath and write a list to clarify things....prioritize just what your new BP needs immediately and what can wait a bit. If I was in your shoes this would be my list (and again, I'm no expert please remember) just a person that figures you are swamped with info about now

1) temps....read what the experienced people here say....ball pythons have pretty specific needs so that would be my number one concern

2) humidity...same thing...same advice...especially if this ball python might be ready to shed

3) water so the snake can't dehydrate....I don't know about snakes but most every other living thing can go without food for periods of time but won't go long without a consistent source of clean water

4) hides....everything we've read and been told...this is very important to keep your snake stress free...you said "hide box"....so I'm wondering if you kind of have to pull her out of a box of some sort...or do you just lift the hide off her?

5) peace and quiet....if the snake is stressed, ready to shed, etc. it probably feels like utter crapola....I'd hiss too (usually do before I've had my morning coffee)...take the advice given by the folks here about minimal handling and a quiet environment until the snake is eating, shedding and pooping as it should

6) eating....I know it seems funny to leave that till last but with all the advice we been given...and as long as the snake is not losing weight fast...it seems a snake that hasn't got the first 5...just isn't as likely to show a willingness to take food

7) vet visit....as long as the snake isn't obviously sick and hopefully the pet store sold you a reasonably healthy animal this doesn't have to be #1 but I'd sure make it a soon as you can thing

Okay you experienced folks, did this priority list make sense or was I way off base. I really hesitate to post "advice" when I'm totally inexperienced....but I can just imagine how over whelming this is for this new owner and wanted to help "cut to the chase" so to speak.

Btw, I'll have to read back in the thread but is this a captive born snake or not?

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Originally Posted by frankykeno

Okay you experienced folks, did this priority list make sense or was I way off base. I really hesitate to post "advice" when I'm totally inexperienced....but I can just imagine how over whelming this is for this new owner and wanted to help "cut to the chase" so to speak.

Btw, I'll have to read back in the thread but is this a captive born snake or not?

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Excellent list, in my book. :)

It is Captive Born so I was told... Thanks again for all of the help..

Hey, Can I just use the fake leaves at Walmart to put in the tank with my BP or is there a certain kind that I need to use. Where do I a branch to put in the tank for him to crawl on. Can I use one out of my yard?


Do I have to have a UV light? The lady at the pet store told me I had to have one for my BP, so I bought one for $40.00...

If I use the light on top of the cage 24/7 does the bulb have to be red or black. I was told that snakes cant see red, black or purple.

Thanks..

heh. BPs dont need UV light. dont listen to petstores. if you get a branch to crawl on for him outta your yard i would bake it in the oven, others will be able to tell you more. fake vines from walmart would be fine, maybe rinse them down to remove any dust on them if their not packaged. always use bulbs made for reptiles. dont use cheap dollar store black lights. i use red reptile bulbs with no problem, except of course humidity.

Ok, where do I get a red reptile bulb from. Where can I get a branch from, besides in my yard?

you can get a branch from that pet store when you take the UV lamp back :P Any place you get the branch from you should still bake it... you have no idea what you may be bringing home.

It does not specifically have to be a red bulb....walmart carries Reptile Rays bulbs by GE they are a kind of black light...they work pretty good...or check a pet store...or order one online.

LOL, your funny..:P Ok, what temp do I bake the branch at and for how long?


The bulbs at walmart, you said they are black (snakes cant see that right). Will it be alright to leave it on 24/7. It wont stress out the snake?

Yes they are ok to leave on 24/7....just make sure you get the light that is specifically for Reptiles (it will be by all the regular light bulbs at Walmart). When I used lights, those were the lights that I used all the time and everything was fine.

Bake the branch at 300 deg. for an hour or so and you should be good.

Thank you!!!

Here are some pictures of my baby... I took them today, he actually came out of his hide box. Hope the pictures look alright.


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v232/sabty/Zues1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v232/sabty/Zues2.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v232/sabty/Zues3.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v232/sabty/Zues4.jpg

Nice snake! Sounds like some good advice everyone's been giving you. It's the same stuff that I've been hearing as well. It does sound like it's about to shed since it's skin is dull. Try raising the humidity to 70% by slightly misting it with a spray bottle. I usually just mist the glass and it will evaporate into the air (especially with the infrared lamp as your heat source... this makes water evaporate much quicker than say, an under tank heater). This way, it won't dampen the surface of any cage furniture or the substrate potentially creating a breeding ground for bacteria. Misting the walls of the tank I would assume would be less of a breeding ground because all there would be is water, and glass (nothing for bacteria to multiply on). Also, I would provide a humid hide box for it. What I did for that was got an old margerine tub, and cut a semi-circle out of the lip... put some damp paper towels in it (NOT WET!), put the lid back on and placed that in the tank with lid down. My BP is smaller so that size worked for her, but you could try one of those gallon ice cream tubs that you can buy in the freezer section (but you'd have to eat the ice cream first... oh the pangs of owning a snake :P ) that might fit your snake better. Umm... I think that's it for now. :D

Just curious if you were able to get the temps up?

Thanks for the advice, I will try that. I have had him for about month maybe a month and a half and he has been dull (expeacially on the top of his head) since I have got him.


I am going to Walmart tomorrow to get one of them combo thermometers that everyone has been telling me about and a reptile bulb. I need to get a higher wattage bulb to bring the temps up where they are suppose to be.

My husband whats to build me a cage for my BP out of plywood, how would I go about heating that and what would I use for something that big?

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Originally Posted by tigerlily

Just curious if you were able to get the temps up?

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I got the UTH to work finally and it has brought the heat up a little bit but I have to get a higher wattage bulb. Zues shocked me today, he came out of his hide spot for an hour or better. I have never seen him do that before. Weird Huh!!! :)

Amazing what a change in temp can do. :P

Do you have the UTH on a dimmer or thermostat? Just make sure that it isn't getting too hot. That may have been why he came out. Just a thought.

No, I dont have it on a dimmer or anything. I thought thats why he may have come out also. I wasn't sure.

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Originally Posted by Draculasgirl

No, I dont have it on a dimmer or anything. I thought thats why he may have come out also. I wasn't sure.

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Yeah... someone made a good point on here (I think it might have been Adam). If you put your hand on the furniture or the substrate in the hot end of the tank, and it feels a bit warm, it could be hotter than you think. Keep in mind our internal body temp is 98.6... anything above that will feel warm. Granted the temp in extremities such as our fingers will be cooler than our core temp... say maybe 90'ish... Rule of thumb I go by, is if it feels like it could be too hot, it probably is... and the snake isn't going to know that it's internals are being cooked. This is one reason why it's so important to have accurate readings on temps... and this is where a temp gun comes in reallllllllll handy. www.tempgun.com

I made the mistake of buying fake plants from the petstore, and found them for MUCH cheaper at Wal-Mart. I got one of those Jungle Vines from the pet store and wrapped it in this 6' leaved garland type stuff, looks awesome and Olie loves to climb around on it. Take your time acquiring the decorative stuff, you'll find soooo much you want to make your setup look better, but it can get really expensive! It's best to tackle it in chunks, pick up one thing with every paycheck or whatever. :)

Thanks for the tips. I would like to have a nice setup for Zues, but the only place I have been looking for stuff is at the pet store and like you said the cost is high. I did not know that Walmart carried stuff like that. Where in Walmart do I look?


My husband whats to build me a cage for my BP out of plywood, how would I go about heating that and what would I use for something that big?

Sounds like your snake is simply one of those BPs who are pretty skittish. I have one of my own that's like that. He was a rescue case a few months ago. I tried feeding him a live mouse (what he had been eating in his prior home) a few weeks after getting him, and he struck defensively, but would not eat.
So I did this: I simply left him alone for about a month, in his cage. I would change his water every few days, but that's it. I gave him a secure hide, something he never had in his other home. I opted to put him in a rubbermaid container; less visible through the sides of it, so less stress for him.
Finally a few days ago I tried putting in a live, small rat and guess what, he took it! I think that like mine, your snake is still settling in and treating everything that's a stimulus, as a threat. I would give him a nice long stretch of time with no handling and little interruption before trying again; this worked for me.

I know it is tough, especially when you have a new pet you're dying to handle, but it really works. I had another BP that was the same way, and he finally ate after weeks of privacy. Nice tight hidedspots do a world of good too, as do proper temps and humidity as described in this site's caresheet section.
Plexiglass works great to put over your screen lid, to retain humidity for shed times. I actually use real glass sheets though, becuz they don't bend, but they are pretty dangerous if you have kids or pets running around.

About your idea to make a plywood cage. I guess my opinion is, you should have a glass bottom so that a heating device under the cage would work. You could not heat through wood like that safely. Plywood has to be sealed with something (polyurethane?) to make it waterproof. I am sure there are people on here who have info about this.

Thanks for the advise, I will try that. I just got the temps in the cage pretty much up to normal today. (Well maybe not normal because I use a dial thermometer, but will be getting a digital tonight). I still have to replace the hide box I have for him right now and I need to get a hide for the cool side.

I highly recommend caging from animal plastics. It pretty much takes all of the trial and error work out of your care for the snake. They retain heat very well, hold humidity rediculously well, and are virtually escape-proof. This will be much easier than building a custom enclosure.

www.animalplastics.com

The Terrestrial T3 model will be perfect for you bp for life. They are dark, warm, and cozy. I've got two set up like this for my duo of bps:

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...c/f4ac6468.jpg
**The only reason that there is a lamp on the top cage is because I only had one adapter plug for the thermostat. I now have them both running belly heat 24/7.

I used to have your current setup. A 20 Long with a 50w night bulb will work w/a room temp of ~70 degrees. Pretty simple for a juvi bp. Keeping humidity is kind of a pain tho.......

I went ans looked at them enclosures and they are expensive...:O I got the digital combo thermometer last night. I checked the temps this morning and the hot side is 85 and the cool side is 70. I could not find the reptile heat bulb at walmart so I got a black light that is a 60 watt. Oh yeah, the humididty was 35% :worry:.

just thought i'd add something quick here- i don't know if you're having this problem, but i had gotten a dunlap heating pad from wal-mart a few months ago. the regular, basic model. it wasn't marked on the box as auto-shutoff, but it would cut off after a couple of hours. i think the light on the lo-med-hi switch even stayed on. got another one at target, though, that won't shut itself off. a few dollars cheaper too.

oh, and target has really good prices on rubbermaids too, if anyone cares.

I have one of them UTH that stick to the bottom of the tank. I got it at the pet store, it was kinds expensive, $24.


I got that digital theremometer last Friday and during the day the temps stay where they are suppose to be. Zues even comes out during the day to wrap his self around the water. But at night time the temps fall way down. How do I control that?

I got a dog water bowl for a water/hide for him and he does not go in it he just wraps his self around.

This might sound kind of weird but what does snake poop look like because I think he finally went to the bathroom.

https://ball-pythons.net/gallery/fil...hedandpoop.jpg
Thats a turd on the bottom. The brown part is poop and the white parts are urates (snake urine, they don't "pee" like us because they are way better at conserving body fluid). Feces and urates generally are expelled together, but I've noticed that my bps drop urates alone at some times, usually soon after a large meal.

and about your night temps....are you turning your heat pad off at night or does your house get very cold?

Proper heating for a bp should be applied 24/7.

Myopia, I know what you mean about the tubs at Target. They are well priced. I have a hude tub, probably 30x15x12(estimating) that Amani is in, made by Iris, very see-through, locking top, and cost me about $15. The bottom is flat too(no ridges/ bumps), which makes my cleaning job much easier.

DraculasGirl, you may even need two heating pads underneath the enclosure, set at different temps, to maintain proper temperatures throughout the night and daytime. Just like Elevate said, the heating pad can stay on 24/7, and if you need supplemental heating to get ambient temps up, a CHE(ceramic heat emitter) might be a better option, as it doesn't emit any light. You can even insulate the tank with some foamboard. You can find huge sheets of it at Home Depot/Lowe's. It is used to insulate houses. It has foam on one side and silver, reflective material on the other. You can cut it in rectangular pieces and tape them to the sides and back of the tank. The foam is white, so if you don't like the look of white, you can get some shelf liner(the patterned sticky paper that you cover the inside of cabinets with) and cover the insulation with it.

I know, I ramble... :) Are you covering the screen lid with anything? Heat escapes very well out of the screen. You may want to cover the entire screen part with some shelf liner/Glad Press N' Seal/Clingwrap and tape, cut triangles at each corner, and cut a hole 1" bigger than the diameter of your lamp. So if your lamp is 6" across, then cut a 7" wide hole. That will give the lamp 1/2" of room from the shelf liner/plastic wrap. No setting the house on fire :-D. No tape on the inside of the enclosure though, alot of accidents happen with tape.

Hope you get everything working correctly. Let us know how it goes.