New to balls got some issues
My first snake and I will admit I jumped into it. Not good but here I am and have some issues.
I bought a regular ball python from a pet store and do not know where it came from. It is probably 14 inches. I have had him two weeks he will not eat and rhas started to strike when I try to pick him up. I have tried to feed him outside the cage with no success.
The tank is a 20 long with paper shredded as bedding, a heat pad under one half. The readings on the temperature read about 80 and the humidity is at 60.
Why is he so aggressive?
Re: New to balls got some issues
Quote:
Originally Posted by
baller900
My first snake and I will admit I jumped into it. Not good but here I am and have some issues.
I bought a regular ball python from a pet store and do not know where it came from. It is probably 14 inches. I have had him two weeks he will not eat and rhas started to strike when I try to pick him up. I have tried to feed him outside the cage with no success.
The tank is a 20 long with paper shredded as bedding, a heat pad under one half. The readings on the temperature read about 80 and the humidity is at 60.
Why is he so aggressive?
First off, read these care sheets please.
http://www.newenglandreptile.com/CareBall.html
http://ball-pythons.net/modules.php?...warticle&id=59
http://vpi.com/publications/the_ball_python_care_sheet[/QUOTE]
They will walk you through proper husbandry and set ups. It sounds like your cage is too cool, and he is very young and stressed.
A UTH needs to be controlled by a thermostat or rheostat. The hot spot hide really should be at 90-93, and the cool hide should read from 80-83.
An accurite is a thermometer with a probe that can be placed on the cool end, and the probe goes into the hot spot hide.
Make his enclosure as "full" as possible, since he is a baby and his first instinct is to hide constantly to avoid being food for hungry predators.
He needs 2 snug fitting hides, one on each temperature gradient.
Once you have his husbandry 100% correct, you need to leave him alone for at the LEAST, a week. Perhaps 2 is even better. You will not bother him during this time except to give him new water or spot clean urates or poo.
Correct that, and we can talk about how to start short handling sessions after the 2 week settling period.
All of this is to ensure that he is going to adjust well to his new home, and be a consistent eater!
Handling is for our benefit, not theirs.
It's always best to get them eating consistently for 4 or 5 meals before starting to handle a lot.
