My bee keep on regurgitating the rat.

Im really worried right now, my male bee keeps on regurgitating the rats. First i gave him a big meal, after few days he regurgitate it. 2nd i gave him a small meal, he still regurgitate it after a few days. Im so worried because his dropping weight so fast. His body is like hollow. Im bringing him to a vet tomorrow morning. Have you experienced this?

Need a lot more information in order to really help.

Here's a list of questions that would help us to help you:
http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...t-Questionaire

:)

1. How long have you had your ball python?

More than a year.




2. How old (or how big) is your snake?

More or less 2ft





3. Does it eat on a regular schedule?



I give him 1 juvie rat for 2 weeks



4. How long since its last meal?



3days



5. What type/size prey is being offered?

Any size, from adult to juvie





6. How often do you offer food?



Depends on the availability of rats



7. What type and size of enclosure does it live in?



Plastic bin



8. What are you using as substrate? If it has depth, how deep is it?



Newspaper



9. What type of heating do you use?



None



10. Do you use a thermostat to control temperatures?

No





11. What do you use to measure/monitor temperatures?



None



12. What are the surface and ambient temperatures in the enclosure?







13. What is the average humidity level?







14. How many and what type of hides does the snake have?



None



15. Is water readily available at all times?



Yes



16. Does the snake live alone or does it share the enclosure with anything else?



Alone



17. How often and for how long is the snake typically handled?


Once or twice in 2 weeks



18. Does the snake have any medical history (old injuries or illnesses)?

No





19. Do you have any other reptiles? Have you brought in any new reptiles recently?

Yes and no





20. Is there anything specific or unique about your situation that we should be aware of?


Lately, when i first give him the adult rat, he grabbed it immediately then ate it, after a few days he regurgitate it the after a week i offered him a juvie rat, he ate it then regurgitate it after a few days.






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1) You need to be doing something to monitor and control temps. Since you are not, it is very likely that the temperatures are part if not all of your problem. Do you have any idea what the temps are? Even just an idea of the temps in the room? The snake needs a hotspot in the 85-90F range in order to be able to digest food. Without that, he can't digest and will regurgitate (lack of heat can also cause MANY other problems - basically nothing about the snake's metabolism can work right without it). You need a heat mat, thermostat, and digital thermometer ASAP. Like, yesterday.

2) Once you get your temps right, WAIT before trying to feed. Regurgitation is really hard on the digestive system. You need to wait two weeks before trying to feed again to allow his system to recover. Otherwise you will just create a vicious cycle.

The fact you have no heat source, no thermostat, and no way to measure humidity is a little disturbing to me. I don't mind it being kept in a plastic bin (though you never said what size), but a heat source and thermostat, as well as a humidity gage are very necessary when keeping a ball python! Your snake could be regurgitating the food because he can't warm up enough to digest it fully. A well regulated and monitored enclosure is absolutely vital when keeping a ball python. Digestion is a very energy sucking process for snakes, and they need heat to do it. My advice is to stop trying to feed him, and get his enclosure setup properly. Then let him rest for a week before offering food again. Regurgitation is not good for snakes and takes a lot out of them.

Also, you mentioned how often you feed is dependent on how available rats are? That is unacceptable in my opinion. When you run out of food you go to the store and get more for yourself, and you need to do the same thing for your snake. If your local supplier has a history of running out then you need to look to other avenues or order online. Missing your snakes meal because you couldn't find it food, or didn't want to pay for an expensive feeder at the pet store is not ok. At all.

Sorry to rant a bit, but your post really disturbed me.

Also, you need a hide! Ball pythons are very private animals and will often go off feed if they don't feel secure in their environment. I would suggest stopping by the general care forums here and do some major research on how to properly care for a ball python.

Ya no hides, no heat, no monitoring of temp, possibly incorrect prey size, and not enough time between regurgitations are all causing some obvious issues.


I like my Dubstep to go Wop Wop Wop Wop

Also, you seem very ill prepared to own that poor guy. Getting a snake should be the absolute last step in owning one! First you buy the enclosure, then you buy the substrate, then you buy the food and water bowls, then you buy the hide, then you buy the heat source, the thermostat, the humidity gage, and then you set everything up and run it for a few days to make sure the environment is stable ... AND THEN you get your snake. To me it sounds like you bought a snake, went home, dug out a plastic bin, threw some paper towels and a bowl in there, and then plopped your snake in it and expected it to thrive. That is a big problem. This is a very expensive hobby to have, and taking on the responsibility of another living creature is not to be done lightly.

Topic related question: Shouldn't the rat or prey item be well digested by the time the OP says it is getting regurgitated?

I don't have any advice that hasn't been said by others regarding husbandry. However, my understanding is with proper heat and humidity the food should be well digested within that many days.

You may want to give this snake to some one who has the correct items to take care of it. After you do some reading on this site and acquire the correct items you need then get a new one. Unfortunately YOU may be what is killing the snake.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ScraPPyCoCo

First i gave him a big meal
...
Lately, when i first give him the adult rat, he grabbed it immediately then ate it, after a few days he regurgitate it the after a week i offered him a juvie rat, he ate it then regurgitate it after a few days.

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You need to get a thermometer and check the temps asap.

If temps are too low, it's most likely the cause of the regurges. They will regurge food if they can't digest it properly.

If the temps are okay, you said, "First i gave him a big meal,"...how big is big? Too big of a meal can cause a regurge as well, although I believe this is usually done earlier than 3 days after eating...but who knows. Could be a combo of meal size and low temps.

If the temps are good and the meal sized properly, are you positive it's regurge and not something else like poop or urates? I've seen people mistake a particularly nasty poop for regurge. The smell is usually a very good indicator...did the smell of what you saw make you want to throw up immediately? Poop stinks like poop...it's stinky and it's unpleasant, but you can deal with it...regurge will make you want to vomit immediately.

You should really also correct some of the other environment issues. If you're willing and able to correct them, people on this site will be willing to help you do it.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ScraPPyCoCo

Im so worried because his dropping weight so fast. His body is like hollow.

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Two regurgitations spanning a course of less than 3 weeks should not have made a snake emaciated (I figure that is what you mean when you say hollow). When you say hollow do you mean its like his skin is to big on him? One "Juvie" rat every two weeks? Need to up the frequency on that a bit go with once a week.

As far as temps I would kill for your ambient temps, you still might need a small heater to keep the room warm enough at night (If you are using room heat aim to keep it in the mid 80s (I like 86))

Everyone... slow down.

The OP lives in the Philippines where the average temperatures and humidity are extremely similar to those found in BPs native habitat http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Climate_of_the_Philippines. Keepers in the Philippines mostly do not use nor do they need to use supplemental heat. The snakes are not one size fits all - please take some real consideration before spouting off the caresheet to someone who has kept their snake successfully for 2 years in the same conditions.

Plenty of breeders use paper substrate and no hides and no hot spot - in fact the biggest breeders out there do this. I've been to NERD many times - they use paper, no hot spot, just a water bowl. Take a deep breath and analyze the details here before jumping down his throat and telling him to rehome the snake...


OP - one thing I noticed is you mentioned feeding an adult rat. Is that the first time you fed one that big? Prior to that, was it always the small pup rat? My thoughts are that the big rat caused the regurgitation and when you fed 'a few days' later the small rat caused it again. This is because the regurgitation is very hard on their system so typically you would wait 2 weeks or so before trying to feed again. If the snake is actively losing weight you may want to bring to the vet to check if it's sick, but otherwise the trip might just stress it out more. If you have a picture it will help us understand how urgent it is. If there are no other signs of sickness I personally would just wait 2 weeks before offering a smaller than usual prey item again. These are just my 2 cents.

Ive read the comments, i understand your opinion guys but please before you suggest to give away my snakes, please think first before you judge me of how im taking care of them. Ive been taking care of ball pythons for 7years. This is the first time i experienced it. For the past seven years i dont use heaters, temp controllers etc. i only use hides when they are still small.

About the feeding, we just lately have a shortage of rats in here. Thats why i only give them that amount.


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by MrLang

Everyone... slow down.

The OP lives in the Philippines where the average temperatures and humidity are extremely similar to those found in BPs native habitat http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Climate_of_the_Philippines. Keepers in the Philippines mostly do not use nor do they need to use supplemental heat. The snakes are not one size fits all - please take some real consideration before spouting off the caresheet to someone who has kept their snake successfully for 2 years in the same conditions.

Plenty of breeders use paper substrate and no hides and no hot spot - in fact the biggest breeders out there do this. I've been to NERD many times - they use paper, no hot spot, just a water bowl. Take a deep breath and analyze the details here before jumping down his throat and telling him to rehome the snake...


OP - one thing I noticed is you mentioned feeding an adult rat. Is that the first time you fed one that big? Prior to that, was it always the small pup rat? My thoughts are that the big rat caused the regurgitation and when you fed 'a few days' later the small rat caused it again. This is because the regurgitation is very hard on their system so typically you would wait 2 weeks or so before trying to feed again. If the snake is actively losing weight you may want to bring to the vet to check if it's sick, but otherwise the trip might just stress it out more. If you have a picture it will help us understand how urgent it is. If there are no other signs of sickness I personally would just wait 2 weeks before offering a smaller than usual prey item again. These are just my 2 cents.

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Adult rats is what im giving him always, but lately due to shortage i offered him juvies. Then shifted back to adult(the one that he regurgitate)

I will post pics tomorrow and please advice me if i need to bring him to the vet asap. I think he's emaciated at the moment.


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by MrLang

Everyone... slow down.

The OP lives in the Philippines where the average temperatures and humidity are extremely similar to those found in BPs native habitat http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Climate_of_the_Philippines. Keepers in the Philippines mostly do not use nor do they need to use supplemental heat. The snakes are not one size fits all - please take some real consideration before spouting off the caresheet to someone who has kept their snake successfully for 2 years in the same conditions.

Plenty of breeders use paper substrate and no hides and no hot spot - in fact the biggest breeders out there do this. I've been to NERD many times - they use paper, no hot spot, just a water bowl. Take a deep breath and analyze the details here before jumping down his throat and telling him to rehome the snake...


OP - one thing I noticed is you mentioned feeding an adult rat. Is that the first time you fed one that big? Prior to that, was it always the small pup rat? My thoughts are that the big rat caused the regurgitation and when you fed 'a few days' later the small rat caused it again. This is because the regurgitation is very hard on their system so typically you would wait 2 weeks or so before trying to feed again. If the snake is actively losing weight you may want to bring to the vet to check if it's sick, but otherwise the trip might just stress it out more. If you have a picture it will help us understand how urgent it is. If there are no other signs of sickness I personally would just wait 2 weeks before offering a smaller than usual prey item again. These are just my 2 cents.

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I also keep snakes without a hotspot, however my concern was based on the fact that, when asked about the temps, the OP couldn't tell us anything about them. We are in FL, but keep our entire collection in a climate controlled building, and don't provide hotspots. But if you ask me what my temps are, I'm measuring and can tell you. I would think that measuring the temps so you know what your dealing with is mandatory no matter what method of heat you use. Especially if you are having a health issue.

Do you feed live rats, pre-killed, or frozen/thawed?

If you use frozen/thawed rodents, it seems quite possible that the first regurge could have been caused by an improperly thawed rat (either too cold in the middle still, or too cooked during the warming process). Subsequent regurges can be caused by the first, as mentioned earlier. They need time to rest, heal, and replenish after being sick.

If you feed live, (or pre-killed immediately before feeding) then I don't have much of a guess as to what caused the first one. Maybe the rodent was simply too big, although it'd have to be pretty darned big (relative to the snake) to be rejected by the body so long after having been eaten.

If I were in your shoes, I'd give the snake a full month off from eating. At that age and size, it should be able to skip a few meals without any adverse affects. They don't become emaciated in a moment. It's more likely that it simply appears that way because it's not feeling well. I'd keep an eye on him, make sure he always has fresh water available, and the environment stays clean. After a month of rest, offer a small meal and see if it stays down.

During that time of rest, if the snake really does seem to be losing weight, I'd consult with a vet.

Give you animal three or four weeks before you try to feed again after a regurge.
Also offer something a lot smaller than you would normally feed a couple of time and gradually move back up.

You dont have to get rid of your snake. Some people just have to learn to ask more questions before they express their opinions.

FYI people, some of us heat the whole room. I do use hot spots but i can turn them off if i wanted to up the temp in the room. Expand your knowledge first and then learn to give choice advice.

Again, no matter what method of heat you use, you still need to be measuring your temperatures. And, IMO, you probably also want to have a way to influence the temperatures if for some reason they deviate from the normal acceptable range. Before we switched our collection over to ambient heat only I did a fair amount of research and discussed the idea with a couple of very knowledgeable exotic/herp vets in my area. I will try to sum up the information I was given to the best of my ability. Here it goes.

If you are going to keep your snake without a hotspot and thermal gradient, what your temperatures actually are is more critical. For example, if you provide a hotspot and a thermal gradient, there is a pretty wide range of acceptable temperatures you could use. Your cool side could be anywhere from 78F to 84F and you'd probably be fine. Your hot side could be anywhere from 85F to the low 90s and you'd probably be fine. Because the snake can move a bit to get its core temperature where it needs to be.

But if you only control the ambient temperature, you have to be more precise, because you/the environment you create is having a much greater influence on the snake's core temperature. Make it too hot, and you are setting yourself up for issues ranging from reproductive issues (low sperm count, slugs) all the way up to regurgitation and neurological damage if it gets way too hot. Obviously, if it is way too cold, you may see major problems - RI, poor appetite, etc. Make it slightly too cool, and you are creating a situation where the snake's metabolism, endocrine system, and internal organ function may be impacted. You get decreased immune system function, digestion is affected, the balance of gut flora can get out of whack. So if your temperatures are just slightly too low, you may not see an immediate dramatic problem, but slowly, over time things can go wrong. So for example, it might be fine to keep the snake at 85F, but at 83F you may eventually have issues (including regurgitation, because of the impact on the internal organs, and/or gut flora).

So I really think you need at least a thermometer, so you know what your temps are. Hopefully, I explained that in a way that makes sense.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JLC

Need a lot more information in order to really help.

Here's a list of questions that would help us to help you:
http://ball-pythons.net/forums/showt...t-Questionaire

:)

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bit off topic but love the name, you dont mess with the zohan is a great movie;):):P

I heat my whole room as well with no hotspots and no health or feeding issues.

The first post without any clarification on his husbandry is what caused all the immediate flaming.


I like my Dubstep to go Wop Wop Wop Wop

I would say that if he has been keeping snakes for 7 years, without a problem, then what he is doing is working & he just needs advice with the question asked. The Philippines is nothing like Florida, so comparing them is really a mute point.

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I am not comparing the Philippines to FL. But I think that assuming that his temps are fine because he lives in the Philippines is a big jump. I still think it is relevant to know what his temps are, since he has a problem. And the fact that he doesn't measure them (at least that I can tell, from the information he has provided) is concerning to me. The fact that he has been keeping snakes for 7 years tells us nothing about whether his temperatures are suitable for a ball python. For all we know, he has been keeping a different species with slightly different temperature requirements and this is his first Ball Python.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by FireStorm

I am not comparing the Philippines to FL. But I think that assuming that his temps are fine because he lives in the Philippines is a big jump. I still think it is relevant to know what his temps are, since he has a problem. And the fact that he doesn't measure them (at least that I can tell, from the information he has provided) is concerning to me. The fact that he has been keeping snakes for 7 years tells us nothing about whether his temperatures are suitable for a ball python. For all we know, he has been keeping a different species with slightly different temperature requirements and this is his first Ball Python.

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He said he's been taking care of Ball Pythons for 7 years. I don't know, to me, it appears as though what he has been doing, is working.

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I give up. If anybody else had an issue with regurgitation, we would ask about temperatures. I thought I gave a pretty good explanation of how temperatures that are slightly too low could cause a problem that takes a long time to show up. It is also the cool season in the Philippines, so perhaps the temps in his house are cooler now than normally, and that is part of the issue. We don't know, because we don't know what the temperatures are. I'm not trying to bash the guy, or telling him to rehome his snake, I'm just suggesting he verify his temperatures, as that would be a simple thing to either fix or rule out.

You can't assume the temp in the snake's enclosure is the same as the temp outdoors where the person lives. AC and heating make it nearly impossible to do so. If the AC is blasting and the snake's tub is 60F it doesn't matter if it's 85F outside the person's house.

That's assuming this person has AC/climate control. And in my personal experience, a lot of places in south east Asia don't have AC. But who knows, maybe he does have it.

BPs and retics have pretty close temp requirements. The Philippines is pretty close to where retics are native to. So assuming, they have the same temps, then a BP should be fine, imo.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by satomi325

That's assuming this person has AC/climate control.


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No. It's assuming that we don't know what the temp is in his enclosure. Being from the Phillipines doesn't magically make his temperatures automatically correct anymore than being in Canada automatically means your temps are too low.

There is nothing wrong with asking for the temps in his enclosure if he is asking for advice.

You also have to understand that he might not have the same resources as the rest of us to measure/regulate heat any ways. Which is why he's been doing what he's been doing for the past couple years. And if it wasn't at least adequate, his snakes would be dead long ago.

Not that I know how this guy lives, but I have family in south east Asia, and they don't have reliable electricity, thermostats, or sources that we do in the US/CAN. So I'm taking that into consideration as well.

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We are having a global low temp year right now. Maybe his areas ambients were right on the cusp of being adequate before an now they are simply too low to facilitate proper digestion with his snake.


I like my Dubstep to go Wop Wop Wop Wop

I looked up the weather for Manila, the location the OP lists. Looking at the weather for the next 10 days there, the daytime highs range from 77-83. The lows range from 71-72. IMO, even if the OP doesn't have climate control, it is possible that the temps are on the cool side. The temps in our room range from 84-86 depending on the time of year and time of day. Based on the research I did before we switched to ambient heat only, I would not be comfortable with temperatures below 84F for extended periods without supplemental heat for the reasons I mentioned in my other post. I wish I could find the email from one of the vets we discussed the issue with, but I've tried and can't. It was several years ago, so I'm not sure I still have it.

I think regardless of where you live, ambient temperatures or not, you need a thermostat and humidity gage. When you take an animal out of its natural environment and keep it in captivity you are responsible for replicating that environment as closely as possible. You can't do that if you have no idea what the temp is of that enclosure. So what if it is 90 degrees outside. What if he has his enclosure sitting near a stove or furnace causing the air inside the enclosure to rise above 100 degrees fahrenheit and stay that way all day? He could be slowly cooking his snake and not even know it, and why? Because he has no way of monitoring the temperature inside the enclosure. Whether this guy lives in a tropic climate or a freezing one he needs to have some kind of mechanism telling him what the temp and humidity is in the enclosure.

As for big breeders not using heat sources, hides, etc? I am well aware of that, however, they also have climate controlled facilities, and large breeder racks that are designed to keep the tubs in darkness to make the balls feel secure. That is a totally different situation than having a ball python in a solitary plastic container with no hide, no heat source, and no way to monitor the environment inside the enclosure. End of story.

Now moving on to the OP problem. Lets give him the benefit of the doubt and say his temps and humidity are fine. Then either something is wrong with the rats he's feeding his snake (and one every two weeks is not enough), or the snake has a medical condition and needs to be taken to the vet. Again, usually when a ball goes off feed it is because something is wrong with its environment, and how can he know whether the environment is stable if he has no temp gauge? Where I live it is always 10 degrees hotter inside than out, and some rooms, depending on which way they are facing, are upwards of 20 degrees hotter than outside without AC. His geographic location has nothing to do with whether or not his temps are healthy for his snake.

You have no heat source and you're wondering why you're snake can't digest his food? Come on...


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by alykoz

You have no heat source and you're wondering why you're snake can't digest his food? Come on...

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Really???

Quote:

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Originally Posted by alykoz

not entire true. they are less likely to strike at you when in their enclosure if you feed them in a separate container. Also, feeding them in the same container as their enclosure might make them accidentally swallow substrate along with their meal.

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Look familiar

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TexanLady

I think regardless of where you live, ambient temperatures or not, you need a thermostat and humidity gage.

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A thermostat is only needed IF you are using a heat source.

I'm going to leave this thread before I do something I might regret.
You judgmental new keeper should hope to go SEVEN YEARS before you have any problems.
Got to love the younger generation that thinks they know more that some of us have forgotten....................

Are you telling me you have no way to monitor the temps of your balls? Really? And while I may not have kept snakes for decades upon decades, I have kept them for over ten years, and I've never heard of anyone advising not to monitor temps. And to date the only major problems I've ever had in my reptiles are from the ones I've adopted that were sick, and I adopted them solely to save them from neglectful owners. I take a great deal of pride in providing the best care for my animals that I can, and I refused to be shamed for that. I've seen big collections, small ones, professional ones, and everything in between, and not one of them has simply taken for granted their temps because the temperature outside was in the 90's. Some people do use climate controlled facilities because their collection is far too large to have a heat source or thermostat for every single tub or enclosure, but I don't know any that ignore their temps completely. I don't know one that would advise to ignore temps completely simply because of a geographical location.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by TexanLady

Are you telling me you have no way to monitor the temps of your balls? Really? And while I may not have kept snakes for decades upon decades, I have kept them for over ten years, and I've never heard of anyone advising not to monitor temps. And to date the only major problems I've ever had in my reptiles are from the ones I've adopted that were sick, and I adopted them solely to save them from neglectful owners. I take a great deal of pride in providing the best care for my animals that I can, and I refused to be shamed for that. I've seen big collections, small ones, professional ones, and everything in between, and not one of them has simply taken for granted their temps because the temperature outside was in the 90's. Some people do use climate controlled facilities because their collection is far too large to have a heat source or thermostat for every single tub or enclosure, but I don't know any that ignore their temps completely. I don't know one that would advise to ignore temps completely simply because of a geographical location.

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If you're talking to P.O.P (New Nickname!), he said that you don't need a thermostat if you don't have a heat source. A thermostat is for regulation and a thermometer is for monitoring. Right?
I think you're talking about two different things.

And that first line is going in "out of context".

Heres the bumblebee im talking about. I already placed him in a warm area. Should i bring him to a vet asap? My vet is available mon-wed.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/11/atapezyt.jpghttp://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/11/vunenugu.jpg


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That poor snake is insanely thin. You were right in describing him as emaciated. A vet visit wouldn't hurt to rule out anything that might be contributing to the problem - parasites, etc. I would take him just to be sure. He's looking pretty rough in those pics.

But that poor animal needs food. Not just yet, his digestive system needs some time to heal from the regurges. But after a couple weeks from the last regurge, give him a small meal and if he holds that down, you really need to do your best to feed him weekly to try to get his weight up.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by PitOnTheProwl

Really???
Look familiar

A thermostat is only needed IF you are using a heat source.

I'm going to leave this thread before I do something I might regret.
You judgmental new keeper should hope to go SEVEN YEARS before you have any problems.
Got to love the younger generation that thinks they know more that some of us have forgotten....................

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what are you trying to prove? those posts are completely different from each other. and has nothing to do with OP. let me make this perfectly clear for you. SNAKES (ball pythons) NEED HEAT ON THEIR BELLIES TO METABOLIZE THEIR FOOD. common sense would tell you that if he has no heat source for his snake, even if ambient temps are fine, then that's probably why the poor snake can't keep it down "after a few days". Maybe you should leave.


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The OP asks for advice so we give advice. if he doesn't want to listen to the solutions and keep wondering why it's not working, then guess what? have fun with your starving snake. just because I am a new keeper doesn't mean I haven't done more research than you. call me judgemental because I ask a simple question? my snake is perfectly happy and healthy. and how are yours doing?


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You can absolutely keep ball pythons without a hotspot.

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Originally Posted by alykoz

what are you trying to prove? those posts are completely different from each other. and has nothing to do with OP. let me make this perfectly clear for you. SNAKES (ball pythons) NEED HEAT ON THEIR BELLIES TO METABOLIZE THEIR FOOD. common sense would tell you that if he has no heat source for his snake, even if ambient temps are fine, then that's probably why the poor snake can't keep it down "after a few days". Maybe you should leave.


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You realize Pit is a moderator, right?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DooLittle

You realize Pit is a moderator, right?

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so?


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by alykoz

The OP asks for advice so we give advice. if he doesn't want to listen to the solutions and keep wondering why it's not working, then guess what? have fun with your starving snake. just because I am a new keeper doesn't mean I haven't done more research than you. call me judgemental because I ask a simple question? my snake is perfectly happy and healthy. and how are yours doing?


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Also, while reading and research is good, experience is going to teach you a whole lot more.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by alykoz

what are you trying to prove? those posts are completely different from each other. and has nothing to do with OP. let me make this perfectly clear for you. SNAKES (ball pythons) NEED HEAT ON THEIR BELLIES TO METABOLIZE THEIR FOOD. common sense would tell you that if he has no heat source for his snake, even if ambient temps are fine, then that's probably why the poor snake can't keep it down "after a few days". Maybe you should leave.

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He's being extremely sarcastic towards your post because we had already established that the OP lives in the Philippines and doesn't necessarily require a heat source. They had already begun talking about possible reasons as to why the snake was regurgitating food. And then all of a sudden you come into the thread simply saying the OP's snake was regurgitating and has no heat source and he was still asking why his snake was doing so.

1. If you had read the rest of the posts up until you had posted, you may have realized why the OP has no heat source.

2. As stated above, the OP has expressed that he's been doing this for 7 years and has had no problems up until now, when his snake suddenly regurgitated food twice in a row and has begun to look rather thin.

3. He's also being sarcastic to the other person because they were over-reacting to the lack of information that the OP had first stated with the creation of this thread.

So aside from the constant bickering over the quick and sudden backlash over what people assumed was mistreatment by the OP, can we please get back to talking about possible reasons as to why a snake would suddenly regurgitate its food twice in a row? As we've said, the OP has had zero problems with his snakes for the past 7 years. I do recommend a trip to the vet just because this is unusual behavior and the snake has been fine up until now.


EDIT: Also for future reference:
Thermometer - Used for measuring current temperatures.
Thermostat - Used to regulate a heat source to maintain a constant temperature. Usually used in conjunction with a thermometer, completely useless if there is no heat source to help regulate a constant temperature.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by alykoz

so?


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So? Telling a mod he should "leave"? Ok...

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Originally Posted by DooLittle

Also, while reading and research is good, experience is going to teach you a whole lot more.

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I won't deny that but also the definition of insanity is trying the same things and expecting different results...


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Originally Posted by ViperSRT3g

He's being extremely sarcastic towards your post because we had already established that the OP lives in the Philippines and doesn't necessarily require a heat source. They had already begun talking about possible reasons as to why the snake was regurgitating food. And then all of a sudden you come into the thread simply saying the OP's snake was regurgitating and has no heat source and he was still asking why his snake was doing so.

1. If you had read the rest of the posts up until you had posted, you may have realized why the OP has no heat source.

2. As stated above, the OP has expressed that he's been doing this for 7 years and has had no problems up until now, when his snake suddenly regurgitated food twice in a row and has begun to look rather thin.

3. He's also being sarcastic to the other person because they were over-reacting to the lack of information that the OP had first stated with the creation of this thread.

So aside from the constant bickering over the quick and sudden backlash over what people assumed was mistreatment by the OP, can we please get back to talking about possible reasons as to why a snake would suddenly regurgitate its food twice in a row? As we've said, the OP has had zero problems with his snakes for the past 7 years. I do recommend a trip to the vet just because this is unusual behavior and the snake has been fine up until now.

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I did read through the whole thing. I'm not back lashing I asked a question and yes after I read the whole post I still think it could be a solution. Yeah okay you can keep a ball without a heat source for seven years. I see that. Everyone is going to have their own opinion about how to feed a snake how to heat it and blah blah. I saw that no one was really (and still is I guess) serious about an additional heat source, and based on the OP, I gave my input. I don't need to be bashed as a "new keeper" for asking a simple question. Even if it is a sarcastic moderator.


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by alykoz

I won't deny that but also the definition of insanity is trying the same things and expecting different results...

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The OP has been keeping snakes for 7 years.

If you do something long enough, you will eventually encounter various problems. They happen.

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Originally Posted by 200xth

The OP has been keeping snakes for 7 years.

If you do something long enough, you will eventually encounter various problems. They happen.

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That's fine so the conclusion is take him to the vet and the thread is over haha.


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Maybe it's just me. But I wouldn't be rude or disrespectful to the staff...