40 Gallon to big?

so..
hopefully i'll be getting my bp in a few days.
but i wanna make sure i have everything
before getting him

i have a 20 gallon i believe maybe a 15
and a 40 gallon

which one should i use?

i've been reading
and have ideas on everything
i need

but just in case
maybe you could give me
an idea or a list
of what i need

If the BP is sub-adult to adult (in other words, if it's big enough) and you're willing to take the time to insulate the larger tank then by all means, go for it. I was looking at putting my larger girl in a 40gal breeder, but a friend took her, so that never happened.

Most people will say an adult BP will be fine in a 20, but my gal's big butt was definitely not fine in a 20. -lol- Use your judgement. Just remember that they like tight spaces so even if the animal is large you should fill up the tank with hides and foliage and whatnot.

Large tanks are fine as long as:

* You insulate it properly (i.e. maintain proper temp gradient and humidity levels).
* You provide the necessary hiding areas.

Large tanks are really for display. And by that I mean to display everything else but the snake since they'll be in their hide 99% of the time.

A 40 can be used (still use 1) but be prepared to have issues with humidity and keeping the temps up. Not sure where you live but I'm from NY and we have like 30% humidity in the winter and it was a pain getting temps/humidity where it needed to be. If I were in your shoes Id can the idea of using any of those and go with a 66qt snap top rubbermaid for a baby or 96qt snap top for a sub-adult/adult... I have pics in my gallery of my set ups if you wanna check em out. When I first got into snakes I had a 20L and a 40 like you... Spent a butt load of money trying to get humidity/temps where they need to be and in the long run ended up switching to plastic tubs... the 66qt and 96qt are roughly the same size as a 20 and 40gal.

Personally I've got Furio in a 40 gallon breeder and it's a pain in the you know what at first but you'll learn a few tricks along the way with heat and humidity and you'll also get any questions you could possibly had answered right here on BP.net. Crowd the tank so he feels secure wherever he's at. In this case I would say go with the one you want but the 40gal will take some work.

Supply Check list

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1 Enclosure

Your enclosure should not be too big the bigger the enclosure the more stress you will cause to your Ball Python, remember that in their natural environment they spend 70 to 80 % of their time in a tight termite mount.

You can use a glass tank, keep in mind that is you do it will be harder to control temperatures and humidity.

If you get a baby you will only need a 10 gallons to start with and if you chose an adult a 30/40 gallons is all you will ever need. Use the rule of thumb the enclosure should be 2/3 of the length of your Ball Python.

A lot of people chose plastic tubs (Sterilite or Rubbermaid), which allow an easier control of the temperatures and humidity and make Ball Pythons feel secure.

When it comes to plastic tubs here are the sizes you will need according to your Ball Python's size (Remember you will need a drill or solder wand to make holes for airflow)

Up to 500 grams – 15 Quarts (17"L x 11 1/8"W x 6 3/8"H)

Up to 1500 grams – 32 Quarts (23 1/2"L x 16 1/4"W x 6 3/8"H)

Above 1500 grams – 41 Quarts (34 3/4"L x 16 1/2"W x 6"H)

No matter which enclosure you chose remember to secure the lid as Ball Pythons are real escape artists.

1 UTH (Under Tank Heater)

Here are some products that will allow you to provide belly heat and achieve the required gradient temperatures in your enclosure: Ultratherm Heat Pads, T Rex Cobra Pads and Flexwatt Heat Tape (Unlike some other they do not stick permanently to the enclosure).

1 Thermostat

Regardless of the device you chose to provide heat you will need a thermostat, this will allow you to maintain proper temperatures and avoid over-heating.

I would highly recommend you to invest in a digital thermostat such as Ranco ETC-111000 and Johnson on the lower end, or Herpstat Digital Proportional Thermostat and Helix on the higher end, they might seem expensive but they are worth it. Keep in mind that if you get a cheap thermostat like the ESU 1 outlet or 3 outlets starting at 25 dollars you will get what you paid for, considering how long your BP will live you will want to invest in something durable, reliable and safe.

2 Hides

Provide one hide on each side of the enclosure. Ideal hides must be dark, tight (All side touching your Ball Python's body) and identical so your Ball Python does not chose between security and thermo-regulation. In my opinion the best hides are ESU/Zilla Creature Cubbyholes.

1 Water Dish

Contrary to what many believe the water dish does not have to be big enough for your Ball Python to soak (Healthy, mite free BP rarely soak).

1 Thermometer/Hygrometer

When it comes to temperatures and humidity you cannot guess you MUST know. (Avoid stick and dial devices as they are not accurate). To get an accurate reading I would recommend a digital device such as Acu-Rite Hygrometer/Thermometer that can be found at Walmart for 12$ or Zilla Terrarium Hygrometer/Thermometer.

Substrate

Here are some substrates that can be used in your BP's enclosure: Newspaper - Paper Towel - Aspen - Repti-bark - Cypress Mulch etc. DO NOT use pine or cedar bedding as they contain phenols that can be toxic to your snake.

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Basics

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Temperatures

You will need to provide your Ball Python with a warm side between 90-94 F (32.5-34.5 C) degrees and a cool side between 80-84 F (27-29 C) degrees.

Humidity

You should provide your Ball Python with a constant 50%-60% humidity level. This level can be increased to 70% during the shedding period if necessary.

Feeding

Young BP can be fed a prey slightly smaller then the girth size once every 5 to 7 days.

Adults can be fed a small rat (4 weeks old 45-75 grams) or 3 to 4 mice (whichever work best and/or is more convenient for the keeper) once a week.

Remember if you chose to feed live you must always supervise feeding and never let a prey unattended with your snake.

Do not handle your Ball Python for the next 48 hours following feeding. If handle to soon after a meal this could lead to regurgitation.

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