New baby BP won't eat

I put a small mouse in her cage and she won't eat it):

Thawed mouse not live lol

I feel your pain. I don't know what I was thinking last weekend when I bought a hatchling, I thought I was done with this for a while! Now I have his new girl who has only had 2 meals since she was born on November 21st. Her last meal with the breeder was 13 days ago so I'm not too worried yet but I would really be happier if she ate soon.

1. How long ago did you get the snake? You want to give it at least a full week without handling or feeding to let it get settled in. Don't try to feed it until a full week has passed.

2. How did you prepare the f/t mouse and how large was it? (You want to make sure it's fully warmed and appealing to the snake)

3. What are conditions like in the tank? Sometimes snakes won't eat if their husbandry is wrong. I know you were asking a lot of questions on the forum this week - were you able to get things set up properly before you purchased your snake?

I have a box for her to hide in(which she always does) Ive held her ever since I got her, she is very scared. Any fast movement she jumps pretty quick , um I have a heater under tank and a light heater(light stays on 8 hours a day) she almost seems as if she's scared of the mouse . It was heated and is a adult mouse

And I got her about 3 days ago, a 20 gal tank

What was she eating before you got it?
What is the temperature above the UTH?
What are you using to regulate the UTH?

Not regulating the temperature

- - - Updated - - -

She was eating frozen rat fuzzys

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Originally Posted by Vincentleo

Not regulating the temperature

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Fix your husbandry first and UNPLUG your UTH till you can properly control it.

I'm a little concerned you haven't listened to any of the answers we've given you in previous posts. Did you read the caresheet? Did you consider following the instructions in the Tank Set-up Tutorial? These are both tried-and-true information sources.

As mentioned before, your snake isn't eating because A) you're handling her too much and too soon after buying her, and/or B) her conditions are incorrect. Please read the above resources and fix your BP's home so she can be happy, healthy, and hungry!

Edit: By the way, rats are the recommended food source for BPs. Frozen rats are much easier to feed in the long run. If your snake was eating frozen rats before, I'd recommend you keep her on frozen rats now. Not to mention it's the food she's familiar with!

What is the uth?

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Originally Posted by Vincentleo

What is the uth?

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UTH = Under Tank Heater

An unregulated UTH is too hot for a ball python and will cause burns, which is why it was recommended that you unplug yours.

But it has no control on it, how could I possibly change it if it's too hot?

http://ball-pythons.net/forums/webki...840b/imagejpeg

That's what a thermostat is for. A thermometer measures temperatures, and a thermostat (like this) regulates the temperature of devices. I'll be honest at the risk of sounding rude (which is not my intention): At this point it's clear you've done very little reading of the recommended resources, and I'm starting to wonder if you're not intentionally trolling. You've been given all the resources you need to be a responsible and informed BP owner. I'll leave it up to others if they'd like to spend the time giving you answers to questions that have already been answered elsewhere.

Not trolling at all just trying to make sure she's happy, I tried to post a picture, the guy at store said " put heater under one time with light on same side, a hide on both sides and make sure tank is always moisturized and water bowl on cool side. He never told me any of the stuff yall are saying so I'm just suprised that's all , not trying to sound like I'm trolling

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Originally Posted by Vincentleo

Not trolling at all just trying to make sure she's happy, I tried to post a picture, the guy at store said " put heater under one time with light on same side, a hide on both sides and make sure tank is always moisturized and water bowl on cool side. He never told me any of the stuff yall are saying so I'm just suprised that's all , not trying to sound like I'm trolling

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He was actually pretty accurate in his advice. He just missed the most important piece of equipment - a thermostat that will save your snake from getting burned.

He said " i own about 30 snakes" and he told me if I have it in a 20 gal with the light on 8 hours a day and heat pad there's no point in the thermostat because it will be the right temperature . My question to you is, what in the world would I do if I got the thermostat and it says the wrong temperature ?

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Originally Posted by Vincentleo

He said " i own about 30 snakes" and he told me if I have it in a 20 gal with the light on 8 hours a day and heat pad there's no point in the thermostat because it will be the right temperature . My question to you is, what in the world would I do if I got the thermostat and it says the wrong temperature ?

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You don't seem to understand the difference between a thermostat and a thermometer. A thermostat is something you plug your heat pad into that controls the temperature of the heat pad. A thermometer is something that reads the temperature, but has no control.

Oh okay cool thanks !!

I wonder if any heating pad can have a therma stat hooked up to it . The brand is "zoo med"

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Originally Posted by Vincentleo

I wonder if any heating pad can have a therma stat hooked up to it . The brand is "zoo med"

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Yes.

Edit: By the way, rats are the recommended food source for BPs. Frozen rats are much easier to feed in the long run. If your snake was eating frozen rats before, I'd recommend you keep her on frozen rats now. Not to mention it's the food she's familiar with![/QUOTE]


Just curious, recommended by whom? There was just a thread on here about overfeeding, did you get a chance to read it? No offense intended.

What about over feeding ?

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Originally Posted by thejennabird

Edit: By the way, rats are the recommended food source for BPs. Frozen rats are much easier to feed in the long run. If your snake was eating frozen rats before, I'd recommend you keep her on frozen rats now. Not to mention it's the food she's familiar with!

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The recommended food source is whatever they will eat.

Just a key fact about zoomed UTH.. thermostat is a must.. i tested my 20g tank that is empty now and the temp of the UTH was at 115 degrees... thats why a thermostat is needed

I tested 7 zoo med under tank heating pads, average output was 113.8. That's definitely a little too toasty. Just to clarify, way to hot! Get some sort of control or cook your snake.

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h1...psp2koldrd.jpg

Any heat source that your animal can come into direct contact with should be regulated.

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Originally Posted by PitOnTheProwl

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h1...psp2koldrd.jpg

Any heat source that your animal can come into direct contact with should be regulated.

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THAT'S where my crayons went!!! :rage: :gj:

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Originally Posted by Sonny1318

Just curious, recommended by whom? There was just a thread on here about overfeeding, did you get a chance to read it? No offense intended.

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Originally Posted by PitOnTheProwl

The recommended food source is whatever they will eat.

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Yup, my bad. In the future I'll attempt to word it better. Feeding one rat is frequently more economical and simpler than multiple mice.I personally would still recommend frozen rats to OP because that's what the snake was eating previously and is familiar with. However, if mice are easier for OP and the snake will eat them, no issues. How's that sound instead? I missed the overfeeding thread, can someone link me to it?

http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...r-Ball-Pythons

Maybe it is uncomfortable. Do you have a hide in the cage, what is the tempature/humidity. Also do you open the cage alot or is the cage in a place where people walk past it alot.

I didn't see the full question so sorry if you said/answer all these things already.

Also my snakes won't eat thawed rats so maybe that could be a problem try live but supervise it

Ok so I got the pad to about 91 degrees, the cold side is like 69 for some reason.. Humidity is 65..., and I cant find a light dimer at stores so I haven't been usin it I have a infrared though I just think it might be too hot

And she just is really jumpy, you barely move or anything and she throws her head like she's spooked . Not sure why that is...

69 is a bit cold for ambient temp.. You can find a dimmer switch for the heat light from a hardware store or pet stores do sell them with dimmer switch on them already.. Or space heater to heat the room he/she is in.

Lol the guy at the pet store told me yall are wrong and light dimmer will melt the cord , and to change light bulb voltage if it's too hot

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Originally Posted by Vincentleo

Lol the guy at the pet store told me yall are wrong and light dimmer will melt the cord , and to change light bulb voltage if it's too hot

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Wattage is what lighting goes by and IF believed the guy at the pet store you wouldnt be back here.;)

If dimmer switches melted power cords they wouldn't sell them... Just wow... And the dimmer switch really has nothing to do with the cord it will have 120v av going threw the cord up to the dimmer switch if anything would heat up a little it would be the switch itself

Hahahah okay, so the hot side of cage is 70 and cold side 69, heater on 88, infra red light is on without dimmer (should I turn off)?

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Originally Posted by PitOnTheProwl

Wattage is what lighting goes by and IF believed the guy at the pet store you wouldnt be back here.;)

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No don't use a dimmer switch buy this extra 30 bulb form my store... I think a dimmer is the best idea to regulate heat because when using a thermostat alone if it gets cold it turn on full blast till the temp get hot then shut back off. so it's full on or full off it doesn't hold the temp in one spot, it gets hot cold hot cold and the keeps an average temp but not to the degree and I know everyone loves their temp gun but unless it's a high dollar model the temp very wildly. Read review of many they are used in a number of industries and I think your best bet to be sure is an I the ear or across the forhead baby thermometer cheap and very accurate just touch it it the surface.

I've checket at Home Depot and multiple pet stores.. Can't find it. But my cage is too cold and I don't wanna buy a expensive heater

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Originally Posted by Joe balls

No don't use a dimmer switch buy this extra 30 bulb form my store... I think a dimmer is the best idea to regulate heat because when using a thermostat alone if it gets cold it turn on full blast till the temp get hot then shut back off. so it's full on or full off it doesn't hold the temp in one spot, it gets hot cold hot cold and the keeps an average temp but not to the degree and I know everyone loves their temp gun but unless it's a high dollar model the temp very wildly.

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Not if it's a good quality proportional thermostat. Also, "high dollar" is relative (seriously - is ~$130 too much to spend to avoid burning your pet) - putting a price tag on the safety of your animals is something I don't recommend doing. ;)

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Originally Posted by Vincentleo

And she just is really jumpy, you barely move or anything and she throws her head like she's spooked . Not sure why that is...

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Because she's stressed out and doesn't feel safe. Make sure the tank is filled up with decor so it feels smaller and that she has a hide on each side to go into. If you're constantly in the room maybe even block off every side with some paper to enclose it even more and give her some time to relax.

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Originally Posted by Vincentleo

I've checket at Home Depot and multiple pet stores.. Can't find it. But my cage is too cold and I don't wanna buy a expensive heater

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Did you even ask them if they had any kind of dimmer?

Home depot lamp dimmer.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Lutron-Cr...-100001525-_-N

Decent Digital Thermostat
http://www.amazon.com/Hydrofarm-MTPR...sin=B000NZZG3S

You're 18 according to your profile and it's quite distressing to read how you are responding to advice on what you should do. If you don't care about taking care of the animal that you volunteered to be responsible for, why even bother looking for advice?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Joe balls

No don't use a dimmer switch buy this extra 30 bulb form my store... I think a dimmer is the best idea to regulate heat because when using a thermostat alone if it gets cold it turn on full blast till the temp get hot then shut back off. so it's full on or full off it doesn't hold the temp in one spot, it gets hot cold hot cold and the keeps an average temp but not to the degree and I know everyone loves their temp gun but unless it's a high dollar model the temp very wildly. Read review of many they are used in a number of industries and I think your best bet to be sure is an I the ear or across the forhead baby thermometer cheap and very accurate just touch it it the surface.

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Think you need to study all the different stats that are out there.

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Originally Posted by Vincentleo

I've checket at Home Depot and multiple pet stores.. Can't find it. But my cage is too cold and I don't wanna buy a expensive heater

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A typical radiant oil heater is a bit under $100. They work great and are generally safe so long as you aren't worried about a dog or cat knocking it over. They're especially useful if you end up getting more than one snake (it's an addiction!). I'd have a really hard time keeping all my herps at the right temp without one.

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Originally Posted by Eric Alan

Not if it's a good quality proportional thermostat. Also, "high dollar" is relative (seriously - is ~$130 too much to spend to avoid burning your pet) - putting a price tag on the safety of your animals is something I don't recommend doing. ;)

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I believe the go to model I've seen in people's videos can be had at harbor freight for around $35 that's what I meant by high dollar in comparison to 130 for one that works properly
and I was just saying that baby thermometers are something I have found and maybe not everyone has a baby and has thought of this inexpencive but very acurate alteritave

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Originally Posted by Sonny1318

Edit: By the way, rats are the recommended food source for BPs. Frozen rats are much easier to feed in the long run. If your snake was eating frozen rats before, I'd recommend you keep her on frozen rats now. Not to mention it's the food she's familiar with!

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[/QUOTE]
Just curious, recommended by whom? There was just a thread on here about overfeeding, did you get a chance to read it? No offense intended.[/QUOTE]


Well if the snake is already eating rats, it's best to stay the course if for no other reason as a BP that refuses rats and only takes mice is irritating and more expensive to feed

You don't need to post then go away lol, I'm trying to help her obviosily or else I woudonr be asking so many questions . I went out and bought the 60$ thermostat for her and put paper all around her cage and bought 2 thermometers and a humidity reader . Your dumb for saying I don't care

This is not my first snake or problem eater for that matter but it is my first Ball Python baby...

We got our baby spider new years day and she still hasn't eaten. The breeder said she was eating F/T rat pinkies no problem. She has a very comfy set up with two hides and lots of vines. Her glass tank has aquarium matting around the outside to give her more secure privacy. She has gradient UTH heat cord with temps during the day are 80 and 90 with her night temps at 75 and 85. We check regular with a thermostat gun and a humidity level of about 75 with a shallow dish water source and daily misting. She has a pillow case for substrate because the breeder said not to use substrate yet and it freaks me out using newspaper because of the ink. So I don't think set up is the issue.:confusd:

When she is out of her tank she is an active snake and not lethargic but she acts like her head is too heavy. In her tank she balls up on top of her hide. She has absolutely no interest in eating and shys away from food offered she doesn't even flick her tongue at it. We have tried everything but feed live. We tried braining it and actually got the goo on her mouth and still no reaction. I finally broke down and assist fed her yesterday. Though it was all good once I got it in her mouth she continued to take it down but then this evening i noticed that she regurgitated it.:( :O :(

So now I am at a loss I have no idea what to do with her. :please::please::please::please: