Aquarium Solution

The Lucylid fix!

The aquarium mod the solves most tank troubles!

The problem is screen lids do not hold humidly well. The average tank despite being a cost effective home for a ball python is a poor shape. Tall and narrow, the solution to both problems is to lay the tank on its side. One side becomes the bottom and bottom becomes the back.

This leaves a gaping hole in the front. I designed a 'plug' to fit into that space. The construction is quite simple really.


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Materials and tools:
Drill
Drill bits (1/8, 1/4, 5/16 in my case new and sharp)
Sanding block (6 inches) and 120 grit sand paper
Pop rivet gun and a selection of rivets
Plexiglass the size of the tank opening
Fish tank of your choose
3 Micro cam locks (like these size 'A' http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware...=3,41419,41455 )
3 Hinges (like these size 'a' http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware...=3,41241,41250 )
Straight edge and measurement implement (a ruler did double duty for me)
Pen
hot melt glue gun and some glue sticks
Exacto knife

1. Measure the inside of the tank opening one the plastic surround. Be accurate! get as close as you can. From the 'height' (on the upright tank that would be width) subtract 3 inches. I decided on 1/8 plexiglas over heavier it is a bit flexible but I was only using a standard 15 gal tank.

The snake that will call this home is a small female that was a twin and was born with one eye and very small she is doing well now.

I had the plexi cut for me by the store I purchased it from. They used a scrap and squared it up and cut it on a table saw. Table saws work as long as the blade is sharp. I have used a exacto knife and straight edge as well. Just score the surface with a few passes (go easy you can't cut through in one pass don't try someone usually goes wrong.) and then just bend away from the cut and it will snap along the line. Use the straight edge as a guide.

2. Check the fit both bits should fit in but not bind too much. If they do sand the sedge with a mechanical sander (hold the plexus tight to a table with a small bit hanging over the edge) Or use a sanding board and some elbow grease (That is my preference)

3. Lay the 2 sections together aligned edge to edge on a flat scrap or work bench (you will need to drill holes so it will go though the plexi) Mark the position of the hinges 2 isn't firm enough but three works great. I marked about an inch from the edge and then the centre. Make sure they are square and even with each other! Mark and drill the correct size holes.


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4. Mark and drill the ventilation holes I used 1/4 inch use your own discretion for sizes and spacing. You will need a very sharp drill bit (new is best) met for wood and metal. I tried a brad point and it was not good. Go slow take it easy or it will split! If you are in a humid area you will need more if it is very dry less. You know your area, I don't do what you think is best, you can always add more or cover some. If you are planning on running thermostat probes or temp cords now is the time to mark and drill for those too. Alternatively you can notch the edge to take a wire. measure for the micro cam locks, the length of the arm from the edge. The easiest way is remove the arm from the lock and lay it flat on the plexi, mark the hole and then measure the size of the locks shaft and drill the correct size hole again about 2 inches from each edge and the centre.


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5. I used a pop rivet gun to fasten the hinges, most mechanical fasteners will work but pop rivets are easy and work well. I used 1/8 holes and correct sized rivets. Remove plastic film, and fasten the hinges, edge, edge, then centre. Keep the 2 parts of plexi tight together otherwise it will be too big and bind. If you don't do this order it can get slightly out of alignment and make disassembly difficult.

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6. Check the fit again and locks! adjust as needed. Check all the holes, make sure there is nothing sharp if it is use a sharp exacto blade point to scrape the edge down a bit. (place in the hole and gently turn). Check the pop rivets too if they are sharp a blob of hot melt glue will cover them over.

7. This is a bit tricky, preheat a hot melt glue gun. Mark the bottom and 3 inches up the side with a pen. Take a hair drier and heat the lower lip of the tank with it. Add a bead of hot melt and very quickly place the plug in place on the glue line add an extra bead on the outside. Hold in place until the glue cools. Re-check to make sure it closes and the locks work then you are done.

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8. I'd add something on what was the bottom (so you can't see through the tank) and perhaps the sides as well. I am going to use photographs of grassy bits slightly out of focus for thisAdd your preferred heat source (heat lamps won't work well so uth or flexwatt Radiant panels will likely take up too much room unless you have a huge tank.

Be careful you are using a side as a bottom. The smaller tanks have sides the same thickness as the bottom, Bigger tanks have thicker bottoms, The side is intended to hold the weight of water (1gal of water is about 10 pounds) but be careful of adding too much weight. I have added plastic bumpers to the new bottom to hold it off the table it will be used on so the heat source doesn't get too hot. Again use your own discretion.

This is my idea and a quick description of how I made mine. If you choose to make your own I hope that you will read this look at what I have done and adapt it to your own needs. These are not precise plans so please don't fault me if something goes wrongly for you mine works and has been running 1 week at this point with no problems the humidity and temps are good (please use some sort of controller for your heat source!!!) With no misting other than an initial time after set up.

I feel that Tubs work well, but for those of us whom have small collections and want to observe the snakes or at least the 'landscaped' enclosure and don't have a budget that supports a custom purpose build enclosure, that this variation on a traditional tank will solve some of the tank issues the are often encountered.

Alex

Very cool idea! I've been thinking of flipping my tanks on their sides for a while now, but was always worried about nose rubbing on the screen and substrate falling out/ getting caught in the opening area. This seems to solve both of these issues, i will have to get back to you if I decide to go through with these plans!

That's a really cool idea! You should get a patent for it. I can see one of the big reptile companies designing something similar.

Do you have a photo of the whole thing I would love it see it all

Looks great and good workmanship!

What was the total supply cost for this project?

Thanks everyone! I am glad you like the solution it is a fairly simple one I am actually surprised no one has built one commercially yet the problem is how to fasten it to the tank you can't really say just hot glue it... ;)

It wasn't very costly, I actually didn't keep track well. I got the plexiglas free as it was just a scrap but they charged me 10$ to cut it. About 40$ for hardware I had one hinge left from a second project. If you didn't want the door to come off that would cut the cost down by 10 or more. The take apart hinges are very expensive compared to regular, 4$ each. I had drill bits and a most of the bits I needed (bits, sand paper, rivets) The locks are also all the same key I am sure that one lock and 2 turning latches would work but the time to build the other latches for me wasn't worth the 16$ for the 2 extra locks. I didn't try to save money and spent about 50 I am sure if you have more time than I do you could have done it cheaper. I had thought of a 'stitch hinge' that is basically free. I'll draw it out soon I have not tried it but am sure it will work.

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No animal yet she is still in the rack, just making sure everything is alright and stable still week two and every thing seems fine. The best part is the humidity is still at 60%. Just to head off the that gauge isn't accurate I tested it and 5 others the exact same (Cigar humidor gauges) and they are all the exact same and right where they should be during a 'salt test' My partner she is adding decorations still so that isn't finished and we have yet to pick out images for the sides and back but that is in the works too. Oh and Yes there is only one hide Lucy the snake has 2 others but they are still in the rack so one (at least) will move with her.

Oh if you notice one hinge isn't straight, don't do that! It makes it very hard to take the door off and back on again... :(

it looks great

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finished with lucy. She seems to be settled eating and poking about every now and again.

Very cool idea and well executed

This is a great idea!! I have a tank that I was given for free that is 36Lx12wx18h and I've been thinking it would be nice be be able to basically switch the width and heigh measurements. The tank just feels a little skinny as my BP continues to grow and doesnt need to be so tall. This may work great for me!

Are you using any type of heat lamp on the top? Would the heat transfer through the glass? I have to use a heat lamp in the winter because my house it to cold, so I'm wondering if that would work with this setup, or if not having a screen top would maybe fix my heating issue. Any thoughts?

:gj::gj:

Brstin2flames

Thoughts the size of your tank is certainly a a good one 36x18x12 ;) That would be a good size for a large juvenile or adult perhaps a bit big for a small one. Lucy is quite small and this is only a 15 g I think about 24x16x12 I don't remember exactly at the moment it is a bit large but I tried to fill it as much as I could so she would feel secure.

The heat issue is complex, Glass doesn't transfer heat well. My place is quite cold too the room is about 66º or so where this enclosure is. The first part is to make sure (100% SURE) that you are not exposing it to a direct draft. Balls have one large lung and a small not so functional one. The Right lung (big one) runs 2/3 of the body cold drafts (cold air) will quickly drop the snakes core temp and that can lead to all kinds of problems (RI...+++) So that is very important in cold rooms (old house in my case)

The problem is one of heat and air circulation. No I do not thing a CHE or lamp would do much on the glass. I use two UTHs (flexwatt) with two proportional T-stat controls. I know that is expensive and out of reach for some. So failing that a single UTH will work but you need to increase the ambient temps. The first idea would be to drop the top line of vent holes down a bit that will hold some of the warm air from the UTH. The second idea is to increase the ambient temps some with a light inside the enclosure. A FLUORESCENT light. They get warm (more than you would think) but not super hot. I found about 100ºF at the hottest place. Make sure the snake has no way to contact the light for a long time so no pedestals or anything near it. A touch isn't going to burn the snake as long as it is not able to lay against it. That will heat the enclosure a lot. Perhaps it would on the outside too but a heat lamp on glass is just asking for trouble. Large area gentle heat is the way to go. The temps will drop at night as you will need to turn it off. A bit of rock like slate or dark marble fairly large and heavy will warm up during the day (partially over UTH area) and radiate that during the night will help as well. Perhaps a UTH an inch away from the glass might work as well on a rheostat, It will shift with the room temps but cooler at night isn't necessarily bad.
VPI has published a lot of ides on that. More reading...
http://www.vpi.com/publications/the_...hon_care_sheet

It means you have to be diligent on keeping the warn area maintained.

Also insulating the top back and sides can help as well, Photos double sides taped to 'blue' ridged insulation or white pilled insulation work well. (photos look better than just insulation but then I have a 24 inch printer beside me so... It isn't expensive)

That is my current thoughts anyway. Hell a plastic container that is tall narrow and long filled with water and a cheap aquarium heater on the cool side against the glass would likely work too. Just thinking here.
Alex

Thanks so much for all the info!! My BP is about a year and a half old, still small and has plenty of room in my tank, but at some point when I need to upgrade to larger hides I'm afraid my tank is too skinny, there wont be any space left at all! This is a nice option. Thanks again!

Excellent. This could be very usefull and it solve another issue I have. The tank is slate bottomed and there are no approved uth's I could find for slate (mainly lack of testing) this will allow me to attach it to the glass instead of the slate. I think I have all the parts I need lying around anyway. I may make adjustments to you design I will let uou know how it works. Thanks again.

This is great! I just got a 40-45g long tank for my +/-30" BP to grow into (I hate the temp/humidity issues with tanks but this one was free), so I plan on starting this project this weekend! :D

I hope it goes well for you!
Alex

this is great! Haven't you considered selling it online?
If the price is right, I'd buy it, if not, in time i'll build my own :D

Should be a sticky!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by wolfy-hound

Should be a sticky!

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this too

Awesome.

Sweet I like that

ThanK you soo much I read this thread yesterday and had some 1/8 in pg layin around so I went to the lumber yard and picked up everything for 13$ and put it together in about anhour. Took me so long because the plexi kept shattering but over all it looks great!

Wow! That looks fantastic. I'm very impressed.:)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Munizfire

this is great! Haven't you considered selling it online?
If the price is right, I'd buy it, if not, in time i'll build my own :D

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Ahh, no. I don't think so I would go mental trying to get a bunch right. I'll stick to some ideas and leave the plastic work to those who do a better job than I can!!! thanks for the thought however!

Apophis,
It isn't expensive especially if the plexy is around. I found that a new super sharp drill bit made the holes better slow with no pressure. i am glad it worked out in the end. I am thinking on a new hinge idea I'll post that if it works.... :D it is 50/50...

Hinge variation

I have been trying a rope hinge. It seems to be working well I think I m going to use this system with the next lid. I used 1/8 synthetic braided line with 1/8 inch holes that are off set oddly 1/8 with 6 holes. I then melted a 'blob' in one end (4 inches maybe be 6" there is lots of extra but it is only a few cents of line) and the other end I also melted it but wrapped in masking tape (tightly wrapped) to get a clean edge. It needs to be no blobed out as it will never go through the holes it fits but just. I then 'laced it and pulled it tight and tied a over hand know and cut off and sealed the end. Just work the little loose bit back a long the line some. This is a sample bit sand and round over the edges that will be held together by the line. It will run smoother.

Cleaning, well it is synthetic. I intend to use a chlorahexidine or f10 sanitizer and soak the line with it after wiping off any dust. All the hinges took less than 2 hours (four) the first time so if they wear or need to replaced it isn't a huge job.

On a other note if any use the lock types I used I am finding them to be rusting in spots doing it again I'd recommend a good rust paint (let it cure fully) before installing it. It isn't bad but it is there.

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Really really cool! :D

For temps, just using some black foam boards on the sides, top and back wrapped in black duct tape would help to insulate the enclosure. That may buffer the temps, without the use of a CHE. Not positive though... just an idea that I've read about on this forum to help with temps.

It's been working for my temporary aquarium enclosure so far... :)

Great workmanship!

I have to say you are pretty inventive. Thats pretty cool. Great ideas for the aquarium users. Ive been kickin the idea around about doing some sort of acrylic display set up to have in my snake room. But real estate is hard to come by with all the racks.

I try, I do a lot of adapting one thing to something else in my job I saw wood hinges on a box and took that idea and came up with this.

The insulation works well I have used it for years, foam board might not be enough however I use 1/2 inch blue foam usually. I also have a fluorescent light fixture in the enclosure and that helps bump the temps up a lot in the day when it is on. If you have decent insulation it will hold for awhile. I use the insulation only in the winter months.

This enclosure runs dual heating as well hot and cool with a dual probed herpstat to control it. (herpstat 2)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by snake lab

But real estate is hard to come by with all the racks.

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We have one (lonely) leopard gecko left in a 20L. I thought about putting him in a 10 gallon tank on the bottom of the stand and using the 20L for a BP. Laying it on it's side won't gain me any floor space, but I really like the front opening.

This is great! I have a 20g long that has a lid that slides in to the side, so all I would have to do is get a piece of plexi and drill the holes and slide it in from the top! Very creative Kite!

Did this tonight with a 55gal long aquarium. Kind of ashamed that I didn't think about flipping it over on its side. The one I have has 1/4th inch thick glass all the way around so it's fine laying on its side. Thanks for coming up with this great idea. I'll post pics later once I get everything worked out and it's looking all pretty like yours.

I'd really like to see what you have done! Thanks!!

Hey I'm new to the site. And new to snake ownership. I have a project started that involves turning a 30gal. On its side but I've built a wooden enclosure for the tank to slide into. Thinking about putting pebbles in between the glass and wooden enclosure with fake plants on top of that for a realistic backround effect. Once I figure out how to post pictures ill share. I'm putting the poly on it tomorrow.

http://ball-pythons.net/gallery/file...6/imag0032.jpg

http://ball-pythons.net/gallery/file...6/imag0034.jpg

That is an interesting variation nicely done!

Should be done in the next few weeks. I will keep updating as I go. I put the first coat of poly on the other night and ill be putting the second on tonight.

What a great job! Simple and elegant. (I may be able to keep a couple of these in my living room where space a little tighter if I get addicted to BP's like I think I will) We will see how the first one goes but this design looks great!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by kitedemon

On a other note if any use the lock types I used I am finding them to be rusting in spots doing it again I'd recommend a good rust paint (let it cure fully) before installing it. It isn't bad but it is there.

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This happens to alot of locks. Even the ones on my Boaphiles will rust. Normally, I will occassionally take the lock apart and scrub it with a steel wire brush and either gun oil or WD-40. Then I will soak it in Isopropyl alcohol to remove the oil before putting it back together.

I used a version of this tank mod to convert a 75 gallon aquarium into a display cage for my IJ Carpet Python. I wasn't real comfortable about laying it on it's side because of the size and weight of the 1/4" glass, so I just made the locking plexiglass lids to fit the top.

The locks I used clear nail polish on the newest version this has worked well. The sides bothered me a bit until I recalled the weight of water.

75 gal of water is 626 pounds. The needs to hold that in so any spot weight of 30 pounds should be no problem more if it is spread out. I have never had this kind of mass inside a snake set up I don't think there would be any problem with it on its side. the tank is no where the weight of the water it is designed to hold.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by kitedemon

The locks I used clear nail polish on the newest version this has worked well. The sides bothered me a bit until I recalled the weight of water.

75 gal of water is 626 pounds. The needs to hold that in so any spot weight of 30 pounds should be no problem more if it is spread out. I have never had this kind of mass inside a snake set up I don't think there would be any problem with it on its side. the tank is no where the weight of the water it is designed to hold.

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I will definitely try the nail polish. Thanks for the tip... :gj:

The nail polish has been in since 9/21/11 so hard to say for sure it works perfectly. I was not planning on mentioning it until I was more certain it worked for a long time. The ones I double coated are better than the single and the one that got a light sanding (300 grit) is the best.

I hope it works out for you so far so good. Let me know if you find some better combination perhaps it can be improved more.

I just got permission from my friend Tim Slotke to post the photos of the displays he's made for friends using aquariums. These are nice!

You can spend a few grand on a custom made display from a caging company... Or you can collect a bunch of super cheap/free tanks from CL and spend just a few hundred to make your own display wall.

These are 20 longs..
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/11/19/vyhy4u6e.jpg

These are 10 gal..
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/11/19/a7eda6e9.jpg

Plexi glass on top or front. Is there really a difference? :confusd:

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Originally Posted by JeRMz

Plexi glass on top or front. Is there really a difference? :confusd:

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Ease of cleaning... If you only plan to do this to one or two small tanks then doing it to the top would be fine. If you're doing it to a 29 gal or above, think about the hassle of reaching down into such a deep enclosure trying to get stuff out, trying to remove bedding, wipe the bottom, etc.. What a pain. Especially if the tank is sitting on a shelf or table which is more than a few feet above floor level.

Heat and humidity rise so a solid top means easier to heat and easier to hold humidly. It is as good as a plastic enclosure better at holding temps than my rack or single tubs are by quite a long shot.

Ill not use metal hinges again for this type of project. The rope is better in every way and a fraction of the effort and cost.

Hi,

I'm interested in buying hinges from here http://www.spep.com/ , maybe this ones: http://www.spep.com/Blog/Take-ApartHinge.html, but I don't know if it's a good option. Can you recommend me a different model/contractor to work withhttps://ball-pythons.net/forums/images/icons/icon5.png

Thanks in advance,https://ball-pythons.net/forums/images/icons/icon12.png
Randall