Help?

Ok so I have some snake experience, a corn snake, burmese python and then a ball python. Unfortunately I had to rehome them all 2 yrs ago because I had a baby on the way and my wife didnt feel safe, mostly because the burm was 8 ft and growing quickly. Whatever, long story short I was robbed of my hobby and my homies. Now, a week or so ago I accepted a free BP from somebody on craigslist because he had to move. 3 yr old normal, about 3 ft long in a 10g tank living on washcloths and newspaper with no water and just a plastic log for a hide. The guy said he was hibernating (BS)and had not eaten in 3 months. Took him home, set him up. Bought a 29g tank (30x12x12), some substrate, a night and day timer plus lights, ceramic heater modified a water bowl blah blah blah. He came around, moved a bit so I bought him some food. He refused to eat over and over and over again. I noticed that he was a little hazy in the eyes so I soaked him, left him alone and today soaked him again and he just peeled as I was taking him back to his tank. Post shed I tried to feed him...not happening. Night time, tried feeding him. NOT happening. Why is he not eating, and wtf do I do?? I have never ever had a finicky eater in all my snakes. Im also having trouble keeping his humidity up...Im using Aspen ( which dries everything up) mixed with repti-bark(which has never failed me in maintaining humidity) with sphagnum moss in his warm side hide and throughout the log and random spots. Not over kill but enough to hopefully have an effect. I mist as well, but its just not happening. Ive put foil on the screen and nothing. SO help me...why wont he eat and why does my humidity suck a fat one?

Glad to hear that you took him in, and are going to take good care of him. The first thing you need to do is to make sure your husbandry is within acceptable levels. Your hot side needs to be around 90 - 92 F. Your cool side needs to be around 80 - 82 F. Sorry to say, but one of the reasons you are having so much difficulty with humidity is because you are using overhead heating (ceramic heat emitter.) To increase humidity, I suggest switching to cypress mulch. Make sure that it is pure cypress mulch. This stuff holds humidity great without molding. Then, you need to cover most of the top of the tank with something; such as, plastic wrap, tin foil, or plexiglass. This will trap the humidity. It is highly suggested to use an under-tank heater. You will need to control this with either a thermostat or a rheostat. A digital thermostat is recommended, because it will keep your temperature to whatever degree you set it to. You can also use a larger water bowl, and change water more often. You will need a hygrometer to measure your humidity, and try to keep your humidity above 50%, and closer to 60%. You will want to bump it up to 70% during shed cycles.

Once you have your husbandry right, you can then worry about him refusing to eat. You have to realize why ball pythons go off feed. The most common reason is stress. The next is that they just are not hungry. Lastly is that they may be sick. Stress can be caused by many things; such as, too much visibility, inadequate hides, improper heat / humidity, loud music, and too much handling. To fix the visibility, I suggest covering the sides and back of the enclosure with something. You could use just about anything. A forum member suggested using the background images for fish tanks. This is a great idea, because it serves its purpose, and looks nice too. You also need to make sure that your ball pythons has two identical hides. One hide for each side. The hides should be dark and tight. Half logs are no good, because they are open on both ends.

Once your ball feels more secure, and has proper heat and humidity, then he will likely go back on food with no issues. I do suggest feeding him smaller meals to get him back on food; such as, a large mouse or rat pup. I also suggest feeding him live.

Hope this helps, and good luck!

Hmm... I have the thermometer and hygrometer set up, as well as a UTH. I do not have it hooked up to a thermo/rheostat though. Large water bowl, check. Hides on the hot warm and cool side check. Thanks for all your help, I guess hes stressed. Ill cover up the sides of the tank for sure.

I agree with what Eddie said, but I'll add a few things. Even if everything was perfect at his old home and in his new home, the stress of moving and acclimating to the new home could put him off food for a little while. A lot of people suggest waiting a week after bringing a new BP home before offering it food for that reason.

Also, if he refuses, do not continue to offer food. That can be a source of stress too. Offering one time every 5-7 days will be enough.

Ok will do, I messed up and I feel like an amateur for holding him while he was shedding but his previous owner sucks. Ill try the mice again in 5 days but they really stink to keep...

Yeah having live mice around isn't all that fun. But yeah, I am sure if you give him some alone time he will eat for you in no time. :) :gj:

Yeah im just gonna let him chill for a couple days, Ive figured out my humidity issue, and he looks happy with his set up, hes using all hides. The moonlight lamp also helped a lot because hes more active at night now.