Breeding question

Hello, Ive been thinking of breeding my male and female balls together, but just had a few questions and concerns.
My male is in great health, feeding great, not (seemingly) stressed at all, and I would say that hes already to go!
But my femals kind of shut down.. Shes still at a good weight to breed, but she hasnt taken any prey items in a few weeks.. Do you think that it may just be because she wants to breed NOW- or should I wait untill she's eating again?
Please reaply soon, I would apreciate it- Ive read some very good advice on this site!!

If she's at a good breeding weight then she's ready! :) A lot of females will stop eating during breeding season.

Good luck!

is cycleling a must its just a have new breeeding size female coming sunday and my pastel is ready to just that nether of there temps have been droped so what do u think

any views welcome

There's successful ball breeders that cycle temps regularly, and there are successful breeders breeders that don't cycle temps at all.

I used to think it was climate related, for example I noticed a lot of people at lower latitudes said they didn't cycle temps, whereas those up north did. There have been so many exceptions to that now that I'm not sure what the deal is.

I think all that proves is that the temperature cycle is just one part of many variables in the breeding equation. The changing seasons bring other atmospheric changes that ball pythons are sensitive to, besides temperature.

But to answer your first question, a lot of breeders cut back on the females feeding during the breeding season to keep them focused on breeding, not eating. Also, a female that has been constantly pumped full of food throughout the season won't have much room for her follicles (what eggs are before they are eggs) to mature. If there isn't room for them to grow past a certain point - they resorb and you never get any eggs.

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Originally Posted by Simplicity734

Hello, Ive been thinking of breeding my male and female balls together, but just had a few questions and concerns.
My male is in great health, feeding great, not (seemingly) stressed at all, and I would say that hes already to go!
But my femals kind of shut down.. Shes still at a good weight to breed, but she hasnt taken any prey items in a few weeks.. Do you think that it may just be because she wants to breed NOW- or should I wait untill she's eating again?
Please reaply soon, I would apreciate it- Ive read some very good advice on this site!!

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Remember that putting two sexually mature snakes together is only a teeny, tiny part of the decision to breed. Before you do make sure you are ready to incubate the eggs properly and house the offspring until you can sell or find home for them. I'm not suggesting you don't breed your snakes, just that you consider if you are ready to do so this particular year.

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Originally Posted by Snakes_in_a_shed

is cycleling a must its just a have new breeeding size female coming sunday and my pastel is ready to just that nether of there temps have been droped so what do u think

any views welcome

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I wouldn't worry so much about whether cycling is a "must" but rather that proper quarantine is a "must".

I wouldn't worry so much about whether cycling is a "must" but rather that proper quarantine is a "must".[/QUOTE]

dont worry she will be qauarintined for like all my snakes for minamum of six weeks

id weird i fell like a newby agin well i supose i am with BPs

another question
i know almost all bp breeders start about october but is that set in stone ro is it just a another varaible that can be changed

thanks for your al your answers btw very much apreciated

I would really stretch out the quarantine period. To 60-90 days. This is the accepted quaranting period with those in the know. From here on in, this is the procedure I will use. A fecal should be done to rule out internal parasites, and definately that long of a quarantinde would show you if the snake had mites. I would use a light substrate suchas paper-towel, and treat any newcomers' cages with Provent-a-mite, no matter who you get them from.
No, cycling is not a must. There are bigger breeders who don't. I had my first successful season last year without cycling.

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Originally Posted by Ginevive

I would really stretch out the quarantine period. To 60-90 days. This is the accepted quaranting period with those in the know. From here on in, this is the procedure I will use. A fecal should be done to rule out internal parasites, and definately that long of a quarantinde would show you if the snake had mites. I would use a light substrate suchas paper-towel, and treat any newcomers' cages with Provent-a-mite, no matter who you get them from.
No, cycling is not a must. There are bigger breeders who don't. I had my first successful season last year without cycling.

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thanks for all your input guy i am prety new as regards to bp but as for qarintine i have foud 60 das as a minimum and a full fecal exam enough

of course any sign of any thing at all andi will extend but touch wood i havent brought any thing much more serious than mites but since the first time i had any thing coming with mites i know dose any new animal for mites and cage as a precaution

once agin thanks for teh answers and advide


just a little question Ginevive iam not taking a shot at you but what made you change you positon so quickley u seemed.....sure of your position

On quarantine? I definately recommend a QT of 60 days. The one that I practiced, involved the snake being in different locations (its former home for 30 days that I know of.. then 30 days here.) If it were a snake that I had not observed as I did, it would be getting the 60 days alone. But from here on in, after much thought, it's 60 days for any new additions. Just to be safe.